suggestions for stock finish

[buzz]

folks been redoing a long rifle and wanted to know what folks suggest for a finish of the stock
when i did this one years ago i used varnish of some sort i have totaly removed that and resanded and reshaped for the earlyer misgivings
so now wanted to asked what a good finish to use
i want to use some kind of stain to darken up the stock and then a wipe on finsih of some kind
thanks for any ideas or suggestions in advance

 

[rabjr]

Jim Chambers finish.

 

[Headhunter]

My Hands down favorite is OKENE. Good stuff.

HH

 

[Capt. Fred]

I start with two coats of tru oil but I buff most of it off with steel wool or the white scotch brite pads between coats. I put the tru oil on heavy and because of that it ends up shiny. This helps to show EVERY defective spot in the sanding job I did. So, I buff most of the finish off while fixing the defects. Because the tru oil is so hard it is easy to rub these funky spots down without worrying about getting down into the stain. I just find it really helpfull in that whole process.

Then I switch to Chamber's finish. It gives a real nice finish and it is amazingly easy to work with. It is easiest to work with when your shop is a little on the cool side. Otherwise it gets tacky pretty fast.

For stains, I use the LMF maple, honey maple, and walnut. They are the only ones I've tried but they seem fine to me.

 

[mikemeteor]

vote #3 for Jim Chambers. :thumbsup:
have only done 1 gun, but have done a LOT of wood finishing - that stuff is nice.

 

[LRB]

Vote 4 for Chambers.

 

[Vaino]

How shiny is the Chambers' finish seeing I favor a very dull sheen and don't want to go over w/ stl wool or pumice to achieve it?.....Fred

 

[rabjr]

How shiny is the Chambers' finish seeing I favor a very dull sheen and don't want to go over w/ stl wool or pumice to achieve it?.....Fred

Jim says if you find it to shiney, thats exactly what to do.

I wonder if a good going over with a piece of burlap after the last coat would work to dull it. :hmm:

 

[dlpowell]

You want an alcohol based stain, not oil. Alcohol stain can be slathered on repeatedly with no worries about dark spots.

I use Fiebrings leather dye followed by a dark colored Briwax finish, hand rubbed.

If you want some wear, take a heavy piece of burlap and buff it.

 

[ron ward]

i recently finished up a very curly stock for a high power gun and stumbled upon a great finish. i was digging through my varish cabinet to see what i had and found a can of year old Cabot eurathane that had only about a 1/4 inch in the bottom of the can. it was about as thick as molasses and very dark. i tried a bit on a piece of scrap, just rubbing it on with my fingers and it worked real good. behaved very much like true oil and dried in about an hour, hard as could be.
well, i used it on the stock and it was the easiest, best finish i ever put on a piece of wood. the first coat rubbed in almost completely and the second built over that just perfectly, with a 600 wet sanding between. i think the sheen is just about right after a rubbing with johnson's paste wax on a scotchbrite pad. i use the paste wax more as a lubricant for the scotch brite pad's scuffing than actually as a wax. after the rub out i wipe the entire stock down with a clean cloth and the finish is smooth as glass with just enough sheen to show figure and detail real well.
now i just have to figure out how accellorate the drying of some more of that eurethane so i don't have to wait another year to finish my next stock.
another tidbit about coloring or tinting finishes. the big box stores that handle Varithane brand finshing products will have a rack of small sample packets of thier stain colors. they cost about 25 cents each and they're great for tinting any rub-on finish. they are totaly compatible with any rub-on that is made up of tounge, or BLO and spirits. essentially, all of these finishes are just eurethanes, thinned out for rub-on application and can be tinted with mineral based stains.

 

[laney1566]

tru-oil. Steel wool for the first few coates, then hand rub into the stock for as many as you want after. I think I used 10 coates total.
I used BC walnut stain before the tru-oil was applied. Gave a nice and dark finish to the gun after all was completed.

 

[smokehouseman]

Sounds good, how does that hold up against moisture?

 

[Capt. Fred]

Fred, these pics of my .40 cal show the Chambers finish.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/241084/

This is with about 4 or 5 real thin coats put on after the tru oil and the pictures show it pretty much how it looks. I've seen pics of your work and honestly, I'm not sure I'd change a thing if I were you!

 

[Vaino]

That's about the sheen I prefer and it's a beautiful LR.....Fred

 

[dlpowell]

I don't worry about moisture.

Wood is a natural sponge.

It expands with humidity and moisture and contracts with heat, age, and neglect.

I don't make closet queens or safe queens out of my guns. Their out in the open where I can admire them and give 'em a little tlc when they need it.

So, I just don't worry about moisture.

If the finish gets screwed up in any way. I take long consideration if it's "charecter" or gotta be fixed.

Didn't mean to ramble.

I just think we tend to make this sport more of a hassle and worry than it needs to be.

 

[Birddog6]

If you want it sealed from moisture, Tru-Oil or Permalyn will do it, and most others won't.
I prefer either on my stock & then rub them back to a soft sheen. Have always had good results with both of them. Have tried several others, but always come back to the Tru-Oil or Permalyn.

 

[Derek Rose]

wet the wood..that will raise the grain. Let it dry, now sand it with v fine glass paper. several coats of sanding sealer, well thinned with cellulose thinners, fine sanded between coats, then bees wax.(briwax is good too). If you want a subtle stain to even the wood out, paint it with a really strong cup of tea (No milk or sugar!)at the first step.