• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Squirrel rifle options

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Some folks use a caliber as large as .40 for squirrels but I am of the opinion that .32 is ideal and .36 is quite workable. In either case, I would restrict my shots to head shots. A muzzleloader, even a .32, will tear up a lot of meat when you make a body shot....if you hit either the shoulders or the hind legs. I guess, if you used very light loads and restrict your shots to head shots you could use a .45 or larger but, if you can afford it, a .32 with an A weight barrel will be your best bet. I am afraid that a barrel that will fit your T/C that is chambered for a .32 will have so much metal in it, that it will be like carrying a barbell through the woods. You might also consider a fowler for your squirrel gun. Again, this assumes that you happen to have the price of a new gun in your pocket.

These are just the opinions of an old fart so take them for what they are worth to you. :haha:
 
I have owned a .32 .36 and .40 caliber. I still own the .36 caliber. In my opinion you should be going for head shots regardless of the caliber. A .32 .36 or .40 in the body will for all intent and purposes cause the same damage from my experiences. I'd go with option two.

As for why I kept the .36 it's just a perfect caliber for squirrel, rabbit and target shooting. .32 balls I found to be a little small to handle and .40 a bit overkill. The .36 just fills the bill for both hunting and target shooting.
 
Talk him down on the price.He removed the breech plug for no reason hard to tell what other bad practices. I have barked a few Squirrels with 50 thru 58 and usually they need a head knock to finish off. I saw a Squirrel with a messed up spine from a squirrel fight drag it's way to the top of a tree prob 50 feet or more high fall out land on a log and start the climb again. :shocked2: Larry
 
I would go with a Seneca in .36, but then that is easy for me to say since I have one in the safe.

Seriously, it is a joy for rabbit or squirrel. Light and easy to carry and quite accurate for the shots. I bought it for my son and am glad that it is still here in my inventory.

I also have a larger T/C with a .40, but it would be a challenge to tote around in the woods. Purely a range gun in my opinion.

CS
 
larry wv said:
Talk him down on the price.He removed the breech plug for no reason hard to tell what other bad practices. Larry

Larry:

I think you are correct and this could turn into the proverbial can of worms. I am having second thoughts, as this is an Internet purchase and I would be buying the gun sight unseen, except for a few digital pictures.
 
Well I have two of each and like the 36 for hunting and the .32 for just practicing.
Yea I know why two of each well I bought the first two when they came out and then spent 30 years looking for another of each.
Went into my toy store at the time and there in the rack was one of each and I looked at both decided on the .36 and the dealer asked me if I would like the .32 and I told him I could not afford both at his asking price so he sold me both for the price of one of them as I was the only person that had shown any real interest in them. Never expect to find that kind of deal again but you just never know.
 
Yes, I would like to find such a deal, but I paid a premium price when I bought my .36 Seneca and have never regretted it. Well worth the price and the source of many good times. The Seneca is my favorite of all T/Cs - by far!

My son shot it in competition; took rabbits with it and I took rabbits and squirrels with it.

Good looks, good feel and accurate. Also cheap to shoot with Hornady 000 buckshot - .350 ball

CS
 
Pacobillie said:
"Hi Guy,the first thing you do when you get a muzzelloader is to remove the plug and coat it with anti-sieze lubricant or tape so if you need to remove it ,you can.

News to me. I have only removed one since 1976 (in about 1980) and buggered up the barrel. I was using a four foot cheater pipe and the vice slipped even with the special T/C barrel wrench I bought. I was never tempted to try again.

Sure, they come off. But so do steering wheels from cars. Just not something you do normally.
 
I wouldn't even think about removing the breech plug from a factory made gun unless all options for removing a obstructed bore had failed.

Not only will it void the warranty but as Stumpkiller found out it's a good way to mess up the finish on a nice barrel.

IMO, Traditional muzzleloading firearms are not meant to have their breech plugs removed and there are only a few, very rare reasons why it should be necessary.
 
Sure, they come off. But so do steering wheels from cars. Just not something you do normally.

:hmm: I've had a whole bunch of steering wheels off of cars and trucks, but then I was a mechanic for 25 years...
Never yet had a reason to remove a breechplug.
 
Bet you wished you never had a reason to pull the steering wheel on a caddy with tilt, telescopic column..... :rotf:
 
Zonie said:
I wouldn't even think about removing the breech plug from a factory made gun unless all options for removing a obstructed bore had failed.

Not only will it void the warranty but as Stumpkiller found out it's a good way to mess up the finish on a nice barrel.

IMO, Traditional muzzleloading firearms are not meant to have their breech plugs removed and there are only a few, very rare reasons why it should be necessary.

I have given this a lot of thought and I am not going to pursue this rifle. At best, the seller has voided the warranty. At worst, he has damaged the rifle and/or destroyed its resale value.

So unless he (the seller) offers me a really sweet deal, I will pass on the opportunity.

Thanks to all who contributed.
 
Are you against a Tradition's rifle? There are the .32 Crockett ($469) and less traditional .32 Deerstalker ($299) sidelocks.
 
Best way to get squirrels with big calaber is to pull down real real fine and shoot just infront of their nose,,,the ball sucks all the air out of their lungs,they sufficate and it dont spoil any meat.
Course you got to be a fair shot......
 
A good friend of mine uses his .50 for squirrels (sent me a pic as evidence the other day). He reduces the charge of course, not sure if he's tried the barking or vacuum technique though! :thumbsup:
 
For those that think that's not possible I knew a guy in Arizona who used shoot cast bullets with gas checks in his .458WM for prarie dogs. You didn't even need to hit 'em to kill 'em. The shock wave going by would drop 'em and there they were lying dead with blood coming out their head holes. Course, he was a fair shot. Go figure.

I've never tried it on a squirrel.:hmm:

Enjoy, J.D.
 
ebiggs said:
For those that think that's not possible ...

Count me in this group!
Perhaps another experiment is in order. Of course, we will need a coroner to determine if the squirrel was winded or died of something else. :grin:

Enjoy, J.D.
 
jdkerstetter said:
ebiggs said:
For those that think that's not possible ...

Count me in this group!
Perhaps another experiment is in order. Of course, we will need a coroner to determine if the squirrel was winded or died of something else. :grin:

Enjoy, J.D.

And then we wonder where the PETA activists get their material!
 
Back
Top