Forgive me, for I have sinned. I have a TC Renegade project that I am assembling. It is a 54 barrel, which I have wanted for a while. Well, the bluing on it was in tough shape, so a friend who is a semi retired gunsmith said that he would redo it for me. I told him that I wanted a high gloss blue. I got it back today. It is some kind of duracoat or guncoat spray stuff that has a textured finish. Not a polished blue like I wanted. I don't really like it, and I am thinking of stripping it. Thoughts?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Stripping a barrel
- Thread starter Pork Chop
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2015
- Messages
- 3,068
- Reaction score
- 1,039
You can use LMF Browning solution, or you can use the same product to rust blue with as well. It tells you how in the instructions and looks very nice.
Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:
Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:
Tom Compton
54 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2008
- Messages
- 1,893
- Reaction score
- 193
Start w Birchwood Casey blue and rust remover from Track and others.
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2015
- Messages
- 3,068
- Reaction score
- 1,039
I too use Birchwood Casey Blue&Rust Remover Always works great for me!Pork Chop said:
Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 896
Naval Jelly from the hardware store will remove browning and bluing.
bubba.50
Barefoot Hillbilly
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2010
- Messages
- 3,837
- Reaction score
- 3,348
if it is indeed a chemical resistant finish you may be able to soften it up with one of those paint-stripper heat guns enough to carefully scrape it off. if not, as others have said, get out the sandpaper.
and I really would find a new 'smith :thumbsup: .
and I really would find a new 'smith :thumbsup: .
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 896
Acetone should soften and/or remove epoxy...
Metalshaper
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2004
- Messages
- 479
- Reaction score
- 132
Evaporust!! Find it a harbor freight and some hardware stores.. does a fine job of removing chemical bluing!! :grin:
Helped a friend clean an old lock he found.. we put it in a tub of Evaporust.. wandered out to a local auction.. When we came back, we didn't even have to scrub much at all.. the bluing and junk had vanished... Your mileage may very :hmm:
I use it to clean old parts and tools I find..
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
Helped a friend clean an old lock he found.. we put it in a tub of Evaporust.. wandered out to a local auction.. When we came back, we didn't even have to scrub much at all.. the bluing and junk had vanished... Your mileage may very :hmm:
I use it to clean old parts and tools I find..
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
Archer 756
40 Cal.
:v I hope that you know that to do any finish the barrel will need to be buff out before any finish is added, the proper and ONLY way to get the type of blueing that you want is hot salt blueing. There are some smith's on line that only do hot salt bluing $$$$. Up here we have two persons that do this and as stated $$$$ :hatsoff:
Onojutta
45 Cal.
220 grit sand paper, dry
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2016
- Messages
- 3,515
- Reaction score
- 3,804
Draw file it. :cursing:
Yup! What I would do. :metoo:Ames said:
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2004
- Messages
- 14,767
- Reaction score
- 319
Ames said:
Yup, same here. Dunno what that gunk is on the barrel, but I'm betting it's there because it's impervious to everything but a nuclear blast.
+1 as well, draw file away.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 702
- Reaction score
- 2,185
Last edited by a moderator:
That material is probably a two part baked on stuff, for AR's and such. It has no place on a ML. I would not take any more gun projects to him.
Neither does a high gloss blue, ....IMHO. The half used all day sucker look you will get from a modern gunsmith is completely out of place. The polishing they do can do permanent damage. And, that is what you will usually get. The flats will be all messed up and rounded.
The only thing these guys can do, for a decent price is to bead blast it and then hot caustic blue it. Bead blasting will take your paint off. That process actually looks reasonable. Like an old time rust blue. If you are very specific and the guy is not a hack, you may come out OK.
These days many people who call themselves gunsmith have not the first clue, beware.
For this situation, the best course of action is to re-polish to #320. No finer is needed or productive. Back the wet dry sandpaper with an old file. Start at 120 and progress to 320. Birchwood Casey plumb brown gives instant results. A decent cold blue like Brownells Dicopan will well if you want black. Apply it with de-greased steel wool.
I used to do my prep work and then have the local , non hack, gunsmith do a hot blue.
Truth be told, muzzle loaders are supposed to be browned, it is some kind of law.............I think? :grin:
Neither does a high gloss blue, ....IMHO. The half used all day sucker look you will get from a modern gunsmith is completely out of place. The polishing they do can do permanent damage. And, that is what you will usually get. The flats will be all messed up and rounded.
The only thing these guys can do, for a decent price is to bead blast it and then hot caustic blue it. Bead blasting will take your paint off. That process actually looks reasonable. Like an old time rust blue. If you are very specific and the guy is not a hack, you may come out OK.
These days many people who call themselves gunsmith have not the first clue, beware.
For this situation, the best course of action is to re-polish to #320. No finer is needed or productive. Back the wet dry sandpaper with an old file. Start at 120 and progress to 320. Birchwood Casey plumb brown gives instant results. A decent cold blue like Brownells Dicopan will well if you want black. Apply it with de-greased steel wool.
I used to do my prep work and then have the local , non hack, gunsmith do a hot blue.
Truth be told, muzzle loaders are supposed to be browned, it is some kind of law.............I think? :grin:
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 896
Scota4570 said:
Depending on the gun, time-period and place - browning, bluing or left "in the white" are appropriate. Generally speaking, "earlier" guns were blued or left in the white, while browning is more recent.
Personally, I prefer a natural barrel that is allowed to "age" to a mellow gray color. This can be accelerated by treating the barrel with cold-blue which is rubbed-back with a green scrubbing pad.
