Spit?

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Well hi, yall.

Guys in a bit of time I'll have my new .36 squirreling rifle and I hope to do a mighty lot of target shooting, squirreling, and rabbiting with the piece.

Doing much research on the subject of lubrication for gun patches, I have learned that some use their own spit to moisten a patch for shooting. Some claim this works as well if not better than commercial or homemade patch lubes, and of course saves money.

Now I do use "spit patches" as it were to swab my bore out after shooting a few shots, but have yet to use them as an actual lube for a PRB. Just looking for some input on the pros and the cons of using spit patches for shooting.

~Smokey~
 
At one time, I used spit when shooting targets and a grease lube when hunting. I now use a grease lube all the time - keeps me from getting dry-mouth and fibers in my mouth. Grease is also consistent and cheap.

Personally, I would not use spit-patching when hunting...
 
I have a .31 that is most accurate using spit as lube. Close behind is neatsfoot oil which is what I use when hunting because the spit would dry out.
 
I tried spit a couple of times and was not a fan of the dry mouth like Black Hand mentioned.

I found it a lot harder to load, especially with a fouled bore. Maybe I didn't use enough. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I've used Mink oil Tallow or olive oil almost exclusively. They are both great lubes in my opinion, just found the Mink oil to be more accurate in my rifle.
 
It's all about personal preference...
Give it and decide for yourself...

I love spit for lube...I also like beeswax/olive oil.
But, every match, prize, or trophy I ever won was with spit....and it has put holes in many squirrel heads...
 
Just stay far away from petroleum products and the auto supply store....

Most guys that make their own lube use something readily available to them..

Experimenting is part of the fun.....
 
I've tried about every home spun lube to include all the commercial stuff that's being offered on the market today for years. Didn't even occur to me to even try spit. It's just way to simple!

Been watching Jethro shooting just using spit patches all along so I decided to try them myself.

Now I only use spit patches exclusively! I can shoot all day for the most part without any difficulty loading. No ignition or fowling problems either! Alot of the people I shoot with just use plain ol spit. If ya get a dry mouth, just take a swig of water and yer good to go! It's just that simple.

Not knocking anyone else who does use various lube's. As good ol Rifleman1776 always says It's a do yer own thang game!There are many different path's you can take to complete our journey. As long as you're safe getting there!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:
 
SgtErv said:
I tried spit a couple of times and was not a fan of the dry mouth like Black Hand mentioned.
I never use spit patches when hunting, might cause a rust ring if it stayed there for hours.

I like to use it when I'm just plinking and shooting a fair bit, but I cheat to avoid that dry mouth. I cut my patches at the muzzle, so I carry strips of patching of the proper width. When the shooting starts I dip a strip into a stream or wet it from my canteen, then wring it out well and fasten it to my shot pouch strap. It will stay damp enough for long enough to shoot it up, I have always been pleased with the accuracy I get doing it that way and I never need to wipe the bore.

Spence
 
just don't get mixed up & try to patch yer ball with yer chaw. :surrender:
 
That's something I never would've thought to try. I figure it would do in a pinch. I'm surprised it doesn't spoil the charge, but I guess the water content is minimal. Same with sput, if it's just damp we're ok. (Most lubes have some moisture content, I oppose, so that's why we use minimal amounts).

Plainsman, you will find that your patch thickness is going to play a role in dictating your lube options. My Rice barrel requires a thick ticking patch (.018) and so Ive come to rely on greasy Mink oil Tallow. When I used a .015 patch in another rifle I could load with about any kind of lube.
 
I use spit patches when target shooting. It is not a normal practice for me to wipe between shots however if the weather / humidity or whatever cause the loading to get a bit difficult then I will run a cleaning patch down to clear it out. I'll not say I never have to wipe between shots. :idunno:

When hunting I use Track's mink oil. I have a shelf full of things I wasted money on to make all sorts of concoctions I read about on the various sites. I have castor oil, witch hazel and 10 other items that sit there and will get thrown out eventually. :doh: Good luck in your journey.

Dave
 
58 caliber said:
I use spit patches when target shooting. It is not a normal practice for me to wipe between shots however if the weather / humidity or whatever cause the loading to get a bit difficult then I will run a cleaning patch down to clear it out. I'll not say I never have to wipe between shots. :idunno:

When hunting I use Track's mink oil. I have a shelf full of things I wasted money on to make all sorts of concoctions I read about on the various sites. I have castor oil, witch hazel and 10 other items that sit there and will get thrown out eventually. :doh: Good luck in your journey.

Dave
Lard from the grocery store works - a one pound tub/block will cost you $2-3 and last for some time.

I feel it unnecessary to play alchemist when it comes to lubes. Greases/oils (lard, tallow, olive oil and many others) worked well for the original shooters of muzzleloaders for hundreds of years and they work well today. I started with Bore Butter and eventually switched to Bear grease - never looked back or felt the need to experiment. Some people will tell you that this hobby is all about trying things, but for me it is about replicating the situations of 200+ years ago and limiting myself to what they had at the time.
 
Spit certainly works well. Make sure to wash your patching material and maybe even rinse it by hand well before drying it. I use lube at the range but any field loading I do I use a spit patch. I don't ever pre-load (hunt) but I would not recommend pre-loading a spit patch either.
 
SgtErv said:
I figure it would do in a pinch. I'm surprised it doesn't spoil the charge, but I guess the water content is minimal.
The concern that damp patches might interfere with ignition is a topic discussed many times over the years, and I'm sure many still think it could be a problem. I no longer do after experimenting with wet powder. I stirred enough water into black powder to make a wet mud and it still burned.

I did the same thing with light oil, it burned even better.

I am no longer worried that the amount of either on a patch will cause problems with ignition.

Spence
 
Thanks so much for the comments, guys. You are helping me learn a great deal!

Aside from spit, I will have to try some mink's oil. I have heard many great things on mink's oil for patch lube. I have heard a .36 can become difficult to load after a few shots, so will try to see if I'll need to swab out every shot with a cleaning patch. I already use spit patches to swab the bore on my plains rifle and horse pistol and it seems to work nicely, but so far all I've tried are commercial pre-cut wonder lube patches from Ox-Yoke via Track of the Wolf.

I'd like to get to a point where I can make good quality good shooting patches that also cost less than pre-made ones, and am just doing a lot of research on various lubes and patching materials so I know where to start once my squirrel rifle is delivered.
 
I use spit when loading my .32 and sometimes have to wipe after 5 or 6 shots. I wipe when it seems the round is getting hard to load or if it the round is getting hard to seat to the usual depth. I mark my rod for the load I am using.

I've tried the same with my .36, but have many fewer rounds through it due to it being finicky about going off after a couple of rounds. With it I get three or four shots and then it seems to want to do the flash in the pan thing unless I force grains of powder into the touch hole. Even then it doesnt always want to go off. 't is a Traditions Shenandoah flintlock and I think part of the issue is the funky breach setup on those things. I need to get it out to the range and do more work with it.
 
That's the only problem I can think of caused by swabbing after each shot. It doesn't always cause a misfire but you never know when it might. Picking the touch hole each time usually helps.

IMHO there are just too many simple lubes, natural and bought, to justify using alchemy to come up with some concoction. In fact, there are so very many materials that can be used with at least some success, that it gets downright confusing trying to choose. Just remember that liquids can evaporate or create rust in the bore if left there too long.
 
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