Stiff hammer Euroarms Rogers and Spencer
- Thread starter Jonah Hex
- Start date
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The "acceptably light" trigger pull will get closer to "dangerously light" the lighter you make the mainspring . . . which is how you lighten the hammer pull. You'll end up having to address the trigger pull as well. Trigger sear engagement is more important than trigger spring weight.
Mike
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Lightening the main spring to make the pistol easier to cock will also make the pistol less reliable. The design of this and the Remington are always stiffer than a Colt. The spring isn’t that much beefier but the way it feels makes it seem less easy to cycle the action. If you thin the spring much have a spare new one in hand to get the pistol shooting again.
Jonah Hex
32 Cal
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I have replaced springs before and it never made the gun unsafe. You have to have the hammer strike hard enough to bust caps. In my experience unsafe triggers have more to do with worn out sears and sear springs.
But if the hammer draw is too stiff, coupled with the odd shape of the Rogers grip you have a hammer that is likely to slip during cocking. I feel that's more unsafe than anything else.
But if the hammer draw is too stiff, coupled with the odd shape of the Rogers grip you have a hammer that is likely to slip during cocking. I feel that's more unsafe than anything else.
Funny how folks view the Italian copies as "all" of them being like "theirs" . . . If yours has a great trigger . . . they all have a great trigger. If yours has a heavy hammer . . . they all have heavy hammers. Nothing could be further from the truth!!
Trigger pull weight is a combination of the sear engagement angle, main spring weight and trigger spring weight . . . in that order. That's how you can have a 3lb hammer draw AND a 3lb trigger pull . . . even if the hammer starts out at 8lbs with a "hair" trigger.
Therefore, changing the main spring to a lighter draw weight can easily make a dangerously light trigger, depending on the sear angle of engagement.
Likewise, a lighter main isn't necessarily the reason for "light strikes" otherwise, how could you have 4lb hammer draws with 100 % reliability ? The MAIN reason for light hits is bolt arm tension along with high cam height.
Mike
Trigger pull weight is a combination of the sear engagement angle, main spring weight and trigger spring weight . . . in that order. That's how you can have a 3lb hammer draw AND a 3lb trigger pull . . . even if the hammer starts out at 8lbs with a "hair" trigger.
Therefore, changing the main spring to a lighter draw weight can easily make a dangerously light trigger, depending on the sear angle of engagement.
Likewise, a lighter main isn't necessarily the reason for "light strikes" otherwise, how could you have 4lb hammer draws with 100 % reliability ? The MAIN reason for light hits is bolt arm tension along with high cam height.
Mike
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I don't, but my R&S is awkward to cock; due to design, can't single-handedly cock & fire like a 873 SSA. That's ok, it's a great repro! Good luck!
I think the way too high hammer spur is part of the problem. I am thinking of reworking the spur on mine at some point to make it a bit lower and easier get to. The nice thing is the hammer stroke is much shorter than most revolvers.
Why I got rid of mine. Hell of a time trying to cock that thing.
