Sources of cheap lead

[Pete Gaimari]

I'm not sure what a .54 ball weighs. How many can I get from 1 lb of lead?

 

[BrownBear]

I'm not sure what a .54 ball weighs. How many can I get from 1 lb of lead?

Just click on this spot right here. Then divide into 7,000 grains per pound.

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Brain fade on my part. I knew what the ball weighed and how many grains in a pound.

I just blanked out, because I thinking of lead.

Getting old is turning my brain into mush.

Thanks.

 

[Bill Hall]

I'm guessing with loss due to dross, you're going to get about 28 .530 RB's per pound. Bill

 

[Pete Gaimari]

A huge savings even if I bought pure lead.

 

[Birddog6]

Sawzalls come with different blades, with different kerfs and numbers of teeth per inch. No, you don't want to use a blade intended for cutting wood for this work.

I am glad to see you used what you have, instead of trying something with which you are unfamiliar.

I thought you had some kind of torch, and that is the Fast answer- as you describe here-- to cutting a huge, heavy brick into manageable "chunks". Glad you solved the problems. You certainly have helped a lot of members learn how to deal with similar problems.

I am glad you had molds to place under the block to catch the melt. I would normally have let the melted lead "pool & cool" on the ground, then washed off debris and dirt, and melted it in the pot in pieces( after it thoroughly dries!)

Thanks for reporting YOUR solution. :hatsoff:

Paul, I tried the largest teeth with the most kerf, it is about a 10" blade & it hung plus tried to rip my arm off.... :rotf: which I figured would happen.... :rotf: May have worked on s thinner chunk or 1"or 2" or so...

I took 2 pieces of 2" angle iron 6" long & held them V shaped & welded a flat plate against each end of each angle to close up the V, welding them on the outside of the V. Quick easy mold & easily stackable. Melt the lead, fill the V, let it sit for 10 min while filling the 2nd mold. When 2nd mold is full, the first mold is cooled so turn it over & tap it on the concrete floor & the ingot falls out, repeat procedure.

The big chunks I drilled a hole in them took a 3/8" lag bolt & welded a 4" rod across the top making a "T" handle, just screw it into the large ingots, carry them where I want them, unscrew it & this way I can stack them & transport them easier.

Keith Lisle :idunno:

 

[paulvallandigham]

The last time I rented a Sawzall, the rental shop had blades in the 5-6 inch length, with large teeth, and lots of kerf. It handled everything we used it on. I was not cutting lead at the time, but I cut plenty of thick stuff that was as tough as lead. I would not have made this recommendation without having seen it used to cut up lead years ago, and with my most recent experience with a rented saw. Its just a question of finding the right blade, IMHO.

If you know a machine shop that has a power hacksaw to cut metal, ask them what blade type they use for cutting soft metals, like copper or lead, or aluminum. That is how I learn what to ask for when renting equipment for a project.

I am sorry it didn't work out for you. I am glad that you got that block cut down to size with the torch. :hatsoff:

 

[ihunts2much]

I have cut large pieces of lead into manageable chunks with a sawzall as Paul said. I used a "demo" blade, they have very coarse teeth and are intended for cutting nail embedded lumber. I oiled the blade often with WD-40 as I cut. It wasn't pretty, but it was reasonably fast. A blade with fine teeth will not work. It will go in a little ways, then the lead coats the teeth and you are done cutting. I also recommend you do this over a drop cloth to recover the chips,I easily had a pound or two of chips on the floor when I was done.

 

[Birddog6]

I did use the sawszall to cut up the sheet lead. The sheet turned out to be 7' x 3' and just a tad over 3/16 thick, once I got it pretty flattened out. Saw worked good on that. Still took me 2.5 hrs to cut it into 6" strips & then roll it up in rolls about 5#each, so it will go into my lead pot. Spend over half that time trying to get the stuff flattened out, as it was all wadded up when I got it. But it is done & out of the way now.

Keith Lisle

 

[paulvallandigham]

I never claimed either method is fast, or clean, nor pretty! I think sawing is going to leave a pile of lead chips( please don't ask how I know this!), and using a torch to cut/melt the stuff is going to leave a lot of melted lead on the ground to recover. And, both take time.

Reducing heavy lead pieces to a size that will fit your pot is a HUGE project- not to be undertaken by the faint of heart. I am very happy that Keith has shared his experience with us, since his work and these comments here have given others an invaluable education on what works, and what doesn't.

Thanks, Keith. :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

 

[Birddog6]

Paul,

I didn't waste any of it to speak of, other than the dirty scum off the top as it was melted. I put one of those large shop low drain pans under the work (32" x 48") that I keep under the tractor when it is not in use. Wiped it out, did all the cutting/melting on top of the pan so I didn't waste any lead. What missed the molds & what I spilled the pan caught, & I just put back in the mods as I am melting more. So it all ends up in ingots, or about 99% of it anyway.
:thumbsup:

Keith Lisle

 

[DutchmanDick]

My dad worked maintenance at a hospital that moved/remodeled their x-ray room. He brought me home several pounds of pure lead sheet that was peeled off the drywall that came off the old x-ray room.

 

[dckcrk]

There is a cool you tube video of a guy pouring a sailboat keel. He used an old cast iron sink over a roaring wood fire to melt a huge amount of lead. He even had the drain plumbed out to make a bottom pour spout. Biggest dang casting melter I ever saw.