I just use regular old shotgun choke grease and shot six cylinders in a row without any cleaning and no binding whatsoever. I think it is important to not only grease the cylinder pin, but also pack some in the hole in the cylinder for the pin.
I just use regular old shotgun choke grease and shot six cylinders in a row without any cleaning and no binding whatsoever. I think it is important to not only grease the cylinder pin, but also pack some in the hole in the cylinder for the pin
Nice holster. I need to get one for mine.It isn't the design of the gun that is causing the binding. I can shoot mine a lot before it starts to get sluggish.
I lube all of my black powder guns with Ballistol, and nothing else.
Mine shot really high when I got it. I made a new, taller front sight for it out of an old brass screw. That solved the problem.
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I made mine.Nice holster. I need to get one for mine.
I can put fifty rounds or better thru my Pietta Navy and it will still run, but of course being an open frame with an arbor that has grooves helps there.
This Spiller and Burr surprised me, though. A few shots and doesn't want to turn. I tried putting grease atop the round balls after loading and that seemed to help, but I'm not a fan of performing that step.
I really like the gun. The action is great, the balance and point ability. I'm going to take it out again and make a few changes and hope foe improvement.
I have three brass-framed revolvers, and I do not baby them. I shoot as much black powder as will still allow easy seating of the ball. None of them are loose. All are 36 caliber, BTW. I think 44 caliber revolvers will loosen with lots of full loads, but I don't know from experience.A question for those of you who have these brass framed revolvers and have shot them a great deal. Have you noticed any looseness in the frame fit, or do you always use light loads?
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