steel screws

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Track of the Wolf, but for most applications you really want low dome head screws for gun making. There are other sources also.
 
I've had problems with some of the "unplated" screws from TOW. Even after the Muriatic acid treatment trick they still will not take blueing or browning or heat blue. That tells me that they are an alloy, not steel as advertised.
 
I've purchased oval headed unplated screws from a few suppliers and have never had problems w/ the metal....my biggest complaint is that the threaded length is too short and on some, the slots are badly off center.

All the screws used have the oval heads modified and all are then case hardened to prevent "buggered" slots. Haven't had any problems w/ the ones that are browned......Fred
 
I'd rather have the threaded area too short than too long...then you can run a die up easily to make them exactly the length needed so they bottom and index correctly.

I know what you mean about the slots though...especially on lock nails. I like to use a 8-32 forward and 10-32 back and sometimes it's tough to get matching slots...even from the say retailer/maker. I try to error on the side of narrow slots everytime and then file in a taper.

Now depending on the gun your building off center slots is OK. Many original screws had off center slots. Now, on one of those sterile artsy guns that some build, it would look odd.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
MLBS has a good selection of steel "oval" head screws, But I don't know if they are "period correct" for the Hawken half stock that I'm finishing up on which has all steel furniture on it.
 
I couldn't find any really good reproductions so I bought flat headed screws and slightly beveled them. Some of the oval heads being sold are too rounded.
 
I recently refilled my dwindling supplies with slotted screws and various bolts from "Fasten All Inc.". They are plated but are reasonably priced. I remove the plating by burning it off with a propane torch and brushing the residue off with a wire brush or steel wool.
 
On the shorter oval headed wood screws used for Pboxes, etc., some of these woodscrews have 1/3 of the "in the wood" length unthreaded. For the buttplate I buy longer than necessary oval headed wood screws because of the long unthreaded length. The unthreaded length does vary on wood screws, but isn't apparent until they're in the shop. Much of the "dome" on the oval head is removed before Kasiniting.....Fred
 
Got it. You were referring to the thread length on wood screws and I to machine screws. A little harder to thread wood screws but can be done. :wink:

Enjoy, J.D.
 
wild bill 2 said:
I remove the plating by burning it off with a propane torch and brushing the residue off with a wire brush or steel wool.

Soak them in house-hold vinegar. This will remove the zinc-plating and leave you a grey steel surface.
 
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