Stain and browning help

[Loja man]

Good morning all! I hope you’re enjoying the frozen tundra that our world is at the moment! Or at least here in Kentucky!
So I have a Traditions Kentucky kit on the way. I piggybacked a couple questions on another recent posts related to Kentucky built but thought I would just start my own post. Trying to stay ahead with the question so I have everything lined up.
So I would like to use the Laurel Mountain stains as well as Rust browning they sale. At least I’m leaning towards the rust Browning. So here are my questions.
1- those of you who have worked with tradition kits with the Beachwood. Any thoughts on how to achieve colors similar to these? I like the dark walnut that is typical of pre assemble Pedersolies. I also like the pics here with the red undertones. Can I use a couple coats of maple and then nut brow on top?
2- If you have a traditions Kentucky with a browned barrel can you post some pics?
3- if you recognize one these guns it’s probably because it’s your these are pictures I’ve taken off of the form of the guns that I have liked!

 

[Spikebuck]

I know you are asking for advice from someone that has specifically used stains on Beech wood, which I haven't, but I will say that if you like reddish-brown colors, Danglers Alcohol based stains, one of which is Reddish-Brown, are excellent. It is available through Muzzleloader Builders Supply. They also have an Orange Toner that can be used with other stain colors to put and orangish-red tint in (not mixed, but applied before or after another color). Sometimes you just have to experiment, preferably with a piece of wood from the same stock wood as the gun, which unfortunately isn't an option with your situation, but getting another piece of beech from the local lumber store is better than nothing to experiment on.

That said, Laurel Mountain has excellent products and I've used their stains, the browning agent, and Permalyn products with great results. If you want to use their stains, give them a call and ask them for advice on getting the color you want on the wood you have.

Here is a build in maple that has Dangler's Reddish Brown applied so you can get an idea of the color. There are two coats of the stain applied. It was finished with Permalyn sealer and finish.

 

[Loja man]

Thanks Spikebuck. It’s hard when there’s so many products available on the market. Once again my big question is how some of these stains would look on Beechwood. I plan on acquiring some scrap to test colors on but also don’t wanna spend a bunch of extra money on colors I may not use.
That is a very nice rifle you have thier. Would probably like to shoot for that color as a base and then maybe move darker depending on the Beechwood itself.
Any more help?

 

[Loja man]

Any more pictures or suggestions? I think I have read through most of the other threads about building the Traditions Kentucky kit. So lots of good info out their that has been helpful.
I have not been able to talk with someone at Laurel mountain, they won’t answer the phone.
So here is the sample colors from Luarel Mountain. Once again

thinking starting with the maple and then going over it with the nut brow.

 

[stewart.leach]

I was gifted a Traditions kit with the dead white nearly grain-free beech stock. Used a cotton swab to test Laurel Mountain stains in the barrel inlet. Tried one, two and three applications of the stains, plus a few combinations. Wound up using one coat of cherry under two coats of walnut for a darkish reddish brown. Many coats of LM sealer and finish later I still like it.

 

[Loja man]

Hey Stewart thanks for chiming in!! Do you have the means to post a couple pictures?? Sure would like to see how it turned out!!

 

[Loja man]

Well received a email that my Kentucky rifle has a shipping label!! The bummer is that I leave for Ecuador on Thursday. Won’t be home till about the 26th!! :-(
Stewart I would still like to see some pictures of your rifle?

 

[bldtrailer]

Here's what the stock looks like after cherry stain there is not much "curl" don't expect to look like high grade maple(the lancaster below) but it's not bad for this entry level kit. the photos did not pick up the high lights after several rub downs with boiled lin seed oil.

 

[Loja man]

Hey bldtrailer, thanks for chiming in. I know I am not going to mimic hight grade maple. It is what it is. Still hoping to see more examples of finished beech stocks from some who used LMS.

 

[bakerjw]

I just joined as I just purchased a Traditions Kentucky rifle kit today. The finish for the stock is one of the questions that I will be having when it arives.

Where are you going in Ecuador? I spent several months on and off on the coast several years back.

 

[Loja man]

I am flying into Guayaquil. Picking up our SUV then traveling to Cuenca. Traveling back to Guayaquil on the 16. Then on to Oregon on the 17.
I will keep all posted on how the staining goes. When I get to that point.

