Steel plate for Range

[hangfast]

I would also suggest using some round bale baler belting to hang the target, rather than chain.

The chain / hanger is not exposed to bullet damage with the Hang Fast System. The chain is only 3 links long.
The short chain section allows for extreme movement while retaining the plate.

12 Ga. slug on 12 inch plate video

 

[Griz44Mag]

The chain / hanger is not exposed to bullet damage with the Hang Fast System. The chain is only 3 links long.
The short chain section allows for extreme movement while retaining the plate.

12 Ga. slug on 12 inch plate video

I have found that the the chains are easy to protect by not shooting them in the first place.

 

[Ranch 13]

Local club, funds usually pretty tight. Easy and inexpensive way to go , get various shapes of AR plate from their scrap, bit's and pieces bin, local farmer or implement dealer get some used baler belt.

 

[Brokennock]

Local club, funds usually pretty tight. Easy and inexpensive way to go , get various shapes of AR plate from their scrap, bit's and pieces bin, local farmer or implement dealer get some used baler belt.

I seem to recall hearing that there are replaceable plates on public works snow plow blades that are suitable, and can be had used when they are replaced.

 

[Ranch 13]

Those are either similar to grader blades, very narrow but long, or curved. But usually can be had for the asking. The skid plates on the bottom of the truck blades sometimes are flat enough to shoot at without much chance of ricochet, but generally wore pretty thin and won't last long,

 

[Griz44Mag]

I seem to recall hearing that there are replaceable plates on public works snow plow blades that are suitable, and can be had used when they are replaced.

Since I shoot at my targets with a lot more than soft muzzleloading projectiles, I would much rather spend the money up front and get steel that I know what it is and what it is rated for.
Some hardened steel is brittle - it will shatter under impacts of high energy.
If you shoot at a public range most of them (the ones that do allow steel) will require purpose made steel targets with rated materials and hung using methods as detailed by the maker.
It's an insurance thing of course - to help lawyer proof a business that is already under siege by the lefties.
If you are on a private range - then the risk is all on you - hopefully your insurance will cover you.
What could go wrong you say? There are dozens of videos out there that detail that topic.
I love shooting steel targets - and want to do it safely - and not give the grabbers any evidence that helps them ban yet another small part of our sport.

 

[sheriff john]

Two examples of steel target injuries - We used steel "pepper poppers" for firearms training at various distances, some were crafted at a local machine shop using what we thought was hard steel. These were perhaps 2 1/2' tall, fell backwards when hit. Slugs (thousands of them) eventually caused them to bow and craters from being shot by everything appeared. 25 yard shot sent part of a slug back 180 degrees, hit one of my deputies in the chest hard enough to leave a healthy bruise thru a winter coat. Switched to commercial steel targets - very expensive but no further problems.

#2 - Home made "groundhog" target (swinging sort of) moved from 100 yards to 30 yards by someone, no longer swinging. Member shot it with a .243. Bullet (mostly jacket) did a "180", entered just above his wrist, travelled upwards inside his forearm. Had it hit in a vital spot, he would have died.

Commercial steel targets today are excellent overall - fun! Manufacturers test their target systems. Follow their instructions.

 

[hangfast]

Any craters or deep dents will cause the bullet / frags to come back at high velocity. Pistols and muzzleloaders don't damage mild steel but there is always somebody with a stinking AK that will shoot your mild steel and leave a big fat crater in it. THAT is when accidents happen if you continue to shoot at that piece of steel..... so a good rule of thumb is always use AR500 for shooting targets.

 

[Stony Broke]

On my range, I use all kinds of steel targets, including different sizes of propane bottles and lots of different hanging steel stuff. This one is what I call "Crater Man" as he has taken a lot of shots from mostly modern stuff at about 60 yds. He is about 5/8 inch thick and will still take a lot of lead.

 

[Griz44Mag]

On my range, I use all kinds of steel targets, including different sizes of propane bottles and lots of different hanging steel stuff. This one is what I call "Crater Man" as he has taken a lot of shots from mostly modern stuff at about 60 yds. He is about 5/8 inch thick and will still take a lot of lead.

Note to self - "NEVER" accept an invitation from this person or offer to go shoot with him. Stay as far away as possible.

 

[hangfast]

On my range, I use all kinds of steel targets, including different sizes of propane bottles and lots of different hanging steel stuff. This one is what I call "Crater Man" as he has taken a lot of shots from mostly modern stuff at about 60 yds. He is about 5/8 inch thick and will still take a lot of lead.

Note to self - "NEVER" accept an invitation from this person or offer to go shoot with him. Stay as far away as possible.

