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T/C bore butter

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Mad Monk said:
It was my understanding that they shot patched round balls and the patches were lubed with the 1000 Shot Plus lube. The question in my mind was how tight of a patch and ball combination were they using.
How big of a hammer did they need to beat them down the bore?

Yeah, and how hot was it in that building?

It's interesting that you mention the lube wars of the 1980's. Since you jogged my memory, I do remember those adds. I didn't believe the hype then, and I don't believe it now.

I did try borebutter several years ago, simply because my oldest won a tube and wouldn't sell the stuff. It worked well enough during hot weather, but not at all when the temps fell into the 40's.

It was a bear to get it all out when cleaning too.

There are a number of good lubes on the market, not to mention good home made lubes, and since the question was ask, what, in your opinion, is the best patch lube out there. PM me if you don't want to answer this one publicly. I don't want see you getting in trouble for telling the truth.
J.D.
 
If you haven't tryed Go-Jo white hand cleaner as a patch lube check it out. Works for me, and as a field cleaner/wipedown also. If you don't like it you can always use it for it's intended purpose, cleaning your hands after a shooting session! A couple patches or bore mop wet with that stuff really brings the crud outta thar!
 
I like the Lehigh Valley lube.

I have known Tom DeCare for years. When he was thinking of the lube he would pull me aside at the Gunmaker's Fair and quiz me about bp fouling chemistry.

I am also the guy who figured out how Ox-Yoke messed it up once they got their hands on it.

Then helped Tom get it back to his original way once he got the business back.

If I must leave a gun loaded I'll treat the patches and let them dry.

I like the way it cleans up in the gun. Greae lubes become a chore during cleaning since the greases are usually not soluble in warm water. The residue left by the Lehigh Lube acts as a soap as soon as you wet it.

With BP. When you swab with a moist patch between shots it is best if the bore fouling dissolves into the water held in the patch. That way you are simply not pushes the crud down into the breech. The grease lubes tend to mix with the bore fouling and in a way water proofs the fouling. The Leghigh lube makes the fouling more readily soluble in the water in a damp patch.

I have tried a bunch of the "Moose milk" type lubes. none worked as good as the Lehigh lube to date.
 
Did memories of the lube wars bring a smile to your face? I still chuckle when I think back on them. Especially when they were both the repackaged Chap-Stick.
 
Mad Monk said:
Mad Professor,

If you can. Get a quantity on the amount of oil of wintergreen in the lube. When Ox-Yoke was still producing it I tried to look at that. I had found that if the container was not tightly sealed the lube would harden. So I smeared some on a piece of foil and weighed it. Left it sit exposed to the air for a week. Volatile loss was 5.5%. Only the oil of wintergreen is the volatile in the lube.
This ignores federal law on packaging. Any thing with more than 5% oil of wintergreen must be in childproof packaging. No matter the amount or end use. They claimed all food grade ingredients. You do not use oil of wintergreen in any foods. Normally it would be a tincture of oil of wintergreen going into foods as a flavoring.

In 1985 I identified mineral oil in the lube through the research group lab I was working with. They identified the mineral oil on their IR machine. They would not do the work on the base waxy material. Too much time for their niormal work load.

Using different solvents it looked to me like a low melt point crystalline wax base.
I tried turpentine and that ruled out beeswax.

They use an orange oil-soluble dye to give the appearance of beeswax. That came out with the mineral oil in an acetone extraction of the lube. The dye wanted nothing to do with the waxy base.


Ox-Yoke got into the lube business back in the early 1980's. Young, in California, came out with his Young Country 103 lube which was nothing more than repackaged Chap-Stick. Soon after that we see Ox-Yoke selling a lube. I bought a container of each at the Morgan's Rifles Shoot at Winchester in 1984. Compared the two to Chap-Stick in the lab. No question. You paid the same for 4 ounces of Young's lube as you did for 3 ounces of the Ox-Yoke lube.

Then in 1984, Ox-Yoke and Young had a parting of the ways and Ox-Yoke came out with the first version of what evolved into the 1000 shot plus lube.
Funny thing about this. Ox-Yoke was located in Suffield, CN while a large skin care product company was located just across the river in West Suffield. That skin care product company produced products based on paraffin wax or petrolatum. The oil of wintergreen was used in chest rubs for those with colds.

Then around 1989 or 1990 we see the 1000 shot plus lube come on the market. All kinds of nonsense said for it by the manufacturer. One that caught my eye was the thing about micronizing the lube. That Ox-Yoke had to go to Germany to obtain this technology.
The oils, fats and waxes book in the research library went into how the Germans had used cheap paraffin wax in skin care products by micronizing the normally macro-crystal paraffin wax. The simple addition of a tiny amount of a certain fossil wax would cause the paraffin wax to form micro crystals.

