Hi guys, I have a 32 cal., 35inch, 13/16 wide barrel. I want to swamp it a little. Is there a simple was to do this? I have draw filled a barrel before, but not to swamp it. If it is to hard to do, I might just leave it alone. Thanks for the advice. Eldo
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swamping a barrel
- Thread starter Eldo
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Col. Batguano
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If you look at the measurements from Gunsmith of Grenville County, you will see there isn't a lot of swamp to the old guns. I've heard of a few guys doing it by hand with a jig and a file here, and most came away from the experience saying once in their lives was enough.
I think the barrel makers do it with either milling machines, or with grinders. I have no idea if that is before, or after the bore is drilled.
Rice only charges about a $65 premium for their swamped vs straight barrel pricing. You'll probably wear out that much value in files if you choose to do it yourself by hand, and you're not likely to be as accurate.
Charles Burton is truly a custom barrel maker. If you give him your specifications, he'll make for you pretty much anything you want, HC / PC or not. But be prepared to wait.
I think the barrel makers do it with either milling machines, or with grinders. I have no idea if that is before, or after the bore is drilled.
Rice only charges about a $65 premium for their swamped vs straight barrel pricing. You'll probably wear out that much value in files if you choose to do it yourself by hand, and you're not likely to be as accurate.
Charles Burton is truly a custom barrel maker. If you give him your specifications, he'll make for you pretty much anything you want, HC / PC or not. But be prepared to wait.
galamb
58 Cal.
A couple of guys either on this site or another site I frequent have "hand swamped" a barrel.
One of them noted that he is glad for the experience but would never undertake it again.
My advice would be along those lines.
If YOU want the experience of hand swamping a barrel, to see what it's like (the process) then certainly go for it.
You are already starting out with a very small ATF barrel and perhaps you don't want to go much below 5/8" at the waist and then (what) flair it out to 3/4" at the muzzle - I kinda picked those numbers based on what a (typical) swamp pattern might look like (largest at the breech, muzzle a little smaller than the breech with the slim waist).
It would be a lot of filing, a lot of measuring, a lot of very tedious work - might be tough to keep it (uniform), you do have to repeat exactly the same result on all eight flats (or hide it really well in a full stock).
If you are considering this to save some weight or make a rifle look more like a particular original - if that's the "motivation" I would buy a swamped barrel - it will save you countless hours of work...
One of them noted that he is glad for the experience but would never undertake it again.
My advice would be along those lines.
If YOU want the experience of hand swamping a barrel, to see what it's like (the process) then certainly go for it.
You are already starting out with a very small ATF barrel and perhaps you don't want to go much below 5/8" at the waist and then (what) flair it out to 3/4" at the muzzle - I kinda picked those numbers based on what a (typical) swamp pattern might look like (largest at the breech, muzzle a little smaller than the breech with the slim waist).
It would be a lot of filing, a lot of measuring, a lot of very tedious work - might be tough to keep it (uniform), you do have to repeat exactly the same result on all eight flats (or hide it really well in a full stock).
If you are considering this to save some weight or make a rifle look more like a particular original - if that's the "motivation" I would buy a swamped barrel - it will save you countless hours of work...
Gustavo Hoefs
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Octagon to round on the lathe would be easier and still be attractive
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Hi Eldo,
I have swamped several barrels by hand. The first important question is, who made the barrel? If is a Green Mountain barrel, I suggest not trying to swamp it. The steel they use is very tough. Getz, Rice, and Colerain barrels are usually 12L14, which is much easier to work. I draw a plan of the final barrel dimentions and measure the diameter at every 6". Then I calculate how deep to file the barrel flats at each of those 6" locations. I file flat bottom grooves across the the width of the flats at each location to the proper depth. Those serve as my index marks. Then I simply use a coarse lathe file to remove metal until the grooves disappear. Finally, I take the lathe file and hold it as close to parallel to the bore as I can and draw file the barrel to smooth out the inevitable ripples left from the initially shaping. A long rifle barrel takes me about 6-8 hours of work.
dave
I have swamped several barrels by hand. The first important question is, who made the barrel? If is a Green Mountain barrel, I suggest not trying to swamp it. The steel they use is very tough. Getz, Rice, and Colerain barrels are usually 12L14, which is much easier to work. I draw a plan of the final barrel dimentions and measure the diameter at every 6". Then I calculate how deep to file the barrel flats at each of those 6" locations. I file flat bottom grooves across the the width of the flats at each location to the proper depth. Those serve as my index marks. Then I simply use a coarse lathe file to remove metal until the grooves disappear. Finally, I take the lathe file and hold it as close to parallel to the bore as I can and draw file the barrel to smooth out the inevitable ripples left from the initially shaping. A long rifle barrel takes me about 6-8 hours of work.
dave
ohio ramrod
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I also have hand filed a swamp into a barrel and agree it is an 6 to 8 hour job with new sharp files, one course cutting and one fine cutting. Would I do it again, no way! :idunno:
Hi,
Swamping a barrel on the milling machine is easy ( lots of measuring )
For a rifle that is a joy to handle and hunt with, octagon to round is the way to go.
I have a .45 cal. longrifle ( barrel is 42" ) and it is a true joy to shoot.
It feels like a flyrod!
Fred
Swamping a barrel on the milling machine is easy ( lots of measuring )
For a rifle that is a joy to handle and hunt with, octagon to round is the way to go.
I have a .45 cal. longrifle ( barrel is 42" ) and it is a true joy to shoot.
It feels like a flyrod!
Fred
Doug Lykins
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I've done it, not so bad if you don't mind taking the time. A couple of good 14" files, a dial caliper and around 10 hours total time are needed. Take .005" from one flat, rotate, and go all the way around the barrel. Then repeat. It is a mess, you'll have steel wool shavings everywhere. Have fun! :wink:
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Eldo,
First of all, you could not have gotten better advice on how to do it by hand than that given by Dave Person and others above.
However, you did not mention how much experience you have with filing metal flat by hand and draw filing. If you have never done it before, or don't have much experience, I would most strongly suggest getting the experience first and before you go to work on a barrel.
When I was an Instructor, I taught apprentices the "Art and Mystery of Zen Hand and Draw Filing" by first using scrap pieces of steel and that is still the best way to learn it. Oh, that was just a catchy way to describe it, that seemed to open them up on how to do it. :haha:
Gus
First of all, you could not have gotten better advice on how to do it by hand than that given by Dave Person and others above.
However, you did not mention how much experience you have with filing metal flat by hand and draw filing. If you have never done it before, or don't have much experience, I would most strongly suggest getting the experience first and before you go to work on a barrel.
When I was an Instructor, I taught apprentices the "Art and Mystery of Zen Hand and Draw Filing" by first using scrap pieces of steel and that is still the best way to learn it. Oh, that was just a catchy way to describe it, that seemed to open them up on how to do it. :haha:
Gus
