Stuck load

[renovato]

Birddog is right. Just stick a grease fitting on it and pump it out. That's the fastest, safest and easiest way.

 

[Birddog6]

If ya can, post a photo of one of them. And it actually says Connecticut Valley Arms "Hawken" on the barrel ? I didn;t know they marked their barrels as such. But then again, didn't pay much attention to them either.
I had a rifle a few year back that I bought on eBay when they first started up, paid ? $75. for it & cleaned it up & gave it to my nieces husband. They said it was a CVA Hawken but it didn't say that on the barrel. I have a BB Mtn. Rifle I built back in the 70's but it doesn't say anything on the barrel except CVA, doesn't say what style & etc.

You get the nipple out or are you still soaking it ?

 

[Runner]

Yes, they say Hawken Rifle on the barrel. CVA also sold a St. Louis Hawken rifle.

All the throw it away stuff is confusing. If ment to be funny, you missed. I compete, practice, and hunt with almost all CVA products. I don't have the Penn rifle, the big bore Mountain Rifle, the 32 Squirrel gun, or the Military 58 they put out. I would like to have all of them. I do have the Hawken in 50 and 54, the Bobcat in 36, the Mountain rifle in 50, and the Trapper convertible in 12 guage/50 caliber at this time. I really would like to get the old Penn rifle.

No I have not made up a tool to pull the nipple the rest of the way. I plan to do that today sometime after I wake up. The stock has all of the old finish scraped or sanded off. It was build with a clear coat and no stain. The owner put something darker on over the original finish, so it was pretty easy to get it down to ready for staining to start again. I am working on the wrist area, shaping it a little bit.

My father built this kit for someone else. He is not into muzzleloaders really at all. He smoothed the kit stock down and finished it. He did not try to do any slimming or shaping. He matched wood to the existing buttplate and nose cap. I have a couple of hours sanding to actually blend the brass into the wood the way it is, and it will be pretty close to ready for the first coat of stain. Typical CVA wood. Good grain and figure running thru the stock in one layer that is cut wrong to show!

 

[boar]

I have two CVA ST Louis Hawkens, they both have a 50 and 54 barrels. Made in the 80's cap locks. Dilly

 

[patch knife]

All the throw it away stuff is confusing. If ment to be funny, you missed. I compete, practice, and hunt with almost all CVA products.

I don't think anyone is trying to be funny or putting down CVA products . I think they are telling you that if the barrel is in such poor condition , trying to resurect it may be an exercise in frustration and a waste of time . Kinda like whipping a dead horse . However , if you think you can fix the barrel , go for it ! :thumbsup:

 

[patch knife]

You might also try to remove the breechplug (or have a gunsmith do it for you) and push the load out :hmm: .

 

[Runner]

Ok, that makes sense I guess. If it is that bad, I will need it to use as a pattern on the new one anyway! That is the one true failing in halfstock factory rifles these days. I like about a 36 inch barrel. Have to have one made if that is what you want that anyway.
The barrel is cutting patches on the edges of the lands. I am going to polish it out to where a patch slides smooth and shoot it to see. Almost new barrel and just bad enough to be worrisome. The barrel is still sharp corners in the white. It is worth some effort I think.

 

[patch knife]

I wish you the best of luck on your endevor Runner . If it was my barrel I would soak the bore with WD40 and wrap a scocthbrite around a bronze bore brush and see if I could get the rust out of the bore first . If the bore is rusted so bad that you can't get the rust out of the bore , you won't be able to use it anyway , so why bother with it at all ? If you can get the rust out , then you should be able to pull the ball out with a ball puller although it may not be easy , it should come out with some effort . You may want to use a steel rod with a "T" handle , or some such thing to do this . I wouldn't remove the breechplug unless I absolutly had to . Seeing as how the nipple doesn't want to come out , the breechplug might be impossible , but it is an option . I wouldn't worry about the screw in the drum , I never take mine out , I just use pipe cleaners to clean the flash channel .