Stock insert...

[Stevan]

Has it ever been discussed the possibility of forming a insert to allow a stock cut for 15/16" to accept a barrel measuring 13/16th?
Thanks, Steve

 

[Gtrubicon]

I’ll bet a 3d printer could easily handle this.

 

[Hermit Tim]

Never seen that discussion here yet. But just curious, what kinda project are you working on?

 

[Hermit Tim]

I've got a .32 barrel that is, I think, 3/4. As far as wedge pin lineup and such everything is in the right place for a couple 15/16 stocks I've got. So I thought about making wooden shims to fit the channel in the stock. Don't know how well that would work. But could be an option.

 

[TechMoron]

No need to overthink things. Just get some 1/16th thickness wood veneer & cut strips to line the barrel channel. I've used thinner veneer to put a White Mountain Carbine barrel in a Renegade stock.

 

[oldwood]

Stevan , reducing a 15/16 to a smaller size can be done with brown stained Epoxie , and a cut up plastic grocery bag taped to the 13/16 " barrel w/ scotch tape in place of expensive release agent. The brown stain for the Epoxie can be bought from Brownells gunsmith supply. Be very sparing with the Epoxie stain , as using too much weakins the hardened Epoxie. Mix in small batches , like a tablespoon at a time , and a small screwdriver tip of dye for each mix. Lay a 1/16" hobby store popcycle stick in the bottom of the 15/16" barrel channel for a spacer to keep the vertical distance close to correct. I've done this operation many times , and when the gun is stained and finished , the repair/modification isn't visible. Brownells sells expensive glass bedding , and release agent. I've found it hard to use , and again unnecessarily expensive. Harbor Freight tool Co. sells bottles of very good Epoxie glue for a pittance. I used to use the Brownells Acraglas , and release agent 50 yrs ago bedding modern bolt action guns. Found I get the same result w/ cheaper stuff.

 

[deerstalkert]

your barrel to breech breakaway will have a small difference in size but it should still hook up ok.
may be a small misalignment between the hammer and the nipple but should be negligible.

 

[Stevan]

Never seen that discussion here yet. But just curious, what kinda project are you working on?

Thank you all for some really great feedback as well as the comfort of relieving the suspicion of being more than just slightly nuts.
Hermit: My project is in the planning stages at this time, but moving right along owing to the abundance of little grey matter available on this Forum. A small caliber BP burner is the goal hopefully a barrel which would share the stock of the .45 purchased from a Forum member.
Oldwood: Good experienced thinking! Please give this some thought.
Think, your plan applied to enlarge the smaller barrel to fit the 15/16s stock leaving the stock receptive for a 15/16s barrel.
THANK ALL, Steve

 

[Wncman]

You might bed the barrel in the stock.
It would show a line in either side so match the color as close as you can.

 

[Stevan]

Tech moron, this is reasonable, too. The veneer could be cut to fit the stock. Then attached to the barrel.
What about when the barrel is LARGER than the stock? If its of a smaller caliber can the barrel be filed down? Like a 1" barrel with a .36 caliber bore, filed down to 15/16s on each of the five sides contacting the stock. That could work, yes?
You can see I have the stock k but not the barrel, yet. Thanks, Steve

 

[TechMoron]

No offense hoss, but you'd be miles ahead by just buying another gun in whatever caliber you desire. And cutting 5 sides of a barrel down 1/32nd of an inch would require a milling machine. No way you're gonna file it down.

 

[Stevan]

Don't call me hoss, I'm a chicken.
Really, it is a waste of time and energy being offened. Life's to short.
The filing idea was just that, an idea, though I do wonder if it generated any joy. I had to smile thinking about me laboring over a tube of steel, hour after hour with another stick of iron. Who do ya think would win? The tube, the stick, me or solitaire. Steve

 

[nhmoose]

Easy Acra-Glass gel die it to color YOU want

 

[new2bp]

Stevan , reducing a 15/16 to a smaller size can be done with brown stained Epoxie , and a cut up plastic grocery bag taped to the 13/16 " barrel w/ scotch tape in place of expensive release agent. The brown stain for the Epoxie can be bought from Brownells gunsmith supply. Be very sparing with the Epoxie stain , as using too much weakins the hardened Epoxie. Mix in small batches , like a tablespoon at a time , and a small screwdriver tip of dye for each mix. Lay a 1/16" hobby store popcycle stick in the bottom of the 15/16" barrel channel for a spacer to keep the vertical distance close to correct. I've done this operation many times , and when the gun is stained and finished , the repair/modification isn't visible. Brownells sells expensive glass bedding , and release agent. I've found it hard to use , and again unnecessarily expensive. Harbor Freight tool Co. sells bottles of very good Epoxie glue for a pittance. I used to use the Brownells Acraglas , and release agent 50 yrs ago bedding modern bolt action guns. Found I get the same result w/ cheaper stuff.

If you don't want the permanence of epoxy, I've bedded receivers and v-block/take down screw area of 10/22s using aluminum tape. Works great, should work fine for the barrel channel of a muzzle loader. Can be attached to barrel even, instead of to stock, super easy with the octagonal flats.

 

[Stevan]

Valuable information. Whoa, never thought of that. Thanks, Steve

 

[ronaldrothb49]

Don't doubt that it could be done with most all the suggestions given. My thoughts would be that the fore stock is going to look kind of clunky.

 

[Stevan]

I resemble that remark, clunky.
Telling you these facts. 1. I have yet to buy the barrel. The one hoped-for isn't as it seemed. So that element is not yet fixed. 2. The stock is owned by the writer but, that factor can be changed when 1 becomes reality.
In the meantime, what a wealth of knowledge has been shared by you and the fascinating others.
Thanks for this and any other contribution to this thread and many more you've made. Steve

 

[WonkyEye]

I think you absolutely could do this. I'm not a gun maker, but I am a woodworker. If you go the glass bed route, you might still want to glue matching wood shims on the sides as techmoron suggested for aesthetics. I'd use a waterproof pva glue like tightbond 2 or 3. If you know a woodworker with a drum sander they can thin down the veneer for a perfect fit. If you don't, stick blue painters tape to your veneer, and to a flat table. Super glue the tape back to back, now you can carefully work it with a scraper or sanding block. Check with a straight edge and feeler gauges so you get consistent thickness. If you get it just right you could glue your veneers in, and use the barrel to clamp them in place while the glue dries.
Leave a 1/16 to 1/32 sticking up and scrape it back when the glue is set. It should be almost invisible if you're detailed and patient about it

 

[Stevan]

Many thanks for your input. A near feature of the Forum is once it's written a person can re-read it later and get a more complete explanation on what to do.
Thanks, Steve

 

[tenngun]

Model expo, you can find them on line, is a model building company. They sell supplies for ship model building.
Wood ship models can be built up laying planks on a frame.
They sell thin strips of wood in cherry, mahogany, beech, walnut, yellow poplar
And range from 1/ mm to 4mm about 1/4 “ thick, and 2-10mm 1/2” wide
They also sell a vinyl glue that’s water proof
You could build up a channel pretty quick