Strengthening frizzen spring?

[ZUG]

Buy an extra spring - just in case- it is best to have one on hand.

 

[FlinterNick]

The spring for my frizzen is rather weak. The firzzen doesn't really snap closed with much authority. I was thinking that opening the angle of the spring should give it some more umph, but before I do this I figured i should double check.

I was thinking to heat the spring bend to cherry red, open it a bit, requench in oil.

1. Would it need tempering? If so, what's your favorite process?

2. Would this really do much, or am I better off ordering a new spring (from Chambers)?

Frizzen springs don’t have to be very strong, just strong enough. They just need to cover the pan.

Could the spring have a weak temper, its possible but not likely.

Now if the spring is so weak that teh frizzen doesn't shut over the pan or the frizzen is wobbly, then its very possible that it was set in on the lock plate incorrectly.

Or it could be also that the spring has a crack somewhere in it.

If you’re going to reheat treat and temper, i would heat the spring with a propane torch and quench it canola oil.

Draw it out at 700 degrees for 30-40 min. Let it air cool.

If you don’t have an oven, then i would use a butane torch to temper the spring blue, i would do this a twice with a butane torch.

Another at home method is to submerge the spring in molten lead for 45 min or nitre salts.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Fine, but mine was weak enough not to keep the frizzen closed if it got much of a bump. Not a desirable characteristic in a hunting rifle that is carried through the brush. It doesn't matter how well the frizzen sparks if all the priming falls out by accident.

Yup! The replacement part was cheap. Might want to just order a replacement IF there is one available.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

My late father,(1998-1956) who taught me to make spring would always Double or Treble temper Finger tools,Springs that picked up links on High speed chain m/cs at around 150 lk/min. The First was to STRESS Releive.The second to De-embrittle and the third to re-enforce the orginal temper by colour,(unfortunately-only learned by watching a Master).
Dave's description is as close as possible to perfecf.Though if you follow the first two you need'nt go to Grey.."Very" OLD DOG..

 

[FlinterNick]

My late father,(1998-1956) who taught me to make spring would always Double or Treble temper Finger tools,Springs that picked up links on High speed chain m/cs at around 150 lk/min. The First was to STRESS Releive.The second to De-embrittle and the third to re-enforce the orginal temper by colour,(unfortunately-only learned by watching a Master).
Dave's description is as close as possible to perfecf.Though if you follow the first two you need'nt go to Grey.."Very" OLD DOG..

I think the major issue for most is how they’re set up at home or in the shop.

The trouble usually happens when all that is available is whats in the kitchen and or a propane torch.

 

[45man]

Seems to me that spring temper is 600 degrees, anyway that is what I set my lead pot at.

 

[FlinterNick]

Seems to me that spring temper is 600 degrees, anyway that is what I set my lead pot at.

Not for a flintlock spring, it will possibly break depending on the steel type

 

[LRB]

Seems to me that spring temper is 600 degrees, anyway that is what I set my lead pot at.

Spring temper using common high carbon spring steels is 750°F. No lower than 725°F, ideally. Using the simple 10xx steels and similar, bring to 1475°F or red orange heat, and quench in Parks #50 oil, or warmed canola oil if you can do no better. Temper ASAP. The higher carbon 10xx steels, and some others, can break when cool just sitting around waiting for temper.

 

[45man]

It seems the range is from 572 to 932 so I guess you are correct. I suppose it depends on application. I made new main springs and frizzen springs from o-1 after mine broke and they still work after 65 years. For my cherries I make to cut molds I temper at 300.

 

[FlinterNick]

It seems the range is from 572 to 932 so I guess you are correct. I suppose it depends on application. I made new main springs and frizzen springs from o-1 after mine broke and they still work after 65 years. For my cherries I make to cut molds I temper at 300.

600 is ok for sear springs, and other smaller springs like rammer spoons.

I woudn’t go to 570-650 for mainsprings and frizzen springs.

Not saying it can’t work but the performance of the spring is not any better if you temper a spring at 600 than if you temper it at 750, 750 is kind of like your safe harbor against it breaking and developing a crack, so why not temper at 750?

 

[LRB]

600 is ok for sear springs, and other smaller springs like rammer spoons.

I woudn’t go to 570-650 for mainsprings and frizzen springs.

Not saying it can’t work but the performance of the spring is not any better if you temper a spring at 600 than if you temper it at 750, 750 is kind of like your safe harbor against it breaking and developing a crack, so why not temper at 750?

Temper heat set aside and out of the picture, the ideal spring temper hardness required for most high carbon steels is in the 42 to 46 Rc hardness range. + or - a tad. Not many of us have a Rockwell hardness tester, but that is the hardness range for good springs if you do or have access to one. Much less hard and at a given point, the spring will take a set bend. Much more and at a given point it will break.