Started my Kibler .32 SMR Today

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I would perhaps thin down the rim of wood around the lockplate. A lot of originals I have are thinner there.
Not typically on mountain rifles. Actually they typically had significantly more wood than this rifle has. If cutting material away ( though I wouldn’t suggest it), care should be taken to maintain the supplied shape by and form.
 
I went back and looked at all of mine, and you're right, most are not super thin. I must have been seeing things. Here are two, probably from the same era.

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Boring 2 hrs today sanding my stock😴 Also reassembled the lock and colored a couple more sample pieces of cherry trying to find a color I like

One possible problem you could encounter is the variations between your stock and the sample pieces. With any wood treatment that initiates a chemical response in the wood there can be some wide differences in results.

Here's a sort of off the wall question; what kind of wood is the supplied ramrod made of?
 
The ramrods supplied are hickory, I had an older early SMR kit and the supplied ramrod was was so bad (lots of runout and looked like a snake crawling across the ground) I trashed it and bought one from Dan Putz which had no run out and was straight and perfect. I understand Mr. Kibler started buying his ramrods from Dan as well because of the good quality. Unfortunately Dan died, I had heard someone took over his business but I don't know that for a fact.

When I ordered the ramrod for my SMR I ordered a pile of other sized blanks as well so I am fixed for life with perfect ramrod blanks to use as I need them.
 
Not typically on mountain rifles. Actually they typically had significantly more wood than this rifle has. If cutting material away ( though I wouldn’t suggest it), care should be taken to maintain the supplied shape by and form.
I gently shaped the side plate to give a little more definition to it. This looks like enough for me!

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I also made a mistake while cutting a couple of decorative lines in the cheekpiece when I was tired and they did not look good. So I thought about it and decided to cut a channel between the lines and then I am going to round over the inside edges of the channel. Couldn't think of anything else to do to correct the problem - maybe someone has a better suggestion?



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Looking good so far! I am just today starting my Kibler SMR .45 build up again after a few years of inaction. Just lazy/busy/reluctance on my part.
 
Spent 2 hrs 45 min today sanding and whiskering the stock and finishing the cheekpiece, draw filed the barrel, then finished the barrel and screws with brass black. Hope to start finishing the stock tomorrow.
Total time to date is 27 hrs 30 min.
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Another 2 hours today spent polishing and darkening the trigger guard and applying a golden brown and a cherrywood dye on the stock.

Puts me at 29 hr 30 min so far

Stock before dye
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Stock after dyed with golden brown
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stock after cherrywood dye apllied on top of golden brown
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Cherry wood. Spent 5 hrs total today applying 2 more coats of oil on the wood, darkening triggers and small parts, reassembled and tested rifle and everything appears to be working fine.

Still have to do more fitting of the screws in the toe plate to get them flush and I’m going to do a few more coats of oil on the stock. Plan to test fire it on Monday morning! I’m pretty happy with the wood color.

Total time spent to date @35 hrs

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I've been lurking in the shadows following your build but have yet to comment. Just want to say it's looking great so far and I'm really enjoying seeing it all come together!
 
Thank you! It’s been fun and I didn’t mess up anything too badly. Hope it shoots good! I’ll post more pics when I finish cleaning up a few things on the rifle.
 
Looks like your stock absorbed a lot of finish in the dark figured spots and got a little rough, I had walnut do that and sanded it back to smooth with 400 grit paper and then green Scotch Bright pad before the next coat.

Go to 33.40 on this video to see how Kibler does it.



If you apply your finish with a piece of green or red scotch bright pad and scrub it in it will give you a beautiful satin finish and further fill the pores.

This is coat 5 with Tru Oil on walnut with a scotch bright pad, this way it doesn't have that phony high gloss finish that in my opinion looks out of place on an B/P gun. I did seal this stock with a stock sealer before I applied any Tru-oil.

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Looks like your stock absorbed a lot of finish in the dark figured spots and got a little rough, I had walnut do that and sanded it back to smooth with 400 grit paper and then green Scotch Bright pad before the next coat.

Go to 33.40 on this video to see how Kibler does it.



If you apply your finish with a piece of green or red scotch bright pad and scrub it in it will give you a beautiful satin finish and further fill the pores.

This is coat 5 with Tru Oil on walnut with a scotch bright pad, this way it doesn't have that phony high gloss finish that in my opinion looks out of place on an B/P gun. I did seal this stock with a stock sealer before I applied any Tru-oil.

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I agree Eric - that end grain really darkened up. I’ve been applying oil using a gray Scotch Brite pad to work it in - I’ll use a green pad the next few coats!
 
Went to the range today and I am more than pleased with my SMR even though I forgot my shooting bag with my measure and powder horn😫. I had a partial can of 3f in my bucket and a small measure that looks like it started at 30 grains - I have to check it tomorrow when I go back to shoot the postal match with my buddies.

I shot a couple to check operation and then posted this target and shot 3 times from the bench to check my sights. Shot low and a little left at 25 yds. (Picture won’t display normally - always looks sideways)
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Spent some time moving and filing the front sight - had to file about 1/2 of the front sight down to bring the shots up to my aiming point. Those SMR sights are not easy on my 71 year old eyes!

The last target was shot offhand at 25 yds with a 6 o’clock hold on the small bull. 3 in the black and two went a little high - have to get used to this trigger.

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I’ve been using Siler locks all my life and always thought they were the best, but I have to say, these Kibler locks are a couple of notches up! I think I shot 30 times total today testing different patches, powder charges (estimated changes because the measure I had was not calibrated). That lock fired every time without ever touching the flint except to wipe it clean about every 10 shots. I am impressed!

Rifle was easy to load between shots and I was using.390 balls with0.022” pillow ticking wet with a Ballistol and water mix. I wiped it out every 10 shots to see how much fouling was building up and there was’t much there.
 
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