Stock finish with tru-oil

[Long walker]

Added 4 coats of m

Use and LOVE all the products you mention less True Oil as a finish. It turns 'white' on the wood rifles when carried in inclement weather. It also thickens and gums up when not used regularly. I gave up on it.

I now use the finishing or 'wiping varnishes' as sold by Arm-R-Seal. It is a modern polymerized finish that fancy/high end custom furniture makers use, available @ Woodcraft. The depth of the finish it gives to tiger-striped maple is to die for, really highlights the chatoyance!

But, there are MANY options to use besides T-O or what I mentioned. A bonus for the A-R-S product is that it can be touched up at any time and you won't see any difference in the finish between areas touched and those not touched up. It's all I use now. And ... it doesn't turn white where your wet, gloved hand holds the longrifle for hours or days ...

Arm-R-Seal: Wiping varnish, wet (oil) sanded for 1st two, then hand-rubbed for 3-4 more coats - all gloss - then I switch to the satin for the final 2 coats. All coats lightly rubbed in-between with the finest polishing 3M Scotchbrite pads, light gray I recall. The gloss gives a depth and sheen that really needs to be seen to be truly appreciated. I made both of these, but a sampling.

LH Fusil de Chasse:
View attachment 231150

LH Custom BP Schuetzen stock of English Walnut:
View attachment 231151

 

[Long walker]

Added 4 coats of permalyn sealer. It’s very glossy and seems well sealed.
Should I move forward with permalyn finish?
Can I do one section of the stock at a time without it looking unfinished?
Use a brush or hand rub?
Long Walker.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Tru-Oil

Tru-oil

Tru-Oil

And more Tru-oil

Tru-oil

All Tru-Oil, I guess you can see I like the stuff.

 

[Eric Krewson]

All of the above rifles had the Tru-oil applied with a scotch bright pad and scrubbed in.

To keep the bottle contents from setting up for long periods of time only punch a pin hole in the seal and store the bottle upside down.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

No one denies it can make a nice finish for use in good weather ... but go out and hunt with it in wet weather, exposed to the elements and then come back here and SHOW us how it fared ... haha!

 

[Old-Duckman]

All of the above rifles had the Tru-oil applied with a scotch bright pad and scrubbed in.

To keep the bottle contents from setting up for long periods of time only punch a pin hole in the seal and store the bottle upside down.

View attachment 231671

Eric,

Have you ever had anything that you finished with Tru-Oil get "sticky" over time or turn white when exposed to moisture/water?

I never have and I think that my 12 hour wet paper towel test pretty much debunks the turning white claim.

I'm not saying that some Tru-Oil finished stocks have not suffered the turning white condition, I'm just putting forward that those who have experienced that issue have a stock in which the Tru-Oil was not applied properly.

I cure my Tru-Oil finished stocks/grips in a drying box which is simply a wooden cabinet lined with foam insulation and with a 100W light bulb in the bottom of the cabinet. Overnight in the drying box allows the finish to cure nicely and the stock is ready for the next coat.

I knock down the finish with 3M scuff pads and after several coats I wet sand. I repeat this process until I have the pores of the wood filled to my satisfaction. I then spray on a final coat and leave it unmolested. The Geha stock in my photos above is an example of that process. On that stock I added a flattening agent to the final coat to get the desired sheen (or lack thereof).

 

[Old-Duckman]

No one denies it can make a nice finish for use in good weather ... but go out and hunt with it in wet weather, exposed to the elements and then come back here and SHOW us how it fared ... haha!

So the 12 hour wet paper towel test is not a good enough test?

 

[BS2366]

All of the above rifles had the Tru-oil applied with a scotch bright pad and scrubbed in.

To keep the bottle contents from setting up for long periods of time only punch a pin hole in the seal and store the bottle upside down.

View attachment 231671

I do the same thing.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Used it once, hated the finish, went back to tung oil.

 

[springfield art]

Use and LOVE all the products you mention less True Oil as a finish. It turns 'white' on the wood rifles when carried in inclement weather. It also thickens and gums up when not used regularly. I gave up on it.

I now use the finishing or 'wiping varnishes' as sold by Arm-R-Seal. It is a modern polymerized finish that fancy/high end custom furniture makers use, available @ Woodcraft. The depth of the finish it gives to tiger-striped maple is to die for, really highlights the chatoyance!

But, there are MANY options to use besides T-O or what I mentioned. A bonus for the A-R-S product is that it can be touched up at any time and you won't see any difference in the finish between areas touched and those not touched up. It's all I use now. And ... it doesn't turn white where your wet, gloved hand holds the longrifle for hours or days ...

Arm-R-Seal: Wiping varnish, wet (oil) sanded for 1st two, then hand-rubbed for 3-4 more coats - all gloss - then I switch to the satin for the final 2 coats. All coats lightly rubbed in-between with the finest polishing 3M Scotchbrite pads, light gray I recall. The gloss gives a depth and sheen that really needs to be seen to be truly appreciated. I made both of these, but a sampling.

LH Fusil de Chasse:
View attachment 231150

LH Custom BP Schuetzen stock of English Walnut:
View attachment 231151

Yet another tip about a product I was unaware of. I wrote the name & source down, hope I remember to reference it next time I need to re-finish something. Thanks, this site is full of good tips.

 

[deerstalkert]

this thread reminded me that i need another bottle of tru-oil.

 

[ZUG]

I use either True oil or Permalyn sealer as my finish and sealer. I will thin the true Oil so it will soak into the wood more. I find there is no need to use the Permalyn finish the sealer is the same stuff only thinner. If I don't want the gloss look I rub back the shine with rottenstone and water. Works for me well over many years of using both. I NEVER had either finish go white on me but I have had to reapply the finish on my True oiled rifles from time to time.

