Suggestions for damaged screw

[Columbus]

It was already damaged when I got it and soaking in solvent and a whole lot of heat still wouldn't budge it and I damaged it more. Can't get a bite on it at all now and the angle of the slot makes it really hard to saw or cut it deeper without hitting the frame. The bolt/trigger spring is fine and as far as function goes it's out of sight and has no effect on the gun at all, but .. I know it's there and want to replace it. Any suggestions?

 

[Kansas Jake]

Two possible suggestions, but either one may create problems. 1. use a Dremel with a thin cutting wheel and try to deepen the slot without cutting the frame and get it out and order a new screw or clean up this one and freshen the slot. 2. buy a set of the left hand drill bits from Harbor Freight and drill it out and replace with a new screw. The left hand drill bits will probably pull it out before you get into the hole threads if you are lucky. If not, they use an easy out.

 

[bubba.50]

You might try one of those impact drivers that ya put as much pressure as ya can while smackin’ it with a small hammer.

 

[Nyckname]

Screw extractors.

https://m.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

 

[russellshaffer]

Combine two good ideas. Deapen the slot with a Dremel or even maybe a cold chisel. Then use the impact driver. I did that once with a set of MotoGuzzi valve covers. If that doesn't work then go to the extractors.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Put frame in vice and take a capeing chisel or grind a center punch half flat and walk the screw out with the punch and small hammer working towards the outer edge of screw going counter clockwise. It will work with a couple taps of the hammer on that screw.

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Dremel gut off wheels wear down. That might be an advantage. A worn one might be easier to use when cutting into the screw slot.

 

[Scota4570]

Put some penetrating oil under to get a the threads. Pene the metal back in place to reform the slot. Use a polished end pin punch.

Buy a set of good screwdrivers and bits. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...iece-professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set

Take a driver bit that fits the slot correctly and tap it down into the slot to make it fit perfectly and to loosen the threads like an impact wrench. Finally use a driver handle on the fitted bit to try to loosen. IF it still tried to walk out, hold the driver bit in a drill press, push down hard, and turn the bit with a wrench.

Making the slot wider will make it weaker and cause the head to shear off.
The dremil cut off disks will mar the frame.
Screw extractors are too big for this.
Trying to spin it with a chissel and hammer will end in disaster.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Resting the palm of your hand on the frame to control the chisel or punch will not result in disaster. I have removed thousands of stuck screws in my 40 years as a machinist this way.

 

[hawkeye2]

The gun works fine and you can't see it? Walk away from it till you need to remove it, if ever, for some reason. When that happens do as Kansas Kid says. Leave the Dremel in its case.

 

[Carbon 6]

Take it to a professional. The more you try, the more you're going to screw it up, the harder it's going to be to remove.

By "professional" I don't mean your local gunsmith. I mean somebody experienced and equipped to remove broken and rusted bolts and screws, and then be able to make a new one. Cause I'll bet that screw won't be easy to replace.

You'll make a mess with a dremel, that screw is recessed.. Impact screw driver might work, I too have used them on motor bikes. I've also used a chisel, but that screw is small and again recessed. If you slip with a chisel you'll have a mistake you can't fix.
A good welder could tig weld or silver solder a nut onto the screw head.

An Idea I've been tossing around is an ultrasonic cleaner filled with Kroil. I've seen rusted and torqued nuts fall off after being exposed to hours of kroil and constant vibration.

Best of luck.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Go to egunparts.com first and order a new screw for the make and model you have. No one is going to make a new one for less than what the gun cost. Or as said just put it back together and forget about it.

 

[denster]

Use a flat punch to move displaced metal back then clean up the slot with a small grinding stone in the dremel keeping the sides of the slot vertical. Then get a 1/4" drive impact driver(ebay or amazon about 15 bucks and it will pay for itself many times over) use the best fitting bit you have. Chuck the frame solidly in a vice and put firm downward pressure on the impact driver. Firmly tap the driver with a medium hammer. Not pound tap firmly and watch for the screw to start turning it may take quite a few firm taps but it will turn. When it does remove in the usual manner.

 

[Poboy]

Anyone touching a firearm screw should have a set of gunsmith screwdriver tips. Nearly impossible to do what you have with the proper size tip.

Common screwdrivers and tips are tapered, while gunsmith tips have straight sides and fit in the slot like a glove, requiring minimal downforce to keep them engaged.

Not picking on you, but for future reference and to help others before they wind up in your situation.

I would try a dremel with a very small straight sided diamond burr, not to deepen the slot, but widen it with square sides to fit the proper gunsmith screwdriver tip.

 

[Columbus]

Anyone touching a firearm screw should have a set of gunsmith screwdriver tips. Nearly impossible to do what you have with the proper size tip.

I have the Wheeler set. The screw was already damaged when I got the gun. Just wasn't enough slot left to get a good fit no matter what you used.

 

[BlackHillsBob]

thin blade on a dremel motor, cut a new groove. suggestion, put in a wolf wire spring instead of a flat one. flat ones will break some day, wold wire springs wont. some break sooner some later but the flat ones will break. again a wolf wire spring wont break.

 

[Melnic]

I'd rather have a wider slot that has flat vertical sides or slightly under cut than a slot that is thinner but opened up.
If you widen it and make it flat, you can take a cheap or junk screw driver and grind/cut it shorter to get to the fatter part of the screw driver. You want the screw driver to fit into the slot like a glove with little play with surface contact all along the vertical surface. If you do that, then it is not as likely to slip on you. Sometimes you will find that heat cycling will get it to seperate. heat, cool heat cool heat turn

 

[azmntman]

Twere it me I'd lock it up tight in a vise and lock the vise up tight in a drill press and start small and work up then extractor. Take yer time, few steps, penetrating oil (and/or solvent, its gotta be baked in as well), you'll get it out but patience is your friend. Then take the thing to a nuts/bolt shop (we have "Copperstate Nut & Bolt" here, they have never not had something that will work for me).

Keep us posted.

 

[ZUG]

Stop "mucking" at it and send it off to <http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=299&cat=Fix+My+Gun+Service> if you want it fixed correctly. If you don't want to send the frame off to get professionally fixed then try this but you will need a drill press or a mill: Clamp the frame in a padded vise such that the screw head is facing the chuck - place a GOOD screwdriver bit into the chuck - apply downward force with the drill press quill to engage the screw head slot and while applying doward force turn the chuck counter clockwise to unscrew the screw. If that fails then sent it off to VTI.

 

[denster]

Use a flat punch to move displaced metal back then clean up the slot with a small grinding stone in the dremel keeping the sides of the slot vertical. Then get a 1/4" drive impact driver(ebay or amazon about 15 bucks and it will pay for itself many times over) use the best fitting bit you have. Chuck the frame solidly in a vice and put firm downward pressure on the impact driver. Firmly tap the driver with a medium hammer. Not pound tap firmly and watch for the screw to start turning it may take quite a few firm taps but it will turn. When it does remove in the usual manner.

This is the tool I was referring to. Anyone who does any gunsmithing work needs this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Performanc...563788&hash=item4d8f24d884:g:9~EAAOSwgBVciD4W