Starting again on Lancaster

[boondocker]

Well I am ready to go to it. This inletting is nerve racking business.

 

[ricklandes]

Are you setting the tang intact with the barrel or you are just showing us the barrel in the stock for the pics? I set my plug w/o the barrel in place and then set the barrel in with the plug inserted...I find it easier to make sure the plug is set tight to the stock channel end.

I know some do it as one...I was just curious.

The good news is you've begun again! Yeah a project that is fun for the New Year!
Keep us posted please

 

[mazo kid]

You're doing it, just go slow and use an inletting black (or lipstick, etc.) to mark the spots that need removing and soon you will be done. I prefer to inlet the barrel first to make sure it fits the channel and end of the stock, then install the breechplug/tang into the barrel and inlet that next. What ever method you feel confident in doing will be OK.

 

[Zonie]

When using inletting black or lipstick while inletting the tang also remember that some of it will be wiped off of the tang on the sides when it is lowered into the mortice.

You should only concern yourself with the marks on the bottom of the mortice to determine where the wood needs to be removed.
Every so often, use your pointed razor knife held with the blade parallel with the sides of the tang and running it closely down the sides of the tang to widen the tang slot.
You only want to remove the wood that is pinching the sides of the tang and no more.

By doing this, when the tang is fully inletted into the wood, the wood on both sides will be fully in contact with the metal and there will be no gaps.

Also remember to cut the length of the slot so that it clears the end of the tang by about 1/64 of an inch. This small gap will prevent the tang from splitting the wrist a few years from now.

 

[boondocker]

Thanks fellas it helps to get a little encouragement. Rick I am inletting the tang with the barrel. I have the tang filed to a bevel so as to keep a tight fit while lowering the tang.Jim that is a good idea and I will be sure to do it as in my neck of the woods stocks seem to swell and shrink. Mazo I am takin it slow and steady I wanna make something out of this pile of iron and wood and I will be bugging you fellas regular. I will post pics and expect critics and advice. Happy New Years to all. Steve :hatsoff:

 

[Birddog6]

I hope you have the lock inlet first, breechplug face marked on the barrel, vent liner center marked & you KNOW FOR SURE where the vent liner is going to go BEFORE you inlet the tang. If you are going this way you are OK. If not you have to back up.....

On a Precarve stock, barrel position is set by where the Vent Liner is going to be. The only way to know that for sure is to inlet the lock first.

For some reason, some guys keep putting in the barrels & then are shocked to find the vent liner is in the wrong place, and this has been repeated many many times in the past 3-4 years.

So, proper proceedure is: Inlet the lock 75 to 95% of the way. Mark the vent liner center on the barrel where it is supposed to be. THEN inlet the barrel in the proper position. Now put the breechplug/tang on the barrel & inlet the tang after you have the barrel in the proper position.

:thumbsup:

 

[MikeChapin]

I do just the opposite. I inlet the barrel, put the tang on and then inlet the tang area. I mark where the breechplug face is and come forward 1/8" and mark where the liner will go. I then inlet the lock to conform to where the touch hole will be. When the lock is inletted it tells where where to place the trigger(s) which tells me where to set the buttplate to get the proper LOP. Just another way of doing things.

If I am working with a preinlet stock then I pretty well have to go the way Birddog does.

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, on a NON-preinlet stock or a blank, I inlet the barrel first, then do the tang, then do the lock.

If the stock is shaped & has no inlets but the barrel channel & RR hole drilled, I would do the barrel, tang, lock.

Since he is new at this, I am guessing it is a preinlet stock. If so, he can not put the lock where he wants it, it goes where the inlet is, thus why you do the lock first, barrel second, tang third on a pre-inlet.
:thumbsup:

 

[alaskasmoker]

Thanks for this thread! Just got my precarve stock yesterday. Was planning on hacking away at the barrel and tang first off cause thats what the books and videos say to do :shocked2:

 

[Birddog6]

You have to understand those guys doing those videos have done LOTS of them & allot of them have done allot of misc. prior to thing there so the video is a 2 hrs rather than 150 hr video. Stock is perfect, all inlet cuts near perfect, etc. The didn't just grab one out of the stock bin, it is the Best one they had to work with.

