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Osprey

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Getting the stuff together to start rifle number 2. Got all the metal trim (all German Silver) and the lock (Chambers large siler), figure it'll keep me busy for awhile working on these parts until I can get the stock and barrel. Planning on a Lehigh stle stock, fairly plain wood, and a 42" GM straight bbl for this one, probably a .40 for targets and squirrels.

MVC-013F.jpg
 
oldarmy said:
That patchbox looks like a BEAR to inlett

And it's even scarier when you hold it! Got more tiny points than a gross of ninja stars. :shocked2:
 
Pierced patchboxes are so much fun! :cursing:

When you get to installing that thing, I suggest that you buy some of the Magic Glue Gel and after forming the surface to match the stocks curves use a lot of the gel to glue the finale to the stock. (Don't forget to file the 2 degree angle on all of the edges).

The glue will keep the metal from moving while you stab in all around the outside and the inside.
After you've gone around the entire thing at least twice with the stabbing in you can then break the patchbox finale loose from the stock with a couple of good stout whacks with a rubber or leather mallet.
 
:thumbsup: Have fun.....looks like that patchbox will keep you out of trouble for quite a few evenings.
 
Osprey:
I know there are several ways to inlet a patchbox but you may want to take a look at this link
INLAYING LARGE PIECES LIKE PATCHBOXES

The link in that link called "INSTALLING INLAYS" might be a good post for you to read too. It will help with some of those fancy patterns you have to work on.

By the way, several times in my posts about installing inlays and patchboxes you will see me say things like, "Using a pencil, draw...".
I need to mention that using a pencil is (IMO) only good for laying out the locations of the inlay. NEVER use a pencil line that is drawn on the stock as a guide to cut the actual pocket.
ALWAYS use the actual inlay, glued or clamped to the stock as the guide for a pointed Exacto razor knife to stab in the edge of the pocket.

Speaking of Exacto (and similar) knifes get one that uses the #2 blade. Its larger size makes it a better choice for this work.
Also, use a whet stone or sandpaper to remove the sharp edge of the blade right back where it meets the handle. You won't need this edge back there and removing it will keep you from having to solve the big mystery.
What mystery? Well, as your working suddenly you will notice red blobs appearing on the wood.
"What the hell is that?" you will say. Then you will find that you slid your finger forward onto the edge of the blade and your leaking your fluids onto the stock. :cursing:
 
Well, ended up going with a .45 bbl, which should be here any day along with the stock, but been busy working on metal. Got the trigger guard and sideplate done, and just finished polishing the lock. All praise the great Buffing Wheel! :bow:

MVC-003F.jpg
 
The lock looks great, just don't ding it up too much disassembling and reassembling it during the build

:hatsoff:
 
Got this beastie in! Would feel relieved, except I've looked at the engraving patterns and know what's next for it. :surrender:

MVC-017F-1.jpg
 
Yeah, I had been looking for it for awhile, and stumbled across it finally. I noticed you have the same sideplates and polished Siler locks that I have for the two rifles being built for me. I can't wait to see how your rifle turns out. Especially with that color stain you mentioned in the PM. My rifles are gonna have wooden patchboxes, but that patchbox you got really looks great! Very nice job on inletting it. Musta been a booger to do. :hatsoff:
 

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