Stuck jag in CVA mountain rifle

[Zonie]

Even with a 130 psi of air pressure available and directed into the barrel behind the stuck .54 caliber obstruction, this will result in only 29.77 pounds of force trying to push the stuck ball out of the barrel.

Will 29.77 pounds of force be enough to move it.

Maybe yes, maybe no.

If a teaspoon worth of water or alcohol is poured down the barrel first to soften up and lubricate the patch there is a much better chance it will be enough.

One of the reasons those C02 cartridge unloaders works is those little cartridges are pressurized to about 800 psi.

800 psi would be shoving on a .54 caliber obstruction with a 183 pound force.

That's a good reason to be aiming the barrel in a safe direction if a CO2 unit is being used.

As for a grease gun, they can easily develop over 1000 psi as they squirt the grease thru the zerk and into the barrel.

One problem with using the high pressure grease method is, whatever is plugging the barrel has to be pretty tight with no leaks thru or around it.

If the leak is small and a hand powered grease gun won't do it, take the barrel (only) to a lube shop. Their high pressure grease guns pump out grease much faster than a hand powered unit so it will often work where the hand powered one doesn't.
Not only that, it will give the guys at the lube shop something to laugh about for years to come.
"Yup! I once done gave a lube job to a gun barrel." :rotf:

Too bad the barrel is so messy to clean up when its fixed.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I think he meant using the air compressor to blow out the grease afterwards :idunno:

 

[azmntman]

always point muzzle at ceiling when blowing out grease :nono:

 

[ray j.]

haven't had anything stuck bad enough that a little lube and bumping the object, then air pressure and so far that is all it has taken..believe i would try the powder trickling next before pumping grease..

 

This might sound dangerous and most likely it is. Shoot the jag out. Remove the screw on the side of the fixture which holds the nipple and place a small charge of black powder in it. Perhaps no more then a small pinch of powder. Replace the screw. Tie the rifle down and have it pointing in an uninhabited area. Tie a string to the trigger and fire the gun. It should propel the stuck jag.

I had a similar problem with a Navy Arms Hawken with the cleaning rot getting stuck in the barrel. One shot did the trick.

The charge is so small that it won't damage the barrel if in fact it is in shooting condition. If this small charge damages the barrel you wouldn't want to shoot it with a normal target charge.

 

[Grenadier1758]

This might sound dangerous and most likely it is. Shoot the jag out. Remove the screw on the side of the fixture which holds the nipple and place a small charge of black powder in it. Perhaps no more then a small pinch of powder. Replace the screw. Tie the rifle down and have it pointing in an uninhabited area. Tie a string to the trigger and fire the gun. It should propel the stuck jag.

I had a similar problem with a Navy Arms Hawken with the cleaning rod getting stuck in the barrel. One shot did the trick.

The charge is so small that it won't damage the barrel if in fact it is in shooting condition. If this small charge damages the barrel you wouldn't want to shoot it with a normal target charge.

Let's recall the OP (original posting)

The catch; a brass jag was stuck 3/4 down the barrel by the previous owner. The jag is stuck so tight, it won't move up or down the bore. I tried a Co2 discharger and it didn't work.

So far we don't know if any of our previous suggestions have changed the situation. You are indeed creating a dangerous situation by putting powder into the firing chamber with 1/4 of the bore between the jag and the breech. Even a small amount of powder will generate a hazardous amount of pressure at the bore obstruction. It can bulge the barrel. Since the CO2 discharger didn't remove the jag, it is unlikely that a small amount of powder will move the jag.

The first step is to get the jag to move. Using a penetrant such as Kroil to soak the patch is the first step. The second step is to get a suitable rod such as a 7/16 or 1/2" steel rod from the hardware store that will fit the 54 caliber bore and follow the old tool maker's axiom, "don't force it, get a bigger hammer", to start the jag to move toward the breech. By now the fouling and the patch should have enough lubricant to allow movement with light tapping on the jag. Once the jag starts to move and can be seated at the breech, then powder can be added to shoot the jag out or use the CO2 discharger. At the worse a CVA barrel for the mountain rifle could be bought to replace this one with the stuck jag.

 

[Bruce M]

I had same thing in a cva.fiberglass ram rod broke 3/4 down with brass jag ,which I won't use any more only wood now.35 grains down thru nipple threads. Put some lube from jag to end of the barrel.Shot right out into an old pillow, too same my jag,Bruce

 

[Rifleman1776]

Put a light charge of bp into the flash channel, seat jag completely, and shoot out.
quote]
mabe there is a full charge down there already????

Yep. Good point. :redface: Safety obsessed me should have thought of that.

 

[nhmoose]

GREASE GUN, if you have one already. The grease fitting was cheap. and If its CVA my guess is its a 6x1mm thread?

grease gun

Yep another grease gun fan!!

 

[nhmoose]

Next time I have to use the grease gun, I'm going to load it with $1 store hand cream as originally suggested in my stuck ball situation.

Great idea I've been using the grease gun for years and never gave that a thought!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[bpd303]

Crisco also works and is easier to clean up.

 

[jamesthomas]

Well? any progress? :idunno: .