Also, no two precarves are alike Unless the same guy is precarving them off the same Exact pattern. Most venders selling precarves have their Own pattern at the place they are being precarved, so a Chambers I.Haines precarve is not going to be like Tip Curtis I.Haines nor a Dunlap I.Haines, nor a Jacks Mtn. Stock I.Haines.
(*see note)

That being said, IF the lock is inlet, regardless of who's precarve it is, I would do the Lock 75-90% of the way first, then the barrel to Be Sure you have the barrel in the correct position for the vent liner to be in the coprrect position...... You can mose allot of things around, but if the lock inlet is there normally you don't have much adjustment to vary it any withoput gluing in wood & etc.

Good luck on your build.

Keith

:thumbsup:

*Note: It is also best to get the trim & parts from the guy you got the stock from, cause again you run into parts not fitting because someone used a dif. triggerguard, buttplate, sideplate, lock, trigger, etc. On a I.haines, Tip uses a Bivins trigger, but on Dunlaps he uses a York trigger, Chambers uses a pinned trigger. Same way with buttplates, 3 dif stocks cut for 3 dif buttplates.....

 

[boondocker]

Thanks for the heads up Birddog. Mine is not pre inletted and I am doing it the way Jame Turpin does it in the video. In both the videos Turpin and the Ehlert set does not show that and I am glad you pointed that out as I would had done it with an inletted stock. This forum is great as with the people on it watching out for folks. Great fellows on here and in muzzle loading in general. Thanks Steve :thumbsup:

 

[boondocker]

Ok fellas Meteorman got me going again and my side jobs are slowing down again, people break these horseless carriages to often lol. :grin:

 

[boondocker]

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I guess I am a worried wart, my barrel channel is .490 deep and my barrel is .885. How high does the side flats ussually stick out of the wood. I may have to deepen the channel to get the tang deeper.? :hmm:

 

[Goldhunter]

I sympathize. I need to get started on mine again. :shake: It's been so cold in the evenings (when I get time to tinker) I can't get the space heater to take the edge of the chill; so working on the build isn't moving along at all.

 

[bioprof]

If your barrel channel was pre-inlet, you shouldn't have to deepen it. Put some inletting black on the bottom of the barrel, and place the barrel into the inlet. Keep inletting the tang deeper until you see black transferred from the bottom of the barrel to the bottom flat of the stock. Your tang should be below the surface of the wood at that point. If part of the tang is above the surface when the barrel is seated into the barrel channel, then you'll have to file it down flush with the stock. On every one I've done though, the tang was below the level of the wood when the barrel was seated.

Ordinarily on a precarved stock, you have to lower the top of the forestock along the side of the barrel so that only 1/2 of the barrel is exposed. Be sure that the barrel is fully seated before you do this though.

 

[boondocker]

Thanks Bio

I think I was getting nervous and completely stopped having sense. I will blacken the barrel and go from there.

 

[boondocker]

Hello all
I finished inletting the barrel and breach. I cut and installed the tennons in the barrel. The first two tennons I used an old file for a safe edge. Filed like wet paper. So old cheapo was up town and bought a new file, what a difference. Meteor was right. :wink:

 

[alaskasmoker]

That last pic... Is the barrel and tang down as far as you want it? Seems that when you look from the side you want the tang flush with the wood. Thats what I gather anyway.

Just asking cause thats how mine looked when I couldnt get it to go down anyfarther without the liner going up over a flat.

I sent the stock back because of that.

 

[boondocker]

When I have it clamped its in almost flush, I am waiting till I put in the tang screw to finish dressing it up.The tennons are in and tight. Two of them stick up a hair above the barrel but I will file them down flush as well as I will have to lower the depth of the tennons as to not penetrate the ramrod channel.So far so good except a little gap around the tang. This is my learning gun and boy am I learning. :shake: