Stock repair

[varsity07840]

I'm working on a project gun that has a 1"piece of wood broken off along the barrel channel in that fragile area above and foward of the lock mortise. Had it glued with tightbond and it broke off again while I was removing the lock(my fault). Is there a solvent I can use to take off the existing glue or should I just reglue over it? I'm also thinking about a couple of small diameter pins in holes drilled from the top edge down to keep it rigid.

Thanks,

Duane

 

[ricklandes]

I am sorry I do not know what to use to remove the glue...I might try acetone or lacquer thinner.

I would use accu-glass. If the area is very thin you will have little surface area to bond the parts together, therefore you may need to inlay in the barrel channel a bit of brass or steel screen to aid in the holding of the parts. This could be done using the barrel itself as a channel mold, when treated with a release agent.

I am thinking it will hide the repair and allow for added strength, especially since the lock will be removed again and again throughout the arms life.

 

[maypo59]

Not sure if there is a solvent for dried titebond.. but reglueing, drilling and adding brass pins would be the correct way to repair it, at least as of 1945. I have a couple M1 Garands with that type of repair done at depot maintenence level. I don't know if it is "period correct" (dang used that phrase twice in one day, three times in my life..) for a muzzleloader, but do know it works.

 

[schloss]

I had a glue problem a few years ago, and talked to a few of the chemists at the glue company. (I can't remember exactly what brand the glue was anymore.) Anyway, the glue is designed to withstand all the chemicals that are applied during staining and finishing processes, and I was told that thinners and things wouldn't break it down, but it was recommended that I try a strong citrus-based cleaner to get it cleaned up.

I soaked it in some citrus cleaner for about a few days, and it did break down the glue some, although it didn't really dissolve it. Even after a week, it didn't dissolve the glue.

The back story:
I was working at a very rural Alaskan school. Everything had to be mail ordered, as the two local stores had very little on their shelves, and it was always really expensive. Everything that I found would get shipped to Seattle, and then I had to contact some companies at the port there and get them to ship it to Anchorage or Dillingham, and once there, I had to find someone to fly it to the village for me. It was a lot of work, and things go through a lot of different hands.
So, I had ordered a bunch of basic woodworking supplies from Grizzly, and the box containing the wood glue and all my bandsaw blades and a few other tools got handled a little rough or packed poorly, or a combination of the two. One of the gallon jugs of glue broke open and spilled all over the place. I was trying to save all the bandsaw blades that were basically ruined if covered with the glue. The citrus trick did work to a degree, and I saved a few of the blades.

 

[Vaino]

I would remove the old glue and start over. I've done a few of these and I make a replacement insert that's similar as to grain direction and which is a very close fit and protrudes into the bbl channel and also has stock on the outside. The inlet and insert sides are both stained w/ the final color. Super glue is then applied and the stain colors the super glue and yields an extremely close match. I've also used a veiner to cut on the insert lines after gluing and then applied a colored epoxy and this also produced a close match. The veiner cut is not straight but is wavy so the fix isn't as noticeable.Of course this fix is for an unfinished stock.....Fred

 

[rich pierce]

Fred's got the right move here. I'd also cut beyond the glue joint to get a nice larger regular shape to make it easier to fit the patch in place. There's no way the old piece is really going to hold, re-glued. The patch can have sections unseen that extend fore and aft just in the barrel channel to give it greater stability.

 

[Rogue River]

When your repair is done and before you apply your finish your can use small tip brown or black marking pen to camoflage your repair by drawing in the wood grain lines. It works good in some situations and not so good in others. If it does'nt look right a little sanding and you can start over.

 

[Harley Donaldson]

To reinforse the thin layer of wood use a dryer softener sheet that has been through the dryer. they are remarkably strong and do not add material thickness to the stock that wood require refitting. I use brownells acra glass. Don't forget the release agent on the barrel. Good Luck

 

[varsity07840]

Sorta like fiberglass mesh, which I thought about but rejected because it would be too thick. I like that !!

Thanks to all for the feedback. I'll update my post after I give it a go.

Duane

 

[Pork Chop]

Go to a hobby shop that caters to RC models. Get some carbon fiber and some slow setting epoxy. With the carbon fiber strands put on, it won't break out again...

 

[varsity07840]

To reinforse the thin layer of wood use a dryer softener sheet that has been through the dryer. they are remarkably strong and do not add material thickness to the stock that wood require refitting. I use brownells acra glass. Don't forget the release agent on the barrel. Good Luck

SUCCESS!!

Harley: The dryer sheet method worked very well. In addition,a section of the the wood was thick enough for me to
machine a thin mortise in the broken piece and the stock to receive a spline. I used dyed acra glass and slopped alot of into the spline joint as well. It's held up to frequent lock ins and outs as well as barrel removal (hooked breech). Seems like a very sound repair and you have to look very close to find it.

HAPPY NEW YEAR.

Duane