 

[Loja man]

Those of you who have custom guns or know more about traditional rifles. How thin do you sand/file the wood along the barrel? I remember reading something about it along the way but can’t find it now?
I found these pic somewhere. Would either of these be true of Kentucky rifles?
So I guess my question is how much wood to take off and do I keep the original profile? Right now thier is over a 1/8 lip on either side of the barrel. Just wondering if and how much to slim it down.
Thanks

 

[ord sgt]

This is a CVA Pennsylvania rifle from the mid 1970's. Close to the Traditions models, I beleive.

 

[TGJaeger]

Any more pictures or suggestions? I think I have read through most of the other threads about building the Traditions Kentucky kit. So lots of good info out their that has been helpful.
I have not been able to talk with someone at Laurel mountain, they won’t answer the phone.
So here is the sample colors from Luarel Mountain. Once againView attachment 65055 thinking starting with the maple and then going over it with the nut brow.

Loja,
Nut brown is really brown. I have used it but it is one of those stain colors that you might want to dilute and sneak up on the color you're after rather than overdoing the initial coat and having to sand it back. Laurel Mountain stains really, really penetrate.

 

[Loja man]

Thank you TGJaeger! That is helpful to know!! I’ll probably start with the first coat of maple and then the nut brown over top.

 

[Loja man]

I’ve been working some on dry fitting parts today. The trigger guard seems to be at a totally wrong angle! Not sure the little screws they provided are going to be adequate to suck it down flat into the channels.

 

[Fifty Four]

You're going to have to open those inlets up a little, or at least one of them, to allow the trigger guard to lay down properly. Try a piece of coarse sandpaper glued to a dowel and twisted by hand to elongate the slots. Feel free to use better screws, too, rather than the puny little things they give you in the kit.

 

[SmokepoleSam]

ord sgt, that looks like a CVA Kentucky to me, with a single trigger and two piece stock.Pennsylvanias have double triggers and a one piece stock and a longer barrel(39-40"). The Kentucky is about 32 1/2-33 1/2."

 

[Artificer]

1- those of you who have worked with tradition kits with the Beachwood. Any thoughts on how to achieve colors similar to these? I like the dark walnut that is typical of pre assemble Pedersolies. I also like the pics here with the red undertones. Can I use a couple coats of maple and then nut brow on top?

I've got a great deal of experience staining unmentionable stocks and handguards (almost always from different tree's in the same species) of both Beech and Birch, plus in the color you are looking for and having to match the color on all three pieces of wood. The great thing is you don't have to worry about matching two or more pieces of wood with a ML stock.

It is FAR too easy to get ugly blotches of stain in different areas of the stock, if you don't do some preparation BEFORE you stain the stock. Been there too many times and got too many T shirts for it.

Before staining and to ensure an EVEN coat of stain on Birch or Beech, you have to do what some call "conditioning" the wood so the end grain in the stock doesn't suck up a lot of stain to form those ugly blotches.

I do this by mixing Birchwood Casey Tru Oil with Rubbing Alcohol in a One to One ratio by volume. A tablespoon of each mixed together thoroughly, is usually more than enough quantity. I hard rub that over the entire finish sanded stock, leaving very little on the surface, as most in rubbed into the pores. Allow that to dry THOROUGHLY and it can take up to a couple days if left to dry indoors or a full day if left to dry outside, but NOT in direct sunlight. Then sand the surface one more time with the finest grit of sandpaper you used to sand the stock. Ensure you wipe the entire stock down to get all dust and sanded finish off the outside of the stock, before using the stain. You have now sealed the end grain, so the stock will stain evenly.

At this point you may use any stain you wish, BUT you HAVE to allow the stain to dry up to three or four days inside to where it is bone dry or outside a full day and not in direct sunlight. This because some stains have a solvent in them, like alcohol, that "wets" the finish again and it has to fully dry once more.

I prefer to use Fiebings Medium Brown Leather Dye to stain stocks the color you are talking about. Though it is called Dye, it is still a spirit stain, meaning it has alcohol in it as the solvent. If you would like to read on how I do that, please ask.

Gus

P.S. Forgot to mention since I don't stain the inside of the barrel channel, I use full strength finish on that after I stain the outside of the stock and it dries completely.

 

[kh0456]

I built three CVA rifles back in the late 70s early 80s. I’m sure they are beech wood stocks. The only photo of them I have at the moment is of them on the rack. Top three... .32 squirrel, .58 mountain, .45 Kentucky flintlock . the bottom is a TVM .36 flintlock in maple.
at the time I think I used regular brown stain.