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Spark and Flame at the Range!

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CaptainKirk

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...and no, it wasn't one of those wildfires we keep reading about. No, the planets aligned and Cap'n made good on his previously idle threat to turn frizzen sparks into black powder smoke!
I packed up the Lyman Great Plains flinter I had bought off a member of this forum in...good grief!...2020!...and trundled it off to the black powder range, determined to put up or shut up. This time I brought a couple revolvers along for backup but as intended, never even pulled the case from my truck. It was all about 'Ol' Thumper' this time, and I didn't feel like spending the next three days cleaning BP guns anyway. All my rock-lock BP accoutrements were still in their bags since new including those big honkin' .530 round balls, and I spent Friday night unbagging everything and putting it in the gorgeous possibles bag Shotgun Dave had made me after I bought the rifle. I will say this much; I need to get way better organized for my next outing with Ol' Thumper, and I will. But, I digress...
Got to the range about mid-morning and set up. It was sure a relief being a member and only having to fork over 10 simoleons rather than the non-member $40.00 fee.
Having never fired a rock-lock of any size, type or form before (heretofore percussion only), I decided to start light with 70gr of Graf's 2F and a .530RB wearing a .010 pre-lubed pillow ticking hoodie. Down the old stove pipe with 70gr and the PRB, then one good snort of Null-B in the pan for good luck; tipped Thumper on his side and gave the stock a couple good thumps opposite the lock (to move the priming powder away from the touch hole), took aim at a steel gong down range about 50 yards, popped the set trigger and...
ka-BOOM!
Watching that gong a-swangin' in the breeze warmed the cockles of my heart, by golly!

Grinning like the proverbial Cheshire cat, I headed back to the loading bench just as my son pulled into the parking lot. While I swabbed the bore and built a second load, he dragged his kit over to the bench and unpacked his Pietta Sheriff 1851 brasser. I held out the freshly loaded Thumper and queried, "have a go?" He didn't need to answer and I didn't have to ask him twice. I told him just point at the yaller gong and let fly.
KWONG!!!!
Now there were two big steel-colored splotches in the lower left quadrant. Shooting bit low, and a bit left, was Ol' Thumper.
Now, I had previously stapled up four of my 'Targetz' rifle targets (www.targetz.com) but since I was getting some decent gong-y action I decided holes in paper at this moment in time sounded, well...boring.
So while he set up his loading stand and such for his Pietta, I continued to pummel the yellow steel plate. For shooting low and left, this thing was grouping quite nicely.
We traded off a dozen or better shots with it with nary a hitch other than the jaws needing tightening as the flint was moving around a bit, until the inevitable.
You know, that "thing". The one they say "If you never, you will. Eventually."
Don't ask how. I was really methodical in my loading process. In fact, I will still swear under oath in a court of law today that I never *cough, cough, ahem, er...*
Dryballed it.
Honest. I didn't. But I must have. Because after 3 consecutive 'klatches' (a klatch is the Most Heinous sound a flint makes as it strikes the frizzen with: a) no powder in the pan, or b) no powder in the barrel), I realized that Houston, we have a problem.
Now, I know I charged that barrel. But nothing was going on action-wise, so I decided to try to pull the dryball and justify myself when all the powder would come pouring out the muzzle after I pulled it. So I dug out the ball screw and within a minute had the ball puller screwed into the, ahem...dry ball.
There was only one problem. With only a few inches of ramrod poking out of the muzzle, there wasn't enough ramrod to get a good grip on. What I needed was a steel or brass ramrod with a T-handle or slide hammer on the end.
Wish in one hand and spit in the other, same results. Nothing.
So, with that failure staring me in the face, I had one option left. I unscrewed the ramrod from the ball, then opened the frizzen/pan cover and removed the vent liner. Now, I knew that vent liner would come out because when I first got the gun I had removed it and put anti-seize on the threads, being the clever fellow I was. It came right out. I gave the hole in the breech plug a couple squirts of Null B, threaded the vent liner back in, the primed the pan, crossed my fingers, and tripped the trigger.
Poof!
A rather sickly, anemic sound. But my son said "I saw flame come out the muzzle, Dad!"
Not wanting to call him a liar in public, I pulled the vent liner again and shone my mini StreamLight down the muzzle. "I see light!" he grinned.
I had him shine the light while I looked. By golly, I saw it too! The tiny Null B charge had done the trick.
Just about then the RO strolled over and said "Hot dogs are done on the grill if you are interested..." If? Boy howdy, take me to your leader!
After a hot dog and a bag of chips we resumed shooting if nothing had ever happened with nary a glitch the rest of the day, probably getting off another dozen or more shots before deciding to wrap things up. Besides, the bore was starting to get a bit coked up with fouling despite swabbing after every shot. No matter; mission accomplished! We had ridden the dragon and come out unscathed (other than my pride, a little) and left a freshly painted yellow gong looking like a high school kid with a primo case of acne. And that, my friends, is a Good Day At The Range!

