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Staining and Finishing Time

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The 4th Kibler Colonial is all assembled with some carvings done here and there. It's another .54 caliber. My next one (a Cherry Colonial) will probably get more bold relief carving.
I raised the grain and cleaned it up, and will do so again before final smoothing and touch-ups in the carvings.
I am curious how this will look. This nicely figured wood threw me a curve ball with it's Cherry features. Thanks to Jim K for clearing that up for me.
 

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I water-based dyed the stock, using a blend of browns and reds, and later darkened in some areas to add age and warmth. Then I applied Boiled Linseed Oil liberally and allowed it to penetrate for about ten minutes, removing the surface oil after that. I rubbed it in a while and will allow it to dry for several days as I burnish it with a white 3M pad. Finally, I will be applying the wiping varnish and she's ready to go.
 

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BLO isn't enough protection? Can you elaborate on the wiping varnish you use and technique?
yes, I have finished most of my rifles with BLO only and have great results with it. For a gun that might be getting more exposure to nasty weather I am applying a wipe-on varnish for added protection. There are a few types available. I learned a method using Minwax Poly that really looks soft like an oil finish.
 
In my experience it's best to let the linseed oil dry for up to a month, depending on the tempurature and humidity. You can use any kind of the wipe on poly or spar varnish or whatever you can get. The trick is in the method. The thinner the better, up to a point of course. Naptha is very good for this. I use a folded up blue shop towel to apply it and to wipe it off. The shine, or the lack of it, is all in the wiping. Just make sure you look over every square inch of the stock to see that you haven't left any spot unwiped. It will show up later as a clump of finish. My other point is, the finish you have looks great. Unless you're in a really wet climate I'd just rub a little linseed on it once in awhile.
 
In my experience it's best to let the linseed oil dry for up to a month, depending on the tempurature and humidity. You can use any kind of the wipe on poly or spar varnish or whatever you can get. The trick is in the method. The thinner the better, up to a point of course. Naptha is very good for this. I use a folded up blue shop towel to apply it and to wipe it off. The shine, or the lack of it, is all in the wiping. Just make sure you look over every square inch of the stock to see that you haven't left any spot unwiped. It will show up later as a clump of finish. My other point is, the finish you have looks great. Unless you're in a really wet climate I'd just rub a little linseed on it once in awhile.
I agree 100% with your method of application- an uneven session will certainly reveal itself.
I also like the softness of the BLO finish, and have it on most of my own. I am building this for general sale and feel a more durable but still soft-sheen varnish finish is probably best.
 

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