Source for period fabric

[paddymurphy]

I looked through the threads and could not find one on this topic. I did some searching on line but trying to sort out if one companies osnaburg or linen is period correct or not is a pain.

Period would be early 1800's.

Also, are the patterns at jedediah-starr hc?

Thanks

 

[asalufa]

I get most of my linen from fabric-store.com. I know a number of reenactors that frequent them. They have good prices, and I've never had a problem with an order from them.

For the harder to find fabrics... well, I'd avoid most of the major fabric suppliers. I have seen good looking products that appear to be suitable from Burnley and Trowbridge Co. and Period Fabrics, but I haven't actually ordered from either of them. Burnley and Trowbridge in particular seems to provide a fair bit of info on why they think each fabric is period appropriate. Period Fabrics provides less detail on historical accuracy, but gives you enough info to make your own judgement. Of course, none of this specialty marketing makes their products inexpensive...

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I too am a fabrics-store customer, and have been very pleased with the fabric.

Fabrics can be a touchy subject with some people. I know of those who boast that their wool in their coat is the same as that used 240 years ago... which is balderdash but they will pay a pretty penny for it anyway..., for although the company where the wool was purchased may be the same as 240 years ago... the dyes are chemical, and the machines are automated, and there is nylon in their "100%" wool. But.. I digress...

Woolrich makes good wool, especially for civilians, and Continental or Germanic soldiers, while the correct British uniform colors are tougher to find.

As for patterns, I'd shy away from jedediah-starr. Most of the patterns are Eagle View brand..., they are simple and they will work, but they are not very good. Some of the other patterns are simply wrong. The JSTC "Rifleman's Hunting Frock" shows a fellow with a caped hunting shirt... not correct for F&I in any way. For Fur-Trade, for a fellow from the Eastern States, sure.

If you want to be efficient and actually save some mone...especially if you are going to make something out of expensive wool, I'd look for JP Ryan patterns, and I'd make a test garment out of poly/cotton first, check the fit, and adjust the pattern to my body, THEN I'd cut the wool. JP Ryan patterns are on nice quality paper and can be used many times, unlike a modern "simplicity" pattern or such... that is on crepe paper, and gets trashed with the project. :wink:

LD

 

[Luke MacGillie]

LD,

I think you should take a look at the latest information on Hunting Shirts. We do know that the term existed in Augusta County VA as early as the 1760 probate inventory of a guy who died in 59. We still do not know what a Hunting shirt looked like at that time, but to say that Hunting shirts are not correct for F&I is no longer correct......

A best guess estimate of what they looked like would be that they are longer than the waist length Continental Army issue HS's but for me personally, I would still use one that is caped, fringed with its own cloth(IE not manufactured or contrasting color), split down the front and of course with pleated sleeves.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

There have been a few specialty fabric suppliers for such things. We have such a specialty weaver here in this little berg. He made a business out of copying historical fabrics for museums etc, The stuff is so close to originals that the cost is simply out of reach of simple reenacting.

I have purchased Osnaburg from Gohn Bros of Middlebury Indiana, and Amish mail order place. Since then I found sources for such things here in Central PA. We have a large Amish community and because of them we have some super huge fabric stores. (As I recall, Osnaburg itself is actually a tow-jute mix of about 28 threads per inch)

There had been a place outside of Wash DC, called G-Street Fabrics. They catered to museums, historical sites, movie consultants, etc. Even had a sizeable library of books about clothing from ancient days to 1900s. along with patterns for everything from Cave man to Flapper.

Short of hiring a weaver to hand make what you want, you will have to make some allowances for modern stuff.

Because we have so many quilters in this area, I sometimes luck out at yard sales, church bazaars and farm auctions, finding actual linen by the yard. Picked up a few yards at a church bazaar a couple months ago for $2.00

 

[Rod Lassey]

Cloth...
http://www.96storehouse.com/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
http://www.eatonhilltextiles.com/index.htm
http://www.historicaltextiles.com/index.html
http://wmboothdraper.com/
http://www.carolinacalicoes.com/framed.html
http://www.bnbtart.com/index.html


Patterns...
http://www.pastpatterns.com/
http://www.kannikskorner.com/


Rod

 

[paddymurphy]

Thanks for the info and links. One of the places I found was fabric-store.com. Just wasn't sure.

I also understand about the wool. I learned that the hard way courtesy of the ex-wife. I offered to buy her silk for a new dress (SCA). She asked how about wool. Knowing nothing I said sure thinking it would be cheaper. Thirty bucks a yard later I had learned a lesson.

I am some what, but not overly concerned about HC/PC as I am doing fur trade and in Colorado (most events are not juried) and I get the impression they are some what lax. But I would like to be as close as the budget allows, in case I want to go to other events out of state and just on principle.

