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Spit patch ?

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paradork

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Working up a load for my .32. I've probably shot 100 times this past week with nothing but frustration. One shot its on, the next darn near missed the target. No concistency at all. I've tried .10,.15,.18 with .311 rb from a lee mold. From 20grains to 30 grains. Tried Mink oil and bore butter for lube. When I started shooting the ML I always spit patched and had decent accuracy, since switching to lubes the gun shoots all over the place and makes a huge mess in the barrel. Shooting APP which states "use no lube" and I'm starting to believe it. Anyhow, its my squirrel gun so how long before a spit patch dries out. APP is supposed to make its own lube I guess. Probably won't be loaded longer than 4 hrs at the most on a given hunt. I'm also going to start weighing the RBs to take that variable out of the equation. Any advise
 
From what I've read & emailed the guys at APP about, with a patched ball it shouldn't need any lube, and as you've discovered will gunk up your barrel pretty quick.

Straight from their FAQ, you need to clean out any leftover oil / lube from your barrel before shooting and THEN load, fire a fouling shot (Blank), then reload with your patch and ball.

I've been shooting REAL's out of my .50 with APP, they pack a wallop. No lube, loaded real easy after that first fouling shot.
 
I have a couple of .32s and they are quite fussy about components. Weighing the balls made a big difference for me. Patch lube was another variable that caused me frustration. I read about the Dutch Shoultz dry-lube method and tried it. It took getting control of all variables before either of my guns began to deliver good, reliable accuracy. Even the jag size and dampness of the bore-wiping patch between shots seems to affect where these pea-sized balls hit. I believe part of this is due to the much higher velocity we get with even small charges. Good accuracy with my .32 T/C Cherokee is easiest to achieve right around 1500 fps. The factory suggested load of 30 grains of FFFg gives around 1800 fps with a .310 round ball. Mine shoots best with 22 grains of FFFg and a .320 round ball (which is tight to load using my preferred .016 pillow ticking patch)
 
Strato,
Are you saying use a dry patch with app and rb?How to your recovered patches look if using dry?
 
Without getting into a lube or don't lube discussion, what are the condition of your shot patches?

If they are torn, cut, ripped or burned, that is the reason you can't get any accuracy.

If they do have any of these nasty things and you don't want to lube the patches, maybe changing the ball size or the patch thickness will help.
 
Patches look good, i'll just have to try the spit patch and hope that's it. Can't even load the .18 without mink oil. .15 loaded nice spit or lube.
 
If a spit patch works in your rifle, then that's what the gun likes. No two rifles, even the same make and model, may behave identically. when the rifle says, "I like this", then stick to it.
 
Never cared for spit patches...I'm a hunter, no need to put spit down a barrel when you don't know how long it would be when you are going to shoot...

Try SnoSeal or some of Stumpy's Moose Snot as a lube...

Ditch the fake powder and pick up some FFF Goex....No need to reinvent the wheel here, stick with what works... :thumbsup:
 
One other factor you may consider is that in may not be the lube as much as the amount of lube you are trying to use. My rifles accuracy has benefitted greatly by using the bare minimum amount of lube. My groups shrank by 20% when I used as little lube on my patches as I could. The fact that your rifle responsed well to spit patch makes me suspect that you may have used to much of the other lubes. Dutch’s dry lube method also worked very well when I found the right combination of lube to water.
 
Flash Pan Dan said:
One other factor you may consider is that in may not be the lube as much as the amount of lube you are trying to use. My rifles accuracy has benefitted greatly by using the bare minimum amount of lube. My groups shrank by 20% when I used as little lube on my patches as I could. The fact that your rifle responsed well to spit patch makes me suspect that you may have used to much of the other lubes. Dutch’s dry lube method also worked very well when I found the right combination of lube to water.

I agree that it's not necessarily the lube-type, but the amount that is critical. At one time, I'd dip patches into melted lube, then bag them up. Commercial patches all seem to be heavily dip-lubed, too.

All the dipped and commercial patches I have, I heated up, then "squeegied" with a square-edged putty knife. A lot of excess grease/lube is removed, to the point they don't stick together in the bag/jar anymore.

I also have several types of dry patch material, and have gotten great results by simply wiping them across the surface of my beeswax/tallow lube jar, then placing 2 patches face to face, and rub them together until the small amount of lube is rubbed into the patch fibers.

Unfortunately, in my climate, a loogie-lube shooter would meet untimely demise, running dry of spit in short order. Never saw the need to resort to a non-grease lube, no matter what the 'experts' may suggest.
 
He's telling the truth.
And an Honest Man will tell ya that for free.
It's some good advice.
He's just trying to help.
 

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