NOTE: If you look closely on the bench, you will also see the Most Excellent 'Balls Bag' purchased from Two Feather here as well.
53888945301_95326ba613_z.jpg
 
Welcome to the world of Flintlocks CaptainKirk! I have been shooting flinters nigh on 40 years and even now I admit that on occasion the powder charge just seems to vanish out of the barrel, like magic! Great thing about flinters is you can always trickle in enough priming powder (I have a small flask that is filled with 4FG that I ground down to the consistency of flour) to spit out the ball. Fine looking rifle & gear, I hope you continue to shoot this rifle.

I have a JP Henry trade rifle and shoot a .530 ball with a 12 thou patch and 80g of 2Fg, it really hits the target with authority.
 

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Cap, good to see ya over here. Also wanna say thankee for a great write up. Enjoyed it immensely. Judging by your calibre, you been here a bit. Shows how observant I been. Welcome to the flintlock fever. Ya may never recover but a great group to be in the pit with.
 
Welcome to the world of Flintlocks CaptainKirk! I have been shooting flinters nigh on 40 years and even now I admit that on occasion the powder charge just seems to vanish out of the barrel, like magic! Great thing about flinters is you can always trickle in enough priming powder (I have a small flask that is filled with 4FG that I ground down to the consistency of flour) to spit out the ball. Fine looking rifle & gear, I hope you continue to shoot this rifle.

I have a JP Henry trade rifle and shoot a .530 ball with a 12 thou patch and 80g of 2Fg, it really hits the target with authority.
Thanks! Been shooting BP for 40 years but never dipped a toe in the flintlock pond until now. It just looked like too much fun, and it was! I'm sure Thumper and me are going to become 'besties' real quick!
 
Cap, good to see ya over here. Also wanna say thankee for a great write up. Enjoyed it immensely. Judging by your calibre, you been here a bit. Shows how observant I been. Welcome to the flintlock fever. Ya may never recover but a great group to be in the pit with.
Great to see you as well, bigted! Yeah, I reckon I've been here a spell. Time flies when you're having fun!
 
If you had a few inches sticking out of the muzzle, a piece of paracord or small rope and three or so half hitches would have pulled the dry ball. Tie it to a post, wet the barrel, and pull. I never use a wooden rod on the range. (Somehow my font got changed. Blankety-blank computer.)
 
If you had a few inches sticking out of the muzzle, a piece of paracord or small rope and three or so half hitches would have pulled the dry ball. Tie it to a post, wet the barrel, and pull. I never use a wooden rod on the range. (Somehow my font got changed. Blankety-blank computer.)
Good to know for next time around. Although I think I'm going to purchase an aftermarket range rod. I have a composite rod for loading but there is no threaded fitting on the other end. Can anyone recommend one in brass or aluminum?
 
@CaptainKirk, it's not really that difficult to attach a threaded tip to the composite rod so you can attach a T handle, range extension or both. All it takes is a file to reduce the diameter of the composite rod at the tip, some epoxy to attach it, and a drill with a bit sized for the pin to keep the tip on the rod. Have you verified that the threaded tip is pinned to the rod? Usually takes many pages of responses to get the unpinned tip out of the bore when it gets pulled off.
 
@CaptainKirk, it's not really that difficult to attach a threaded tip to the composite rod so you can attach a T handle, range extension or both. All it takes is a file to reduce the diameter of the composite rod at the tip, some epoxy to attach it, and a drill with a bit sized for the pin to keep the tip on the rod. Have you verified that the threaded tip is pinned to the rod? Usually takes many pages of responses to get the unpinned tip out of the bore when it gets pulled off.
There is no threaded tip on the range rod. One end is a flared brass bullet seater. The other end is just squared off composite rod, suitable for using a palm saver. I could probably attach a threaded fitting on that end.
 
Good to know for next time around. Although I think I'm going to purchase an aftermarket range rod. I have a composite rod for loading but there is no threaded fitting on the other end. Can anyone recommend one in brass or aluminum?
I make mine of one piece 5/16s steel rod from LOWE's and thread a 1.5 inch ball on the end from Ace Hardware.
Good ball pullers can be made by hard soldering a sheet rock screw on the end of a cleaning jag. They are very hard and sharp pointed auguring into the soft lead without expanding it much making it tighter on the patch.
You should also load through a down bore muzzle protector made of brass or Delrin so you won't screw up your muzzle over time and have to cut it back. This is true of wood as well as steel,composite or brass loading rods.
The composite rods (fiber glass or delrin) are not good as far as abrasion on muzzle crowns with out at least a muzzle protector because of how easily they flex. They tend to collect grit and flex when pushing down bore sawing on the land corners of the rifling. Fiber glass rods are particularly abrasive by themselves.
You may already know all this as the same is true of percussion guns but in case you didn't.
 
@CaptainKirk, recommended rods of brass or stainless steel from Track of the Wolf, October Country, Muzzleloaders' Builders Supply, Midsouth, Midway or several other top suppliers sell these rods with threaded tips and available muzzle protectors. Or as @M. De Land suggests one can be made from a 5/16" steel rod from a hardware store using a suitable brass flare fitting for a muzzle protector if you hve the ability to thread the ends. Hint: Thread one end for 8-32 and the other end for 10-32. Then. unless you have a CVA or Traditions with metric threads, the accessories will always fit.
 

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