I was looking at the sights on TOW and notice they have brass, silver, and Steel. I wanted to check with you guys. Do you need a special type of solder for brass sight to steel barrel? I got some of the low temp stuff. Or is it tin and stick like normal?
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Soldering sights?
- Thread starter Swamp Rat
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matt denison
54 Cal.
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"Or is it tin and stick like normal?"
You got it. Be sure the barrel is the same temp as the sight. I don't heat the sight, I heat the barrel and let the heat carry to the sight. When the solder flows you're done.
You got it. Be sure the barrel is the same temp as the sight. I don't heat the sight, I heat the barrel and let the heat carry to the sight. When the solder flows you're done.
Correct. Clean well, tin the base of the sight is good if you want to do that, but I don't.
I clean the sight base & barrel, smash a piece of solder & sandwich it between the sight & barrel,
put this bent hacksaw blade on it to hold it secure Exactly Where I want it, put the heat
to it. Photo is a Underlug, but do it same way with a sight.
I use Silver Bearing Solder from Brownells. And I use solder Paste on the metals to be soldered.
Note: If it don't solder & the flux burns, stop & start over. More heat will not fix it. Once you
see the solder flow all the way around the sight, take the heat away.
Keith Lisle
I clean the sight base & barrel, smash a piece of solder & sandwich it between the sight & barrel,
put this bent hacksaw blade on it to hold it secure Exactly Where I want it, put the heat
to it. Photo is a Underlug, but do it same way with a sight.
I use Silver Bearing Solder from Brownells. And I use solder Paste on the metals to be soldered.
Note: If it don't solder & the flux burns, stop & start over. More heat will not fix it. Once you
see the solder flow all the way around the sight, take the heat away.
Keith Lisle
Thanks Keith...learned something new today that I can use real soon.
:grin: :bow:
LD
Look up silver bearing solder paste on eBay, the stuff in a syringe, bar none the easiest stuff to use out there.
When Birddog6 says "put the heat to it", he is not talking about directing the flame of the torch right at the small part.
I'm sure he's putting the heat to the big part. In this case, the barrel.
You also do not want to point the heat at the barrel (or big part) right next to the joint.
Heat the barrel by pointing the flame at least 1 inch away from the part being soldered.
As the barrel heats up the heat will move to the soldering area without overheating anything and without destroying the flux.
It takes a while for this to happen so don't be impatient.
One minute it will look like nothing is happening and then suddenly the liquid solder will appear all around the joint.
When this happens, just remove the heat and sit back and let nature cool it off. Do not be tempted to splash water on it until the liquid solder has totally solidified.
Have fun.
I'm sure he's putting the heat to the big part. In this case, the barrel.
You also do not want to point the heat at the barrel (or big part) right next to the joint.
Heat the barrel by pointing the flame at least 1 inch away from the part being soldered.
As the barrel heats up the heat will move to the soldering area without overheating anything and without destroying the flux.
It takes a while for this to happen so don't be impatient.
One minute it will look like nothing is happening and then suddenly the liquid solder will appear all around the joint.
When this happens, just remove the heat and sit back and let nature cool it off. Do not be tempted to splash water on it until the liquid solder has totally solidified.
Have fun.
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Last edited by a moderator:
You are correct. I should have been more clear on that. I feel the best thing to do is practice on a piece of iron pipe, steel tubing, or conduit.
I find that most people want to heat the barrel too fast & keep on heating it. :shake: You kind of sneak up on the temp..... Don't rush it, and all of a sudden the solder will liquify. As soon as that happens, back the torch away. Have your solder handy & if you see it needs more push the solder on the joint right then.
Also, I clean the oil out of the barrel in that area before I solder, as it will burn the oil & it cam be a bugger to get out. :slap:
MOST IMPORTANT to oil the bore well After you solder it. In fact I oil it couple times for a couple days afterwards. :thumbsup:
Keith Lisle
I find that most people want to heat the barrel too fast & keep on heating it. :shake: You kind of sneak up on the temp..... Don't rush it, and all of a sudden the solder will liquify. As soon as that happens, back the torch away. Have your solder handy & if you see it needs more push the solder on the joint right then.
Also, I clean the oil out of the barrel in that area before I solder, as it will burn the oil & it cam be a bugger to get out. :slap:
MOST IMPORTANT to oil the bore well After you solder it. In fact I oil it couple times for a couple days afterwards. :thumbsup:
Keith Lisle
Keith & Zonie,
Shouldn't this be the mantra for all tasks, for anybody who works on traditional muzzleloaders?
LD
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now here's the 'dumb question' du jour: I have a barrel which is as yet unfinished. I have an underlug which will have to be attached by solder, but I'd very much like to fire blue the barrel.
can I fire blue it, get the spot for the underlug down to bare metal, and solder on the part, or will this ruin the finish?
any help will be greatly appreciated!
can I fire blue it, get the spot for the underlug down to bare metal, and solder on the part, or will this ruin the finish?
any help will be greatly appreciated!
The bluing is an oxide that needs about 700 degrees F to create.
Being an oxide it needs to be totally cleaned off down to the bare metal before solder will stick to the surface.
The lower temperatures needed to soft solder won't have any effect on the blued areas of the barrel.
Being an oxide it needs to be totally cleaned off down to the bare metal before solder will stick to the surface.
The lower temperatures needed to soft solder won't have any effect on the blued areas of the barrel.
I fire blue a lot of high art guns and the temp to fire blue is about 575°F You can solder on lugs with solder that has a melting point of 430° and it probably won't change the finish. I wouldn't take the chance myself. The biggest problem is this. The flux for the solder will instantly take off the blued finish. I don't see how it is possible to solder the lug on without getting the flux on the blue portion to some degree. There are other ways to attach lugs and sights.
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thanks! I have a bit of barrel from another project ... looks like time for a test run!
(p.s. - sorry to hijack the thread)
(p.s. - sorry to hijack the thread)
