Stock refinishing. First coat...?

[John Spartan]

Have refinished several wooden stocks on older military guns with (after stripping) BLO and have been happy with the results.
Recently read somewhere (course I can’t find it) where someone recommends, for the first coat/application, to mix the oil with some (forget which) solvent as this really helps initial absorption.

As this makes a rough kind of sense to me I remember it - some of it anyway.
Anyone mix a solvent with their oil on the first coat? Which solvent was it? And in what proportion?
TIA.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

So I was taught and have used a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine or mineral spirits.
The turpentine stinks up the house, so I don't use that any more with the BLO
I rub the 50/50 mix of odorless mineral spirits and BLO on with 4-0 steel wool, allow it to sit for 15 minutes, then with a clean, soft rag I wipe off any excess. This is allowed to for 24 hours, and the process is repeated.
The rags must be carefully disposed of as drying BLO can spontaneously combust when drying on a cotton based rag or on paper towels or newspaper (you might drip onto newspaper used to protect the surface of the bench etc below the stock.)

The best thing to do is to try this on a small spot in the barrel channel, where it won't be seen when the rifle or gun is assembled, and thus you have an area to test various finishes and dyes and combinations.

LD

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Heed his warning about the use of BLO … I personally know two people that lost their houses when using that finish!

 

[John Spartan]

Perfect. Thank you gentlemen.
I’m very aware of the heat generation by oxidizing BLO on rags - to the point of paranoia I think - but a fresh reminder is always good!

 

[user 34300]

If you are going to use hardware store BLO put some Japan dryer in it.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Naptha is the best I've used for thinning any of the oil or varnish finishes. It's nearly odorless and has an evaporation rate that works well. I use the Japan dryer too.

 

[J. Paul]

BlO and mineral spirits, hand rub into stock until its soaked in. I rarely use a rag to wipe down as each layer is hand rubbed in from pouring a bit onto palm of hand then rubbing as far as it goes then adding a bit more. If a piece looks dry, add a bit more to palm and rub in. Typically when satisfied with results u repeat maybe once each year with 10 to 15 drops of BLO again hand rubbed in. Rarely do I use a brush or rag

 

[John Spartan]

I rub mine in by hand also though, when its clear the wood is done “soaking it in” for that coat, I do wipe the excess with a clean rag after a period of approx. 30-60 minutes.
Made the mistake (once!) of letting the excess dry on the wood and was not happy.

 

[J. Paul]

I rub mine in by hand also though, when its clear the wood is done “soaking it in” for that coat, I do wipe the excess with a clean rag after a period of approx. 30-60 minutes.
Made the mistake (once!) of letting the excess dry on the wood and was not happy.

I just hand rub it some more, let friction from hand rubbing warm until gets slightly tacky

 

[Alan O]

This is very helpful. I've been using Tru Oil and it seems to work, but does anyone know what's in it? Also, I have an older can I need to thin a little. What works best? Mineral spirits?

 

[user 34300]

In California many solvents are now unavailable. A good substitute is charcoal lighter.

 

[Vaino]

As a beginning coat I've always used 2 wipe on/wipeoff coats of LMF Sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Then 2 coats of a very different finish are applied and that's it. The resulting finish looks like there isn't any finish on the stock.....Fred