Stain plus Iron Nitrate - Best Application Sequence on Fancy Maple?

[wiscoaster]

When finishing a fancy maple stock with a combination of a penetrating oil-based stain and iron nitrate / aqua fortis, is it best to do the iron nitrate and heat treatment process first, then followed by the stain, or is it best to do the stain first and then followed by the iron nitrate and heat treatment process?

The stains I'm considering are Minwax honey maple (yellowish) or Minwax colonial maple (reddish). The purpose of the iron nitrate is mainly to highlight the figuring.

 

[Tumbledown]

I would do the iron nitrate/heat first. You can adjust the coloring later.

Zonie said he never used iron nitrate, because the results were too unpredictable. He did it only once, and used stains for everything else.

Minwax is poorly rated by builders because it doesn't penetrate well. Myself and others have used Fiebring's leather dyes to great success, and you can easily blend dyes for the right shade. I did a plain maple stock using 7 parts Saddle Tan to 5 parts Oxblood. (It did seem to highlight what little curl I have in said stock on the bottom of the fore. Tough to get a good pic using indoor lighting. )

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Laurel Mt. Cherry wood stain

 

[Mgbruch]

I always apply the aquafortis, or iron nitrate, first. Then I work with stains to get the color I want... or get as close to it as I want. I use a good sized scrap piece for my testing.

This stock received two coats of iron nitrate, followed by a coat of tannic acid. I blushed all at once, then rubbed it back with purple scotchbrite. Then I used two coats of LMF Maple (good red and brown tones), followed by a coat of LMF Cherry. I used Chambers oil finish for the final finish, and for the second coat, I mixed some LMF Cherry in with the oil.

Every piece of wood is going to be different. That's why a practice scrap is important... to me anyway.

 

[reddogge]

I would use iron nitrate first and use an aniline dye like Fiebings instead of Minwax. It's more controllable. You can apply more coats or make it less dark by rubbing with alcohol.

 

[wiscoaster]

Laurel Mt. Cherry wood stain
....

Nice!! Thanks for recco.

 

[akroguy]

The open grained areas with AF applied and blushed can become VERY dark once oiled or stained afterwards. So, scrub it back with scotchbrite before you put any stain on it, unless you want a really dark stock. I like Tried and True varnish oil with some turpentine mixed in and some Laurel Mountain Forge Cherry stain to redden it up a bit.