Starting a Hudson Valley Fowler

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I moved to Vermont in the meanwhile and managed to finish my early English trade gun but then got hooked on turkey hunting. I’ve had success but all within 20-25 yards with my cylinder bore early New England fowler. Looking for more range i picked up a Colerain 20 ga turkey choke barrel.

BUILD IN PROGRESS NOW
I settled on a club-butt fowler for this build and have the barrel in now. I will use a TRS early Wilson trade gun flintlock which I am assembling. This one is based on CB 6 and CB 7 in Grinslades book on Colonial fowlers. These both have double cheekpieces and shell-shaped carving.


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I’ve been making hardware. I’ve got thimbles made of 0.032 sheet brass.

Many club butt fowlers and Hudson Valley fowlers had buttplates with long, tapering tangs extending along the comb. These are hard to find off the shelf. Mike Brooks has a couple, I think, and so does The Rifle Shoppe. The ones from TRS are exceptionally thick and most are of a form seldom seen on club butt fowlers, with a pronounced heel extending rearward. Anyway, from time to time I make a buttplate for a project because I want something different.
So, today I formed a buttplate from 0.062” sheet brass. I did a test buttplate out of thinner stock before putting the hammer to my precious long piece of 1/16” brass.

I use forms to shape buttplates. These include wooden forms and actual buttplate castings to guide the bending and forming. Here’s a paper template, forms, and work in progress. I often leave a little extra width in the area of the heel bend, because I’m not sure how much stretch I’ll get from peening. Then I trim as necessary.

Sometimes I add a puddle of solder in the heel to strengthen it, so it does not dent in case of hard use.

Sorry the pictures are out of order and there are dupes. Doing this on my phone.
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I’ve been making hardware. I’ve got thimbles made of 0.032 sheet brass.

Many club butt fowlers and Hudson Valley fowlers had buttplates with long, tapering tangs extending along the comb. These are hard to find off the shelf. Mike Brooks has a couple, I think, and so does The Rifle Shoppe. The ones from TRS are exceptionally thick and most are of a form seldom seen on club butt fowlers, with a pronounced heel extending rearward. Anyway, from time to time I make a buttplate for a project because I want something different.
So, today I formed a buttplate from 0.062” sheet brass. I did a test buttplate out of thinner stock before putting the hammer to my precious long piece of 1/16” brass.

I use forms to shape buttplates. These include wooden forms and actual buttplate castings to guide the bending and forming. Here’s a paper template, forms, and work in progress. I often leave a little extra width in the area of the heel bend, because I’m not sure how much stretch I’ll get from peening. Then I trim as necessary.

Sometimes I add a puddle of solder in the heel to strengthen it, so it does not dent in case of hard use.

Sorry the pictures are out of order and there are dupes. Doing this on my phone.
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Nifty. I have a swage block I use when forming buttplates. You get great results with your methods .
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Nifty. I have a swage block I use when forming buttplates. You get great results with your methods .
.
Mike, I had too many free-hand failures! I have a swage block but it’s rough. One winter project is to polish it with an angle grinder because it scars up brass pretty noticeably.
 
Mike, I had too many free-hand failures! I have a swage block but it’s rough. One winter project is to polish it with an angle grinder because it scars up brass pretty noticeably.
Yep , I always feel I'm right on the edge making sheet buttplates. Things get wonky fast!
 
I hate looking at these threads and seeing how slow I am. Getting there though. The side plate side has near identical carving and cheekpiece which seems to be a feature of this maker, whoever it was. I’m guessing coastal Massachusetts or Rhodes Island with the nautilus shell carving. I’ll pretend it was a sea captain’s gun
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