Stuck wedge in 1851 Navy

[nkbj]

Drop me a pm if the barrel won't come off after you undo what Luigi did.
:yakyak:

 

[denster]

I understand the principal. Tapping the wedge from both sides accomplishes the same purpose in a more efficient manner. Yes I am aware that steel has elasticity. Just for your info my Freedom Arms has a B/C gap from the factory of .001. Original Colts had a close B/C gap not as close as .002 but Colt on the originals had a reduced diameter ring on the arbor just in front of the cylinder. Without going into great detail it redirected the fouling from getting between the arbor and cylinder.
I still don't think you have ever removed the wedge from a brand new Pietta that had been forced in at the factory.

 

[M. De Land]

My 1860 Pietta had both a soft wedge and trigger from the factory. I tried several times to case harden the trigger but it would not harden deep enough to suit me and the wedge was to small so I machined new ones of 0-1 tool steel, hardened and fit,both have worked correctly since.
Early Pietta's were not correctly hardened in certain parts or fit as well as the later versions were. Mine was purchased new about 30 years ago.

 

[M. De Land]

Not so, If you hit the muzzle back toward the frame you unload both sides of the wedge simultaneously against the barrel slots and the front of the arbor slot.
If a burr was raised from a soft wedge it will be on the barrel slots side.

 

[denster]

OK tell the truth. Have you ever used that method to release the wedge on a new Pietta that had the wedge force fit from the factory or are you just speculating that it should work that way?

I can see where that would work with a Uberti with the slop they leave in the arbor hole.

 

[M. De Land]

No,I've not used the technique on a recent Pietta as my gun as stated is 30 years old.
Give it a try and see if it works for you. It makes perfect sense if you give it some thought, tight arbor stop or not.
I have how ever use the in hand knock out of a tight wedge from as far back as I can remember rather than pounding it out against some kind of block on the off side.

 

[denster]

OK fair enough. I don't believe it can have any effect but since it can't cause any harm the next time I run across one I will give it a whirl.
Just in passing the only resemblance of a 30 year old Pietta to the Piettas of today is the name on the barrel.

 

[azmntman]

Late to jump in but I bought a Pietta 12" .45 about 3-4 years back and it had no problems? Perhaps Luigi was off the day it was put together? Is this a recent issue?

 

[denster]

Not a recent issues. As I recall came about around the time Pietta went to CNC machining and that has been a number of years ago.
It is not a problem with all of them. Apparently luigi must be part time. My most recent as of this year also had no wedge problems just tapped out like it was supposed to.

 

[saaman]

I worked on a 36 Navy Pietta and had to use a heavy hammer to pound the wedge out. I have an 1860 Army Pietta that was nearly as tight--when it finally came out I sanded the sides of the wedge so it would come out easier. Now it still fits tight but a tap with a rubber hammer loosens it enough to pull out with my hand.

 

[Hellgate]

A couple 3 years ago there was a rash of "How do I remove a stuck wedge in my Pietta?" postings on various shooting forums. I suspect Guido got his comuppins and was properly instructed in wedge installation. I haven't seen the problem recently til now (on an older pistol).

 

[bigted]

Interesting discussion. I like the back n forth as i get two perspectives in loud clarity, which makes me think.

I have experienced the "stuck" wedge problem as well on Pietta revolvers. I have a great way to deal with this and it has never let me down.

Being an old Cat mechanic, the old bigger pry bar and heavier hammer thing has worked for me with very few oops ... however revolvers hardly require either method for successful fixin.

I own a couple Lyman punch sets and the corresponding hammer with each set to include the screw in heads for the hammer face ( very aggravating for me as they require constant tightening).

I take the plastic hammer face on one side and the brass face on the other. I begin tapping with the hard plastic end and if this does nothing, then i turn the hammer over and use the brass face. I for-go the punch as I believe the cold harsh impact without the shock reducing effect of a punch is what is required in these instances. This has worked every time for me and i also believe in holding the revolver left side down in the palm of my left hand when doing such.

If i inadvertently "peen" the right side of the wedge [ have done so once on a very reluctant wedge ] then when i get it loosened I proceeded to file back the slight flair of the peen BEFORE trying to completely remove the wedge through the barrel/arbor slots.

Anyhew ... that's my penny for my thoughts.