Also, I am not doing the sewing myself. I found a local seamstress who if I provide materials will do shirts for 10-20 dollars each(yes on a machine not hand stitched) so I am pricing if it is cheaper to buy or have her make some to get started.

Thanks again

 

[Rifleman1776]

For less than absitively, posilutely perfect, thread counting authentic, the use of correct pattern blended fabrics will do you well. My wife made me a couple garments but did not tell me they were cotton/poly blends until years later. I never knew and nobody at ronny ever shot me for wearing them.

 

[Blackbruin]

Hamilton dry goods, Tennessee. On the web, got some wool and linen off of them, had a few weskits, broadfall pants,and shirts made. Good quality stuff, and from what prices I have seen decent prices.

 

[Rod Lassey]

I also understand about the wool..... Thirty bucks a yard later I had learned a lesson.

I am some what, but not overly concerned about HC/PC as I am doing fur trade and in Colorado (most events are not juried) and I get the impression they are some what lax. But I would like to be as close as the budget allows, in case I want to go to other events out of state and just on principle.

Just a quick look shows some decent lightweight red wool flannel from Burnley & Trowbridge for $13/yd. Perfect for making a fur trade era flannel shirt from---very correct and very common.

They've also got some Russia drill (hemp linen) for $17/yd. that would make some very tough trowsers. Again, quite correct.

Just because it's western fur trade---which is what I do---is no reason to be lax. Get some decent gear, and if you become more interested in the HC/PC you won't have to upgrade. Honestly, it's just as easy to do it right as to do it wrong. The Fur Trade Symposium is going to be at Bent's Fort in 2015, it would give you something to work towards, and get your clothing and gear lined up for it.
http://www.2015fts.org/index.html


Rod

 

[Black Hand]

I'll have to agree with Rod. It is easier, and ultimately cheaper and far less time-consuming, to do it correctly the first time.

 

[tenngun]

Yeah rifleman. I bought a shirt that was a copy of a shirt made in penn. sold to ameican fur in the 1820s. Wore it for years till it was falling apart . It looked and felt like linen but I went to turn in in to rag tinder, only to open the can and find little balls of melted plastic.

 

[tenngun]

Turkey foot traders also carries eastren european made hemp fabric. I've not bought any yet but have had good luck wiyh them on my online buys from them.

 

[paddymurphy]

Thanks again folks. Off to do some research and number crunching.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I think you should take a look at the latest information on Hunting Shirts. We do know that the term existed in Augusta County VA as early as the 1760 probate inventory of a guy who died in 59. We still do not know what a Hunting shirt looked like at that time, but to say that Hunting shirts are not correct for F&I is no longer correct......

Excuse me?

I have looked at the latest information, and I did NOT say that hunting shirts are not correct for the F&I, what I said was to shy away from the JSTC Rifleman's Hunting Frock pattern for they claim it's good for about a 50 year period or longer, and it's not. It's documented for Daniel Morgan, and post AWI.

If you want to wear a large shirt, spit open up the center as your hunting shirt, with the raw edges of the fabric fringed, tha'ts fine. That's what I do. If you wish to add a cape, go ahead, but you yourself pointed out that we don't know what the hunting shirts (not "frocks") looked like for the F&I, so I take exception to a company who tells the public "ours is correct" when then don't know that.

LD

 

[paddymurphy]

OK, I looked over some of the links (thanks again), so a few questions:

1. Would the burnley half linen half wool"manchester cotton" work for early 1800s? I am thinking that for the pants $8 a yard.

Would it work for the shirs or would I be better off with the Irish Linen (LT weight) or a cotton on the shirts?

2. Is 2-3 yards for a shirt and 3 for pants a good estimate?

thanks again for all the help.

 

[Rod Lassey]

Are you looking at the tan heavyweight Manchester cotton? If so, that looks like it would work well for trowsers.

http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/800-3.aspx

Any of the lightweight linens or cottons would work for shirts---don't overlook the lightweight wools, either, they were common shirting materials. 3 yards would be plenty for a shirt, not sure about trowsers, though. Give them a call, I'm sure they would know.

Rod

 

[Rod Lassey]

Take a look at the Carolina Calicoes selection of cottons. The cotton check at the bottom row center at $5.00/yd. would be excellent shirt material:
http://www.carolinacalicoes.com/framed.html

Rod

 

[Greebe]

Check out Jas Townsend & Son. Cool privately owned company that does nothing but make and sell 18th century items.

Fabric: http://jas-townsend.com/index.php?cPath=29&osCsid=d9ce87ce2c260e001c3e65ed9c844cbe

 

[williamsdav]

Found plenty of period fabric (pattern on both sides) in the JO-ANNES Fabric store under the category of 'homespun'. Much better prices than the 'period' stores.