Stock blank size question.

[Ozz]

Had to take down a maple tree in the yard. The school has a saw mill and will cut it for me. What is a good thickness for a blank?

 

[The Crisco Kid]

It depends on the type of finished stock wanted. 2 1/2" is good enough for most stocks. 8" width, or depth, is enough to allow for drop at heel and toe.

 

[oldwood]

Thickness would be 2 1/2 " to 2 3/4 " for most long rifles. If drying in the air , one year per inch of thickness. Don't dry it in a hot attic , you might cause checks.

 

[Rob M.]

For rifle ,2.5" thickness minimum , fowler/ trade gun 2" minimum . These are dry sizes and minimum finish sizes so have them cut a bit thicker cause they will dry and shrink . Also ....if the blank isnt vertical grain there's a good chance it will warp so even thicker is better so.it can be put through a plane , later after dry , to take the bow out. Always paint the ends

 

[tenngun]

Southren mountain ins or Ohio style might resemble a knife blade. Well not quite, but close, an inch and a half and that only the cheap plate. Much no thicker then a quarter
While a early Lancaster or jaegar or trade gun might be well over two inches across the butt
Cut wide
You can’t put wood back on

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Also, I've heard that it helps prevent checking to paint the ends of the blank with a good paint or heavy wax. I think it depends on the storing humidity and temperature. I don't know for sure but it won't cost much to do it.

 

[IanH]

I use wax based bullet lubricant sticks (have tons of it from experiments) and rub the ends to get a solid coating. Shellac is really good, paint is better than nothing. 2.5" for a longrifle unless you're building one of those Colonial oars with a huge cheek rest, a lot of cast off, and a large barrel that requires 2" or more across the cheeks. I like more than 8" wide, 10" minimum so you can dodge sapwood, bark inclusions, bug holes, knots, and other things that pop up when you start cutting into it. Along those lines, I also like to leave about an inch of wood outside the blank line from lock to toe and lock to heel above the comb, this allows a couple inches of fore-aft relocation should you run into something unexpected with the band saw.

 

[oldwood]

To prevent checks in nice wood that is just blanked out from planks , heat up some wax in a skillet , and stick each end of the blank in the wax. Guarenteed to prevent checks , well , almost.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I used barn paint. Slather it on thick. I also paint NY areas of intense burl as those areas tend to come apart during the drying process.

 

[sportster73hp]

Anchorseal is the “ paint” recommended by sawmill log guys.
If they are free logs, cut oversize. I cut slabs of 2.5-3.0 inches. Slabbing will allow you to see the whole grain. Pick what you like and cut to allow grain flow thru the wrist.
Slabbing may also allow you to sell unused slabs to someone making live edge furniture.

 

[longcruise]

Also, I've heard that it helps prevent checking to paint the ends of the blank with a good paint or heavy wax. I think it depends on the storing humidity and temperature. I don't know for sure but it won't cost much to do it.

Essential to do it immediately.

 

[ZUG]

Back in 1974 I purchased a 10-foot-long log X 30" in diameter from a lumber yard and had them cut it into 3" thick planks. I sealed the ends with wax and air dried it for about 1-1/2 years. It shrank a little over a 1/8" in thickness and had some minor end checking on some of the planks. If I were to do it over I would have the planks cut to 2-1/2" thickness as I lost a fair bit of wood when I had them cut to 3" thickness. I feel that the 2-1/2" thickness will take care of a wide range of rifle styles even after the shrinkage after drying. Hope this info helps .

P.S. expect to have help carrying the planks as they WILL be HEAVY before and after drying!

 

[MSW]

figure out your barrel length and that will "drive the train" on how long to make the blank ... i would go with 64 to 68 inches ... you want at least ten inches at the butt and i like three at the muzzle ... as far as thickness, i go with three, but that's just me ...

it will take about three years to dry, and don't try to rush things or you'll generate a bunch of problems and quite possibly ruin the blank. I put mine in my basement, which isn't too hot or too cold, and has a dehumidifier running at the other end of my shop ... i paint the ends with melted paraffin (from those scent candles that the wife likes so much ... be very careful when you melt them down)... you can get magic paint from a woodowrking supply store, but the candle wax works just fine.

as you wait for the blank to dry, you should get your chisels as sharp as you can ... neurosurgery sharp ... if your project involves carving or other cool embellishments, practice on some scrap while the blank reaches moisture nirvana.

this is a big pain in the neck, but at the end, you will have a unique product which you made in the entire .. the coolest toys are the ones you make yourself.

best of luck