Starting point for my .44 G&G

[MosinRob]

Picked up a .44 caliber G&G. Its a brass frame. Whats the basic target powder charge range for a gun like this?
(like 15-30?) Is ff and fff ok in it? I heard you should be careful with brass frame. Also what kind of ball, lube, patch or no patch combo works for these? I know it's probably been asked and i know every gun is different. I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.

 

[necchi]

No patch.
The ball should be over the chamber size by a few thousands, and a small ring of lead shaved off the ball while seating it in the chamber.
Most guys use a .451-.454 or .457 ball, it pays off to measure the chamber diameter for the best fit.
20-22grns of 3F equvilant (or less) is where many find accuracy and still keep it safe for the brass frames, 2F can be used also.
An under ball wad and/or grease over the ball is used too.

Start reading,, Really, the archives here are full of priceless info and you don't have to deal with current debate of different technique. When you see the same thing repeated many times in many threads you can beleive it's probably true, :wink:

 

[1911nutjob]

Picked up a .44 caliber G&G. Its a brass frame. Whats the basic target powder charge range for a gun like this?
(like 15-30?) Is ff and fff ok in it? I heard you should be careful with brass frame. Also what kind of ball, lube, patch or no patch combo works for these? I know it's probably been asked and i know every gun is different. I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.

I think 15 would be a little light, but I wouldn't go past 20 or so with a brasser myself-if it were steel I'd use about 25 grains in comparison, excluding walkers/dragoons/ROA's. 2f will work but my experience is 3f burns cleaner in these, YMMV. The ball or conical should be dead soft pure lead, and you don't use a patch with a revolver. The lube will create some debate here; I custom blend my own using crisco, bacon grease, and one brick of canning paraffin in enough quantity to fill a soup can. Soft enough to dispense but with a higher melting point so you don't end up with a runny, greasy pistol.

 

[Zonie]

I probably don't need to say it but I would stick to loading and shooting roundballs instead of bullets, especially in a brass framed pistol.

Bullets are much more difficult to get into the chamber than round balls are and the stress of loading them must be taken by not only the loading lever, but the cylinder arbor the barrel's attached to.

Bullets, because of their length, also are more difficult to get thru the barrel so they will put a lot of stress on the area where the cylinder arbor attaches to the frame when the gun is fired.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Pietta recommends a MAX LOAD of 25 grains in a .44 brasser. It will function fine with 20.
Every Pietta I own is chambered for the .454 RB, rather than the .451 or .457. I would start there. The correct size ball will give noticeable resistance and shave a lead ring while seating the ball.
FF will work but give lower pressures and velocities. With a low charge (20-25gr)like you will be using I would recommend 3f or Pyrodex P. If using 777 you need to decrease max charges by 15%. Better yet, don't use it.
Wads; use .44/.45 cal lubed felt wads over the powder (under ball) or use a grease such as Bore Butter or Crisco over the seated ball.
Caps; use Remington #10s
Ball, start with .454 RB You should have a bit of resistance while seating and shave off a nice lead ring in the process.
Enjoy your new pistol and feel free to PM me with any questions!