If they had been using a waxy material obtained from rendering animal fats there would be no need to micronize because they are amorphous in form.


It was Ox-Yoke who started this whole nonsense about "all-natural" and "non-petroleum". The man who ran Ox-Yoke had dealt with me a few times. I had explained black powder fouling to him.
I had written a magazine article explaining how some petroleum lubes formed asphalt films in the bore of a black powder gun and why some would not.
We had, at that time, lubes on the market that were petroleum lubricating greases. The T/C Maxi Lube at that time was the same grease they used in the shop to lube the milling machines, etc. The other was the industrial lube grease that was sold by Butler Products.
The petroleum greases that are made from lubricating oils with a metallic soap as a viscosity builder would react with the sulfur from black powder to form asphalt films in the bore. The commercial way of producing asphalt was to heave a napthenic petroleum oil into an autoclave and add sulfur. Heat it up and in a certain period of time you have road tar.
The petroleum waxes will not do that.

Even Ox-Yoke's lube would form a film in the bore eventually. If you want to look at how a lube performs in the bore you put some in a shallow metal pan and burn it down with a propane torch flame. It either produces a tar-like deposit or it does not.

Hi Mad Monk,

I'll try to address some of your questions.

Oil of wintergreen (methylsalicylate) is not all that volitile b.p. is 224 oC or 435 oF. Yes over a week some will evaporate but I wouldn't attribute the loss of 5.5 % only to this without knowledge of the other (volitile?) components.

A tincture is an alcoholic solution of a compound used for medicinal purposes, as methylsalicyalte is miscible (soluble in all proportions) with ethanol maybe some volitile loss is ethanol (b.p. 78 oC)? I'm not framilar with the laws but from what you said if a tincture was used it could account for significant evaporative loss depending on its concentration.

I'm not sure how you could identify mineral oil by infrared spectroscopy (IR) in a mixture of various hydrocarbons. IR is primarily used to identify functional groups present in a molecule. There is a portion of the IR spectrum called the "fingerprint reigion" which is UNIQUE for a particular compound, it can be used to identify compounds if a pure sample (e.g. only one component) is present. This is not applicable to mixtures. In fact we use mineral oil to examine certain solids a a dispersion (Nujol mull). The information where mineral oil absorbs is essentially useless as it cannot be attibuted to the compound being examined or the mineral oil. In fact mineral oil is itself a mixture of hydrocarbons.

"Microcrystaline"? When hydrocarbons and waxes get large enough (lower homologus series are liquids) they will crystalize if they are in a pure state. Otherwise how much or big of crystals you get will depend on the mixture. This is similar to plastics where they use a "plastizer" to keep the plastic bendable without breaking (FYI these are in drinking bottle plastics and may endocrine disrupters). In the context of polymers there is also the "glass state" , this is where things get hard but are not crystalline/brittle.

Sulfur has long been used for "Vulcanizing" rubber. That is as a cross-linking component of raw rubber to give a more stable and durable rubber. It works primarily on the unsaturated hydrocarbon chains that exists in natural rubbers. The same things may be happening in a gun barrel but with other unsaturated hydrocarbons introduced as a lube. In general for a given hydrocarbon stucture (number of carbon atoms) the more unsaturation the lower the melting point, think of Criso vs olive oil. Maybe avoid the "good fat" (for EATING, unsaturated, polyunsaturated) for ML lubes (sarurated is better?)? P.S. Short saturated fats are still liquids when long unsaturated fats solidfy, what temperature are you working with?

Mad Monk, I'm sure you know much more than I about ML shooting , I want to learn. I can help you with chemistry, maybe WE can figure out what makes the "asphalt" deposits? Maybe come up with a winner :winking: Just writing/thinking about this thread has given me a number of new ideas.......

Please PM me if you want to discuss this, I've taught qualitative organic analysis for many years.

Anyway, I don't have an axe to grind about this at all.

The way I use NL is to lubricate PRBs/conical bullets and the bore before I shoot them. When I'm done shooting I swab the bore with boiling hot soapy water, apply a bronze brush, swab again then rinse with clean hot water. I rinse the bore with dry gas (100% isopropanol), sometimes some more NL comes out (yellow patch), have not seen any leading with conicals, and then a dry patch. I then heat the barrel near my woodstove, when its hot to touch its dry and I then coat the bore with NL. No rust using this system so far unless I omit the dry gas treatment when I get a slight amount of flash rust.

