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Stupid stuck nipple

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Kroil is the best, then PB.
I just took the cones out of the 1860 for the first time. the last one would not move.
I made a modified socket like stated about. I used a impact driver, one whack. Then the racket.
Came right out with no juice needed, and I have Kroil and PB standing by.
A fellow who restored a large number of original rifles told me he would take a rusty percussion barrel and submerge the breech in a container of water and leave it there for a week, at which time the nipple could be removed. He did the same thing with antique locks, where he could remove original rusted screws, clean and re-use them. The water would turn the rust in the threads to a black dust. His explanation was water put the rust there and water will remove it. I tried it myself only once on an original 1858 Remington revolver and all the nipples came out, at which point I cleaned, oiled and re-used them.
 
Kroil and heat. Lightly tapping the wrench while applying some force can help as well.

In the FUTURE, put some anti seize on the threads and remove the nipple each time you clean the gun. Reapply the anti seize each time and DON'T over tighten the nipple. It only needs to be snug.
Spark plugs and exhaust collars were notorious for getting stuck on old motorcycles. We use powdered graphite anti-seize since it was capable of enduring high temperatures and lasted forever. A dry, slippery gray-ish powder, it reminded me of a crushed up No.2 pencil lead. I use this stuff on all my nipple threads
 
The best luck I ever had removing stuck nipples was with an impact driver. Of course you soak with some penetrating oil first, but after every other attempt failed a couple of hammer taps with the impact driver would do the job.
I have used a hand held impact tool similar to this one I found on Amazon. Mine is presently in the unobtanium category at Harbor Freught. I did have to shape a 5mm 1/4 hex drive socket to fit my nipple.

ARES 18026-1/4-Inch Drive Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Includes 6-Piece Flathead, Phillips, and Spiral Screw Extractor Bit Set - Disengage Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts - Compact Design​

 
Removed barrel from the stock... sprayed pb blaster in a jar.... stuck nipple side of barrel in a jar.... lettin it soak a while before I end up slinging that barrel across the highway 🤣

Bright side is i can clean my lock now while the barrel is out
 
Kroil has saved me a number of times.

Was once asked to rescue an 1858 Remington cylinder full of some very buggered up nipples. No idea what they were using for a wrench but there was no way any type of tool was able to grip anything.

As the nipples were all toast anyway I found the right size easy out and turned them out that way.
 
project farm who nobody can match the equipment he has and the tests he runs did a matchup of penetrating oil. kroil was not good at all neither was PB. good old liquid wrench came in second place. most of them didnt do that good. that test is on U tube
 
Trying to replace the old nipple on my Fox River Fifty but its stuck.

I tried hittin it with wd40 for the last 3 days to get it to break loose but all I did was ruin a brand new nipple wrench lol

I already know now to remove that "clean out" on the drum screw so no worries there.

Bout to just say heck with it and put it on the wall and move on.
Heat it with a heat gun or pen torch
 
Well boys we have success!!!!

After buggering the nipple and round off the edges making it impossible to get a good grip.

I pulled out the dremel and squared off the edges of the nipple and with a 5.5m wrench and enough pb blaster and heat to warm a small community... she broke free and was tight the whole way out.

Back in the days when I got this rifle Im 100% certain it was Pyrodex we used and I can tell it wasnt cleaned properly. The inside of the drum is nice and orange and loaded with crud.

Now the real fun begins!!!

Appreciate every one of yalls help!!
 
A fellow who restored a large number of original rifles told me he would take a rusty percussion barrel and submerge the breech in a container of water and leave it there for a week, at which time the nipple could be removed. He did the same thing with antique locks, where he could remove original rusted screws, clean and re-use them. The water would turn the rust in the threads to a black dust. His explanation was water put the rust there and water will remove it. I tried it myself only once on an original 1858 Remington revolver and all the nipples came out, at which point I cleaned, oiled and re-used them.
A notable gunsmith ( +60 years building flintlocks) recently told me the same thing about a rusty lock part.
 
Well boys we have success!!!!

After buggering the nipple and round off the edges making it impossible to get a good grip.

I pulled out the dremel and squared off the edges of the nipple and with a 5.5m wrench and enough pb blaster and heat to warm a small community... she broke free and was tight the whole way out.

Back in the days when I got this rifle Im 100% certain it was Pyrodex we used and I can tell it wasnt cleaned properly. The inside of the drum is nice and orange and loaded with crud.

Now the real fun begins!!!

Appreciate every one of yalls help!!
Be prepared. There will be many more replies yet from those who don't read fully. Lol
Walk
 
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