• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Stripping a Buttstock Finish?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Not familiar with T/C finishes, but if it's an oil or some other non-varnish or non-poly finish, you probably don't need the mess of a stripper. I've done same to old milsurps with acetone and Simple Green and hot water with Scotchbrite which takes off the outer finish and color leaving the wood and penetrated oil and color mostly intact with just a raised grain to knock down, then refinished with new stain if and as needed and then oil, shellac or whatever top finish as desired.
 
I have done several TCs, Citristrip on the first one and cheaper Kleen Strip on the second, both worked well. Plan on a couple of applications to get everything out of every nook and cranny, the stuff works better in warm weather, you can use Citristrip indoors, Kleen strip needs to be used well in a well-ventilated area. You can use a putty knife to scrap off the finish after the stripper works, after the second application I wash the stock very well with a water hose and a scrub brush.

First coat of Kleen-strip outside, it was around freezing so I had to put black plastic over the stock to heat up the stripper to get it to work.

TC paint strip 2.JPG


Working

TC paint strip 1.JPG


Stripped down to the smallest pore.

TC paint  stripped.JPG


The comment about all of the sanding work involved if you strip a stock is incorrect, the grain of the two stocks I stripped was raised about the same amount as if I whiskered the stock which I do 4 or 5 times anyway and before I apply a grain sealer to the stock and sand the sealer back to bare wood 3 or 4 times before I apply the final finish.

Done, I go for a satin finish, I apply 5 or 6 coats of Tru-oil with a piece of scotch bright pad to cut the shine.

done lock side.JPG
 
Last edited:
The comment about all of the sanding work involved if you strip a stock is incorrect, the grain of the two stocks I stripped was raised about the same amount as if I whiskered the stock which I do 4 or 5 times anyway and before I apply a grain sealer to the stock and sand the sealer back to bare wood 3 or 4 times before I apply the final finish.
You actually prove my point. Not everyone whiskers a stock, nor is there a need to if not using a stripper, which then requires washing off.
 
There are a thousand ways to refinish a piece of wood, and pretty much they all work, with varying degrees of effort and resulting success. You don't know if you don't try.
 
You actually prove my point. Not everyone whiskers a stock, nor is there a need to if not using a stripper, which then requires washing off.
But knocking the whiskers off a stock is much simpler than rasping and scraping away the rasping lines. And no rasp is going near a stock that I intend to refinish only.
 
Back
Top