I'm just learning but the key seems to be to use something "greasey " that does not induce/create fowling upon shooting then will coat the (clean) bore and not let moisture to get at it. Temperature plays a roles as some lubes get too runny when hot and others too hard when cold. Hence the use of different ratios and/or additives (mostly differnet fats/oils!).

The search for the perfect lube/protectant goes on............ :grin:
 
While much of this thread is above & beyond my long ago chemistry knowledge, I find it both informative and fascinating. Thank you guys. :bow:

However, the contrast between this discussion and primitive firearms is amusing :haha:

Reckon Dan'l Boone was up on all this? :rotf:

thanks guys
bramble
 
Mad Monk said:
Did memories of the lube wars bring a smile to your face? I still chuckle when I think back on them. Especially when they were both the repackaged Chap-Stick.

Yes, it sure did. I have a lot of good memories from those days, and a lot of things to chuckle about.

For some reason, no one in the St. Louis area carries Lehigh Valley lube, so I haven't tried it.

I am still working on what is left of a gallon of "Old Grizz" that Mike Pierce made many years ago.

That is good lube too. I think it's based on windshield wiper fluid, with some unknown additives. I was once told that silicone is one of the ingredients, but I don't know that to be true.

Whatever is in that lube will separate out over time. Agitation will mix the ingredients well enough to work again.

I have experimented with a lot of patch lubes and cleaners, and I always seem to come back to the old Grizz as a patch lube and soap and water for cleaning.

I don't know what I will do when my supply runs out. I have heard that Mike is now living in Arkansas, and I haven't seen him in years.

Maybe I will have to break down and order some Lehigh Valley over the net.

I like mutton tallow as a patch lube too. It's hard to find locally, but it's cheap when I can find it. It cleans up pretty easily too.

What's you opinion on lubes using Murpies oil soap as an ingredient. I seem to get a hard crust near the breech when using anything containing murphies.

Someone on another board poured a puddle of Murphies on a piece of metal and burned it with a propane torch. He said that it formed a hard crusty residue. This person also mentioned that the center of patches lubed with MOS, as an ingredient in patch lube, had a hard crust
on them.

I have noticed the same dark, hard crust on the center of patches lubed with MOS. I have to wonder what it does to the bore?
J.D.
 
Plink said:
The general caution against petroleum based products doesn't apply to them all apparently. For example Ballistol is petroleum based and it causes no fouling that I've noticed. In fact, it does quite the opposite. It keeps fouling from building up. I see paraffin and mineral oil in a number of homemade lubes and it doesn't seem to cause any problems. Odd.

I'm not trying to be picky about this, but I must disagree about Ballistol being a petroleum based product--at least it's not according to the info page on the website. Maybe I am not understanding it correctly??? I thought mineral oil made from coal is NOT a petroleum product... or is it???
[url] http://www.ballistol.com/about.htmgd[/url]

Regards, and shoot safely,
WV_Hillbilly
 
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I am not a real fan of Murphies oil soap. Once I got into the first Lehigh Valley lube I used it exclusively.

I worked in a PVC resin plant for 30 years. We had all sorts of oils, soaps and waxes. I tried all sorts of combinations. Nothing came close the the effectiveness of the Lehigh Valley lube. At least until Ox-Yoke got their hands on it and changed the formula. The Lehigh Valley lube is now back to its original form after Ox-Yoke left the scene.

A little lack getting back on this. Two days on the bicycles. Seeing all kinds of deer on the trail. Can I load and fire a flintlock off a mountain bike?? Hhmmmm!
 
What does the wax do exactly,other than keep the mixture hard enough to work with? Are there any properties in the wax itself that provide lubrication?, or is it just a carrier for the oil part of the mixture? Also would bees wax be appropriate as a base for making a lube ? If so would olive oil be ok?, or does it contain salt like one of the other posters mentioned? If not what oil would be appropriate? I'm sorry for all of the questions but its so interesting and you seem very educated on the subject :bow: :grin: From what I've read here!, Calling Wonderlube 1,000 all natural seems to border on false advertising to me :hmm: I know although it works ok for its intended purpose I can't say after using Wonderlube for the past 8yrs that its been spectacular! And I certainly have never been able to get more than three to five shots off without having to swab the bore, regardless of the temperature and usually by the 5th shot there is severe point of impact changes in my rifle! I'm also a little concerned that the parrafin doesn't completely get cleaned out of the barrel when the rifle is cleaned! I believe this year I may be looking for another alternative to bore lubing/preservation! Thanks for all of your information Wes
 
I'm no expert, but in my experience, the wax is little more than a carrier for the oils. In the case of beeswax, IMHO, it does lubricate to some extent, since it is much softer than parafin wax.

A good wax based lube should be about the consitency of shoe polish for winter use, and maybe a little stiffer for summer.