Ditto !!!! You'll catch a frag in the di*k

 

[Stony Broke]

Never had a problem with the steel targets thus far and I've had them up for quite some time. Things like propane bottles just get holes in them and after they get too shot up, I just take them down and throw them away. Other targets are mostly 3/8 steel and hanging at an angle to deflect the bullets right into the ground. Never had any di*k problems on the range, as deflection and such is set up to protect the shooter. Crater man is far enough away and at an angle that I couldn't imagine a problem with it either.

 

[toot]

On my range, I use all kinds of steel targets, including different sizes of propane bottles and lots of different hanging steel stuff. This one is what I call "Crater Man" as he has taken a lot of shots from mostly modern stuff at about 60 yds. He is about 5/8 inch thick and will still take a lot of lead.

WOW!! now that rely is spooky!!!

 

[Eutycus]

Gee, and I thought mine was dimpled.

 

[jcs266]

Here is one by Hang Fast Targets that will capture your lead for re-melting.
The tire captures virtually all of the lead. (wide tires work best)
Hangs on any T Post.

Multiple targets on a single T Post

As soon as I saw your Targets I ordered one - great idea. Mine arrives on Friday.
I cast my ML projectiles, so the tire catching the fragments will be much appreciated.

I went with 1/2” AR500 x 12”

 

[hangfast]

Never had a problem with the steel targets thus far and I've had them up for quite some time. Things like propane bottles just get holes in them and after they get too shot up, I just take them down and throw them away. Other targets are mostly 3/8 steel and hanging at an angle to deflect the bullets right into the ground. Never had any di*k problems on the range, as deflection and such is set up to protect the shooter. Crater man is far enough away and at an angle that I couldn't imagine a problem with it either.

You never have a problem until you do. Shooting at cratered steel or other irregular shaped steel junk WILL get you in the end..... just a matter of when.
I say this because I have been hit in the DI*K with a .45 bullet that bounced back off a bowling pin (hollow cavity in the pin re-directed the bullet) I also witnessed a guy get his cheek laid open and a couple teeth knocked out by hitting a single crater in a plate rack. Another guy caught a frag in his hand and had to get surgery to repair his tendon. My wife caught a frag at a shooting match that lodged in her neck touching her carotid artery. I could go on and on but you get the idea.
Should you eventually experience the worst...... AR500 steel will seem like a minor expense compared to the hospital bills.

WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND KEEP CHILDREN AWAY

 

[Rifleman1776]

Err on the side of caution and go thicker. A dent in a steel plate or steel backstop is worse than a small hole. Once the plate becomes dented or deformed we can no longer predict where projectiles will go once they hit it.

An ml roundball will dent most steel depending on caliber, charge, etc. Predicting where a ball will go after hitting a steel plate is a fantasy thing. A soft lead round ball will disintegrate on impact. Shooting steel is a relatively safe activity. FWW, I used to shoot Man-O-Mano with modern pistols. These swinging, side by side, targets were usually only a few feet from the firing line. Never a problem. But, make that.....BUT......I once manufactured steel targets and sold them. During one test at the range, using a heavy immovable steel target and modern pistol with hard lead projectile I did have a blow back that hit and wounded my elbow. The targets MUST swing.

 

[Stony Broke]

An ml roundball will dent most steel depending on caliber, charge, etc. Predicting where a ball will go after hitting a steel plate is a fantasy thing. A soft lead round ball will disintegrate on impact. Shooting steel is a relatively safe activity. FWW, I used to shoot Man-O-Mano with modern pistols. These swinging, side by side, targets were usually only a few feet from the firing line. Never a problem. But, make that.....BUT......I once manufactured steel targets and sold them. During one test at the range, using a heavy immovable steel target and modern pistol with hard lead projectile I did have a blow back that hit and wounded my elbow. The targets MUST swing.

I totally agree with the swinging of the targets. I shot IHMSA for many years and did see a few guys get some small pecks taken at them from the closer targets. My targets at 100 yds. are still hanging from chains and hanging at an angle.

 

[hangfast]

A dueling tree is great practice for ML's. We use this one to work on our reloading times. Put two plates on each side and 2 shooters will compete to knock their targets around before the other guy. Fastest reload wins (except if you miss)

Plate sizes range 8", 6", 4", 3" and 2 inch Thickness range 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"
AR500 plates
AR500 center post armor
AR500 stand crossmember armor
no welds on the AR500

Easily adjustable for hillsides, uneven ground, forward tilt and side tilt.

 

[J. Paul]

we have a are head with a lag bolt welded to that was screwed Into a log end to split a ball into 2 clay pigeons. Found out that the ball fragments could create a rounded pocket that would send larger pieces back to firing line about 20 inches above ground level after about 30 to 40 shots if conditions matched