"Stamps"

[Greenhorn]

Does anyone know a source for stamps like the Tombstone Fox used on Tradeguns. Or also other proofmarks similar (not identical) to antique ones?

Many thanks in advance...

Greenhorn

 

[Birddog6]

If you mean a trademark stamp or initial stamp, I had mine made by Everstanp. http://www.henryaevers.com/new_page_3.htm

The stamp cost me about $ 175.00

Another place that makes them is Harper Manufacturing. http://www.harpermfg.com/hm_products.html

They are said to be cheaper but have not used them. I found out about them after I had my Birddog stamp made.

This is what it looks like on a knife blade & also I now stamp the left side of the barrel at the breech on the rifles I make. This is a Damascus neck knife I made a friend out in Oregon, with my trademark on the left side of the blade. It is a lil birddog with a 6 in the middle of it.

 

[Joe Yanta]

My stamp was made by Harper Mfg. My stamp was probably easier to make than Birddog6s was. It is YANTA and then centered under my name, FORGED. I paid $65 took about 10 days. It is made from O-1 tool steel. I have stamped alot of blades with it and it is still like new. I tape my blade to my anvil (so it doesnt fly off), then hold the stamp in place where I want it with a magnet. Then I smack it with a sawed off 8 pound hammer. I think stamps like a dog or fox in a circle could be a little more expensive. I think you can email your art work to them, they down load it to a CNC engraving machine at what ever size you want.

Im happy with mine

Joe Yanta

 

[Birddog6]

:agree: Yes, that is correct, the letters & etc. are much cheaper. When have them make a shape & things as such in detail, the price climbs with the detail of the work. There is also a holder made for the stamps & you put the stamp in it, slide the blade under & ya hit the holder & it hits the stamp. I don't have one because they are made to strike a flat even surface & most of my blades are bevel ground from top to edge, thus it makes a angled surface to stamp on. So I took a brake pad tool that just happened to have w 3/8" square hole in it same size as the stamp shaft is, ground & fitted it so it will go up close to where the handle will be & I use that tool to hold the stamp flat on the beveled blade & I hit it a good hard wack with a 4# brass hammer.

It is important that you hold the tool with Something, be it a holder, vicegrips, or something, as when you hit that sucker it will leave the area & especially if you hit it with a steel hammer. I don't like hitting hardened steel with steel, thus I use the brass hammer & it is less apt to chip or fly off into the never-never land of my workshop, not to be see again for ? 15 years..... If you decide to hole it by hand I suggest a heavy pair of work gloves & still a brass hammer.

Also it is important to hit it one time, as realigning a design is hard on a beveled edge. Letters are not so bad on a flat surface but a detailed stamp is hard to hole in plade & whack & not have a double stamp..... = birddog with 8 legs & 2 tails! ha ha !

The stamps WILL NOT stamp tool steel or hardened steel. It must be done before you harden the metal or you will ruin the stamp.

 

[GobblerKnob]

I'm having a stamp made by Everstamp that looks like my Avitar. It will cost $175. I can't wait to get it! Rick

 

[Greenhorn]

Thank you all for the informations. Fear in this case it will be more clever to order my stamp here in Austria - no transport costs. Primarily I hoped to find a ready made stamp for a NorthWest Gun, simply because many companies offer Tradegun kits.

Something like this...

or like this

(letters of no importance)

Thanks again

Greenhorn

 

[Birddog6]

It appears what you are wanting is a Trademark Stamp and I don't think you are going to find a stamp as such for sale, but rather will have to have it made such as we did.
It will cost ya about $ 175. (guestimating) for the lil stamp you posted if it is small & about 3/8" x 3/4" or so.

 

[Doc Arroyo]

Have you tried contacting a company like Northstar West? Maybe they have an extra one that they would be willing to let go.

 

[Redleg130th]

The stamps WILL NOT stamp tool steel or hardened steel. It must be done before you harden the metal or you will ruin the stamp.

How are barrels proof marked? I would assume that after "proofing" the makers would not soften the steel.

This may be a dumb question, I make the assumption that barrels are hardened.

 

[musketman]

How are barrels proof marked? I would assume that after "proofing" the makers would not soften the steel.

Most proof stamps are small in design and shallow in depth, the amount of metal displaced by the stamps are really of no concern unless the barrel is thin to begin with...

On octagon barrels, the proof stamps are not centered on the flats, this allows more metal between the stamp and the bore...

On straight/tapered barrels, the proof stamps are usually down towards the breech area where the metal is thicker, again, not too much to worry about...

 

[Terry Zboril]

Redleg,
I haven't yet seen a muzzleloader barrel that was "hardened". I think BD6 was referring to the stamps for marking knives.
All the muzzleloading barrels I have worked with are fairly soft, easily filed , engraved, etc., (from many different manufacturers).
PS. Thank you for your service, watch your topknot, and Be Careful out There!! Happy Holidays!
Deepest regards,
Terry

 

[Birddog6]

That is correct, the ML barrels are not hardened & are easily stamped. What I was referring to was knife steel to be stamped before it is hardened & also a feller gets this new stamp & he kinda gets "Stamp Crazy" & wants to try it on everything.....? So I am tellin ya DON'T...... As the first time ya grab a wrench handle or something hardened & whack it you just tossed $ 175. out the window. It will flatten out the letters or design & ruin it most likely. :nono:

As for stamping the barrel, I usually stamp mine near the breech or under the barrel & it doen't have to be deep. Each person/place does the different, on a RH barrel I stamp my barrels on the left side flat adjacent to the top flat. On the LH rifles I do just the opposite. ::