Beeswax is a common base in home made lubes combined with olive oil, mink oil, murphies oil soap, crisco, and other oils. All work well enough, some better than others, IMHO.

To my knowledge, the higher grade of olive oils do not contain salt. Any ingredients should be on the label.
J.D.
 
My question is just how does all of this apply to BP substitutes? It's very difficult to find real BP anywhere near where I live, so I started using substitutes some time ago. I generally clean using the hot soapy water/hot clear water flush method, then dry the barrel. But what's the best lubricant to uses after drying the barrel and what's the best thing to use to swab the barrel between shots when firing BP substitutes?

joliver
 
Green Mountain [pages 7-9] says to use oil after cleaning. The target shooters [that I know] clean between shots with windex, 2 passes each side, 1 pass dry each side. GM & TC does not agree !
 
Ballistol and breakfree CLP are two of the best preservatives I have found.

It's important to dry the bore of any oils prior to loading.

Windex, windshield wiper fluid, alcohol, or whatever liquid patch lube you are using, diluted with alcohol or water, or even a dilute mixture of soap and water will work well for swabbing.

The Mad Monk recommends Lehigh Valley lube. A dilute solution should work for swabbing as well.

In short, anything that will disolve and remove the fouling will work.
J.D.
 
I have a tube of bore butter that is getting some age on it and it is getting stiff and appears to be drying out some. Can I still use it and can I add something to it to soften it up again or does it matter?

Thanks
Jeff
 
J.D. said:
Ballistol and breakfree CLP are two of the best preservatives I have found.

It's important to dry the bore of any oils prior to loading.

Windex, windshield wiper fluid, alcohol, or whatever liquid patch lube you are using, diluted with alcohol or water, or even a dilute mixture of soap and water will work well for swabbing.

The Mad Monk recommends Lehigh Valley lube. A dilute solution should work for swabbing as well.

In short, anything that will disolve and remove the fouling will work.
J.D.

J.D.,

I have a few more questions I hope you can answer:

I understand that you are not supposed to use a petroleum-based lubricant when shooting black powder. Does this also apply when shooting BP substitutes?

What about Simple Green for swabbing the barrel between shots/series of shots?

Also, there is one type of Windex you are not supposed to use, right. Can't remember if it's the one that contains vinegar or the one with ammonia or ?????

joliver :confused:
 
I wouldn't use petroleum based prducts in my guns, with the exception of BreakFree CLP.

Breakfree was originally formulated for use in the old M16 rifles. They had a bad habit of accumulating a very hard asphalt type of fouling that would jam an M16 up in short order. BreakFree eliminates that hard fouling. It worked in the old M16, and it works as well in any gun made today.

Petroleum based oils produce a hard crusty fouling in any ML gun, no matter what type of powder is used. So, no, don't use 'em.

Other than BreakFree, I am not aware of any petroleum based oil that will not create that hard fowling when subjected to the intense heat generated by burning powder.

Simple green, diluted per instructions should work well enough for swabbing and claning, and yes it is advisable to avoid putting ammonia or an acid in your bore, even to clean.

Vinegar is only somewhere between 4%-6% acetic acid, and it should be removed in cleaning. However, I would prefer to avoid using it in the bore.

Ammonia is nasty stuff, and IMHO, it should not be used anywhere near a gun you plan to keep in good condition.
J.D.
 
WV_Hillbilly said:
Plink said:
The general caution against petroleum based products doesn't apply to them all apparently. For example Ballistol is petroleum based and it causes no fouling that I've noticed. In fact, it does quite the opposite. It keeps fouling from building up. I see paraffin and mineral oil in a number of homemade lubes and it doesn't seem to cause any problems. Odd.

I'm not trying to be picky about this, but I must disagree about Ballistol being a petroleum based product--at least it's not according to the info page on the website. Maybe I am not understanding it correctly??? I thought mineral oil made from coal is NOT a petroleum product... or is it???
[url] http://www.ballistol.com/about.htmgd[/url]

Regards, and shoot safely,
WV_Hillbilly


Coal is petroleum. It's just a solid form. So mineral oil is petroleum based. Not all petroleum products foul muzzleloaders though.
 
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J.D. said:
I wouldn't use petroleum based prducts in my guns, with the exception of BreakFree CLP.

J.D.,

Thanks so much for the info--it is really helpful. However, I do have a couple more questions:

1. How about a mixture of beeswax and olive oil as a barrel preservative? If this is effective/non-damaging, is there any kind/brand of olive oil that is best or any kind/brand that should be avoided? And, what are the percentages of beeswax and olive oil in the mix?

2. What do you recommend as a patch lube?

Thanks again for your help,

joliver
 
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