• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

swabbing for accuracy

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ss1 said:
I understand what you are saying, and agree. However, if so, fowling problems is caused ONLY by using the wrong LUB. RIGHT LUB no fowling. Shoot all day long with no cleaning. Sorta sounds wrong, but I don't know why.

I'm not a powder or lube expert...just speaking from my limited personal hands on experiences...I would say other alternatives are not using enough lube, or not using a lube that is "wet" enough for the conditions, or a powder that fouls so bad it is beyond ability of lubes to deal with it...ie: I've had a few cans from one lot# of Elephant 3F that literally couldn't be used it was of such poor quality...left fouling chunks so large they appeared to be pieces of wood.
 
ss1 said:
I understand what you are saying, and agree. However, if so, fowling problems is caused ONLY by using the wrong LUB. RIGHT LUB no fowling. Shoot all day long with no cleaning. Sorta sounds wrong, but I don't know why.
IMHO the degree of fouling is brought on by the kind of lube, and projectile you are using, and the kind of powder you use (Goex, Pyrodex, Elephant, ETC.), and the grade (FFG, FFFG, P, RS, ETC.), also the temperature, and humidity you are shooting in. So IMHO there are many factors to be considered when dealing with fouling.
 
If swabbing after loading helps, then you may be either using too loose a ball/patch combo or maybe you need a bit more lube on the patch. A tight ball w/patch ought to squeege the bore nice and clean. "The next shot cleans the one before".
 
I use Goex. If the lube you use disolves blackpowder (water , spit or a lube containing water)You won't have to swab between shots but if you use an oily or greasy lube that doesn't disolve blackpowder then you need to swab between shots. I shoot in a very dry climate most of the time but have shot in humid climes with the same results. I use very wet spit patches and never swab between shots. My guns are very accurate with this system.
 
Deadeye said:
"...but if you use an oily or greasy lube that doesn't disolve blackpowder then you need to swab between shots..."

FWIW, this may be splitting hairs as I don't know if Natural Lube 1000 actually "dissolves" blackpower (fouling) or not...but I would definitely call it greasy...and it minimizes the amount of fouling, keeps what little fouling there is very soft, and allows shooting without swabbing beween shots.
 
Natural Lube 1000 is easier to apply when it's warm outside.

Like, last Sunday I used it over the balls in my .36 C&B revolver when it was 109 degrees outside. Just to make sure it wouldn't be too stiff, I left the tube in the sun for about an hour before using it.

I found that all I had to do was to remove the cap and pour it into the mouth of the chambers. Now what could be easier than that? :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :confused:
 
Rebel said:
Only if you want to get your ramrod REALLY stuck in the bore. Never swab with a dry patch.

Depends on the humidity......and don't wait....a dry patch works well in my 32....sometimes

....a light wet patch works most of the time.
 
Greetings All,

I like Paul's comment. "What is the hurry"?......
"This is muzzle loading".

Also like BS'S comment about, "humidity in the air".

Range shooting for me is not hunting. It is a time for leisurely shooting, so why not wipe the bore between shots?

Besides, in here in the Republic of Texas, most of the country has either a dry and hot or very dry and very hot climate.

Under these conditions, you had better wipe the bore between shots, else that black powder fouling will set up like "cement" in about three shots.

The type of and/or amount of lube will not make any difference when the weather is hot and dry here in Texas. Now maybe hot and dry in Texas is different in other places outside of Texas, but here we only know two kinds, as previously stated.

I did notice that during some of my trips to shoot in the Colorado State Muzzling Loading Championships, wiping the bore between shots was also necessary there. That high mountain air in Arapaho National Forest was also dry and hot.

After shooting for a few hours, a young man asked if wiping the bore between shots helped all that much? My reply was that it helped me.

The next relay, he was wiping his bore between shots. After three or four shots, he turn to his friend, and said, "Hey, if you wipe that barrel after every shot, that ball will go down better".

Within a short time, a number of shooters were wiping their rifle bores between shoots or at least every other shot.

And all I ever said was that it helped me; did not
try to debate the question.

In my 52 years of shooting black powder, I have tried every lube, commercial and home brewed that have been posted on this forum, plus others that have not been. The results have always been the same here in the Republic of Texas; wiping the bore between shots is required.

I do think that wiping the bore dry with a second dry patch will affect accuracy, DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF PATCH LUBE USED.

As an example. most forum members know that I am fond of Teflon coated patching material and a commercial solvent called Black-Solve. However, I do not always use Teflon coated pathing material.

For 90% - 95% of my range work, I not only use the Black-Solve to wipe the bore between shoots, but also mist my untreated cotton patching material with Black-Solve as a lubricant. The bore is wiped with a Black-Solve dampened cleaning patch three times with each side of the same patch. A second patch IS NOT used to dry the bore. In thi instance, the bore wiping solvent and the patching lube are the same, therefore compatible.

However, when using the Teflon coated patching material, it is mandatory to dry the bore with a second patch. Without wiping the bore dry, there is a noticeable decrease in grouping accuracy.

Some of the other grease base patching lubricants show the same results in respect to a damp and/or dry bore. Black-Solve, you see, is a water-based solvent.

And finally no; I do not use a spit patch. In the hot and dry climate of Texas, I am unable to produce enougn spit for a day of shooting.

Best regards and good shooting,

John L. Hinnant

If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.
 
In my 52 years of shooting black powder, I have tried every lube, commercial and home brewed that have been posted on this forum, plus others that have not been. The results have always been the same here in the Republic of Texas; wiping the bore between shots is required.

Thanks to you and others, it didn't take me 52 years to figure it out. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

But you do need to adjust how wet. :hmm:
 
Back
Top