Stuck brush in barrel

[longcruise]

I'm with you on this, MD. I use the same technique of turning the rod a bit as I extract the brush. Another thing that works well is one of the nylon bristle brushes.

Using a shot gun cleaning rod and shotgun brush makes it just about impossible to break a brush off. In my part of the country the humidity is often 10 or 15 percent so even if you wipe between shots and after that last shot the fouling can be very hard. It will clean up fine with water and patches but a brush makes fast work of it.

 

[Vaino]

Although I use a bronze wire brush all the time, many have problems w/ "sticking the brush".....and many reasons are the cause, among them a poorly tipped RR, a brush of the wrong caliber, a lousy quality brush and being in a hurry and not twisting the RR in a clockwise direction when w/ drawing the brush.

Some have absolutely no problems w/ wire brushes as do I and my son and some who ignore common sense get their brushes stuck.

I guess once a person "sticks a wire brush" due to one of the above reasons, their mind is "etched" w/ "don't ever use a wire brush" and the chorus of "brush stickers" chime in.

Really...I think that one should use whatever one is comfortable w/ to clean a MLer......but as was said previously, if one shoots conicals, a wire brush is an indispensable tool and even w/ PRBs will do a better job of keeping a bore spotless......Fred

 

[Artie Peltier]

I totally agree about NOT using a bronze type brush in a Muzzle loader. Used one in my earlier years and yes it did get stuck. Had a great time getting it out and never used one again. Here is a question for the group. I read an article, before joining here that said use nylon bushes instead. There is more flex and give in the bristles and they won’t get stuck. I tried it a few times and they worked fine. Still not wanting to push my luck I went back to a patch and jag! What say you about using nylon. Thanks Art

 

[DarrinG]

Being a relatively newbie to this pastime still, bear with my questions:

So you guys are saying NOT to use a bronze bore brush to clean/swab between shots? because the brush will grab into the fouling and get stuck?

I have been swabbing between shots with a damp patch (damp with rubbing alcohol) but when I am finished for the day and my thorough cleaning begins, after a soapy water bath, I've been sending an appropriate caliber bronze brush down the barrel on my range rod, 1/4 clockwise turn at the bottom, and back out, followed by wet patches. It seems to really help remove any stubborn fouling. I've never felt the brush even feel as if it was going to get stuck. But maybe you guys are referring to using the brush as a swabbing tool between shots? Forgive me if I am reading the replies wrong.

 

[mooman76]

For the most part they are talking about when you do a thorough cleaning at the end of the day. Some that have trouble on the range may us an occasional brush but a swab generally does the trick while shooting. I have no problems with brushes either. Generally I use a well used brush that doesn't fit so tight with a cleaning swab wrapped around it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

So you guys are saying NOT to use a bronze bore brush to clean/swab between shots? because the brush will grab into the fouling and get stuck?

No and yes. They do get stuck. Often very badly. But it is not fouling they get stuck on. What happens is the bristles push back and grip the bore as you try to pull it out. With enough force to try to remove it many/most rods will lose their tips and then you have a real problem. That is why this issue is such a commonly asked question here.

 

[Gene L]

The problem as I see it with a brush is the bristles push back toward the muzzle as the brush bottoms out, and it's near impossible to reverse them when you try to pull the brush back out. This is with a bore diameter brush.

 

[mooman76]

That's why you do as suggested and turn the brush a quarter turn clockwise to change the direction of the brush bristles. Then you can pull out without trying to force the bristles to reverse themselves.

 

[M. De Land]

Yes, a stiff nylon bristle brush for a .20 gauge shot gun is what I'm using in my.54.
If you push it down and try to reverse it without turning to the right it will not come out.
I made up a second one piece loading rod using 5/16s steel with a poly carbonate ball and Delrin rod guide, for the brush. Brushing would not be practical in the field but is great for match shooting.


Both loading rods are threaded 10-32 for the jags and brush.
I shot a 25 round match last week end using 90 grains of 2F in my.54 and did not foul out shooting in doors (which I dislike).
I prefer balls on loading rods as they keep you centered better than a T handle of some sort, while pushing on the rod. I made one with a moose antler handle for a friend but orientated it vertically rather than cross ways. Looks nice and the antler exterior gives a good grip but I still prefer a 1.5 inch ball for any loading rod.
The Delrin rod guides work the best of any I have made but are a pain to lathe turn and look crappy in short order as the fouling stains them.

 

[M. De Land]

This is the loading rod with the same ball for a handle but brass rod guide. Been using this one for a decade of so and it is excellent.

I like the looks of brass better but think Delrin is better material for the guide as you can't accidentally let is slip out of your fingers and slide down rod smashing into the land ends while loading.

 

[DarrinG]

Thanks for the replies. I have bronze 50 and 32 cal bore brushes from RMC Ox Yoke and they go up and down my 50 and 32 barrels easily and have never given clues as to they might get stuck. As I said before, I always give them a 1/4 turn at the bottom before pulled back up. I think the bristles get some hard fouling loose that a patch/jag just might leave.

 

[M. De Land]

Yes, they do clear fouling better, especially in the corners.
One more thing, Nylon bristles are not quite as stiff as bronze but they don't stay bent over like bronze does either. I use the really stiff ones with thick nylon bristles for shot gun cleaning.
You may have to turn or have made an adapter for shot gun brushes as they usually are a much larger shank and thread.
You can see one on my brush rod.

 

[M. De Land]

Patten breeches are the most susceptible to swab fouling with a damp patch between shots because the patch pushes most of the fouling ahead of it as it goes down bore and into the flash channel.
Brushing eliminates this issue because with the method I am using the fresh powder for the next shot goes down bore before the brush to clear fouling from the bore. Now the brushed down fouling is on top the fresh powder charge instead of the bottom of the breech in the fire channel. The brushed down fouling now acts as a barrier between the new wet patched ball and the fresh powder charge.
So now we have two fouling clearance strokes between each shot( brush down and wet patch ball seating)of the next shot.
We have also eliminated wet patch swab fouling in the breech/flash channel area.

 

[DarrinG]

Hummm....that makes good sense, M.D.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The Delrin rod guides work the best of any I have made but are a pain to lathe turn and look crappy in short order as the fouling stains them.

Delrin is soft stuff. My experience is easy to turn. And 'looks', this is the original dirty game. So wat? :wink: FWIW, Delrin can be purchased black or brown now. Another FWIW, when i first started selling Delrin rods all I could get was white. Tough sell. I think ml shooters would have rather run around in pink tu-tus than use a white rod.