Something You Don't See Often

[Ironoxide]

I had my friend look at it, and he doesn't believe the barrels were cut, and are original

I need to repair the cracked stock, so I need to tear it down. I had to drill out the forward lock plates screw. I don't think this gun has ever been apart by the looks of it. I also have a busted main spring on one as I suspected. I noticed there is two marks inside the lock DR, and M

View attachment 85114

Great pictures. Unfortunately I can't see those marks. Maybe when they are clean they're more apparent.

Regarding cleaning I'm not an expert by any means (I restored only one original), but I watched a lot of YouTube so I feel qualified to give advice ;-)

I would disassemble the locks as far as possible without moving metal and boil them in distilled water (may be rain water, or if you have very soft tap water this will do to) for at least an hour.

I use my ultrasonic cleaner for such boiling. I set it at 90 deg C and after an hour all rust is converted to dust and bluing. You can then wipe the parts with 0000 steel wool to make surfaces look good.

This method doesn't remove any extra metal and is considered a conservation technique as opposed to various acid based rust removers or electrolysis.

I'll look up DR and M in my books.

 

[Feltwad]

Those locks are not of the early type they are late for percussion and were carried through to the pinfire and breech loader. To clean them give them a good overnight soak with a rust solvent and with a good spring vice remove the main spring ,remove the percussion hammers then the bridle tumbler and sear and clean using a wire brush and fine polish each using a smooth wet and dry making sure the bites on the tumbler are clean and any caked grease removed so the sear has a good contact. Replace the parts making sure the internal of the lock plate is also clean and lightly oil some use a grease but this can gung up the tumbler bites . Cleaning the lock internal is just like fine turning a lock there should be no rough rust areas on any of the lock internals .I have used this method of cleaning old locks for many decades and if done right will give many years of trouble free service
Feltwad

 

[Ironoxide]

I went through all the makers with initials starting D, R and M, but I haven't found any that would mark with those letters. Most gun maker marks are more elaborate, like a crown over some letters, letters in a circle, special font etc. This makes me think those are lock maker marks, or quality inspection marks.

Liege at the time had thousands of shops that made parts and there were many "gun makers" who put together those parts under their name and marketed them. Not unlike in a modern supply chain.

Also if Feltwad says not to boil the locks I concur. He has a lot more experience.

 

[Mulebrain]

Thanks for all the advice folks, shale head. I think getting a replacement main spring is gonna be a pain. Anyone have any leads on where to locate one this size, or someone who can make it?

 

[Feltwad]

Thanks for all the advice folks, shale head. I think getting a replacement main spring is gonna be a pain. Anyone have any leads on where to locate one this size, or someone who can make it?

Replacing this type of mainspring can be difficult it has a double function not only to work the complete mechanism but also to cock the sear For the spring to function properly it has two different thickness the part of the main spring that operates the sear leg is not has strong has the part that operates the mechanism and are prone to breakage if not made and tempered right.. If both legs of the spring were the same to release the sear would be a major pull for the job done . This type of spring making is a craft and even then they break on the first cocking of the gun , my advice is find an original lock off a dismantled gun it could be better than having one made and less expensive
Feltwad

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Replacing this type of mainspring can be difficult it has a double function not only to work the complete mechanism but also to cock the sear For the spring to function properly it has two different thickness the part of the main spring that operates the sear leg is not has strong has the part that operates the mechanism and are prone to breakage if not made and tempered right.. If both legs of the spring were the same to release the sear would be a major pull for the job done . This type of spring making is a craft and even then they break on the first cocking of the gun , my advice is find an original lock off a dismantled gun it could be better than having one made and less expensive
Feltwad

Hi Feltwad, I'm in the middle of just such a spring for a late M/L target pistol. As springs and things I still make a few different types. Even a purdey self opening unmentionable recently. Don't want to do that too often, LOL. O.D.

 

[Mulebrain]

Finding a spare lock for parts will be like a needle in a haystack. These locks are twice the size of regular back action locks.

 

[Mulebrain]

If anyone knows anyone, who can copy a spring, I am all ears??