 

[James Kibler]

I would be hesitant to poo-poo finishes. You would be surprised what some of the very best builders use today. Some use tru-oil some use permalyn, some use spar varnish, some use Waterlox, some use Minwax Antique Oil, some use Chambers finish (Waterlox basically), some use Tried and True etc. These are top notch builders who all create absolutely amazing pieces of work. Finish included!

It's much more to do with how you use the finish. This is something I hear all the time about how somebody loves on finish but another isn't worth a hoot. It's probably more to do with how you are using the other finish.

Jim

 

[Eric Krewson]

My only extreem test of Tru oil and moisture came when I was shooting off the deck and put my osage bow on the deck rail strung, walked off to another job and completely forgot about the bow thinking I had put it up properly. It started storming that night and rained buckets all night long.

Imagine my horror when I woke up the next morning, looked out on the deck and saw my bow still strung and drenched. I was more concerned about the bow taking a set than the finish, it had been strung for 18 hours. I ran out with a towel, dried the bow and unstrung it, the limbs snapped right back into a reflex like they were before, good osage is like that. The finish was just as pristine as when I had my memory lapse, the leather handle was waterlogged, I took it off and replaced it with new leather.

So, at least 12 hours in the pouring rain and no damage to the finish. I am a fair-weather hunter in my old age so my B/P rifles only get a little light rain on them before I am headed to the house. I remember back when I would ride out gail force winds and rain in my tree stand, hugging the tree to hold on and thinking I was having "fun".

 

[Artificer]

I was first taught to use Tru Oil in 1973 on NM modern rifles and it's close to almost exactly a half century later, I am still using it. This even though I've tried almost every finish out there.

I've seen how Tru Oil reacts on Okinawa, Hawaii, and all across the Continental U.S. except Alaska. This includes in great heat or cold, rain or snow, etc., etc.

I have never seen the whitish discoloration mentioned earlier UNLESS someone improperly used Tru Oil or used it over some other finish first.

Gus

 

[45man]

I was first taught to use Tru Oil in 1973 on NM modern rifles and it's close to almost exactly a half century later, I am still using it. This even though I've tried almost every finish out there.

I've seen how Tru Oil reacts on Okinawa, Hawaii, and all across the Continental U.S. except Alaska. This includes in great heat or cold, rain or snow, etc., etc.

I have never seen the whitish discoloration mentioned earlier UNLESS someone improperly used Tru Oil or used it over some other finish first.

Gus

Same here and have been using it for as long as it has been made. Once I hunted for a week in rain with my Hawken and my rifle was the only one with no damage. My friends with TC's had swelled wood and lost finish. I had to repair them all and you guessed it---Tru oil.

 

[Dale Lilly]

All of the above rifles had the Tru-oil applied with a scotch bright pad and scrubbed in.

To keep the bottle contents from setting up for long periods of time only punch a pin hole in the seal and store the bottle upside down.

View attachment 231671

Great advice, take it!

 

[Eric Krewson]

As for sticky; I have bought a few bottles over the years that the finish, once applied, stayed tacky for days and never really set up hard like it should. In these rare cases I trashed the bad bottle and bought a new one at Walmart. Being able to buy the stuff at Walmart is another plus for me.

I should have added; I apply Tru-oil to the stock scrubbing it in with a scotch bright pad and quickly wipe off any excess with a rag.

Here is a stock with 5 coats applied and the excess of each coat wiped off with a rag.

 

[HighUintas]

As for sticky; I have bought a few bottles over the years that the finish, once applied, stayed tacky for days and never really set up hard like it should. In these rare cases I trashed the bad bottle and bought a new one at Walmart. Being able to buy the stuff at Walmart is another plus for me.

I should have added; I apply Tru-oil to the stock scrubbing it in with a scotch bright pad and quickly wipe off any excess with a rag.

Here is a stock with 5 coats applied and the excess of each coat wiped off with a rag.

View attachment 232317

That looks nice. How glossy does it turn out using that method? Do you have to rub it back at all after the final coat?

 

[IanH]

Tru-Oil is a very good VARNISH, maybe one of the best that isn't a modern epoxy urethane. If you thin the first few coats so they penetrate and afterward use about three to four drops per coat on a full stock, hand rubbed with your fingers, and put on enough coats with full drying in between to seal the wood well, it is excellent, especially on "unmentionables" and working guns.

My problem with it is it is too good for the majority of what I try to accomplish with longrifles, trade guns, etc. Tru-Oil builds ON the wood fast, fills pores, and makes a glossy, mirror finish in short order which must be addressed with abrasives (powders, pads, burlap, steel wool, and the like) if you want satin. My opinion, for my own guns, and that's all it is, is that drying oils of various sorts and maybe some pine-based resin varnish for a little bit of sheen and surface coat if desired for the particular application, is the way to go and LOOKS best on reproductions of antiques. Those finishes are NOT very durable or weather-resistant and require maintenance throughout the life of the gun whether it is used or not.

If the Tru-Oil finish is chipped or scratched, it is more difficult to repair and blend than other finishes. Repairing a Tru-Oil finish is like repairing paint on a car. Oil finishes only require a drop be rubbed in until dry to blend.

If Tru-Oil turns white it was likely put on too thick, each coat was too thick, and the wood wasn't prepared properly. It shouldn't do that and should last forever without any maintenance. I have gins finished with Tru-Oil 40 years ago that still look good...if you like glossy, mirror smooth finish.