I have an old style T/C flintlock from which I get 5-maybe 10 shots per flint (good black English flints). I read somewhere, possibly on this forum but I couldn't find it, that substituting a Lyman Great Plains flintlock hammer for the T/C will give better geometry and provide longer lasting flints and better spark. Is this so?I happen to have a Lyman Great Plains flintlock that is not being used. Will this substitution help with flint life and spark? I kn ow there are "new" designed hammers for the T/C, but the ones I have seen on Flea Bay are around $36 dollars, and this does not include the jaw and cock screw, which I am told have to be purchased also as the old style hammer parts don't fit.
T/C Flint Old Style
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Stringbean
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http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/f...294343/post/1477120/hl//fromsearch/1/#1477120
This post talks about the replacement of the frizzen. I think the hammers are fine but the frizzens on the old locks that are problematic,
String
This post talks about the replacement of the frizzen. I think the hammers are fine but the frizzens on the old locks that are problematic,
String
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i have a t.c. hawkin kit gun from early 75. i replaced original cock with the new style about a year ago. only fired 25 shots , but on new english flint it sparked well on shot #25 and does not need knapping yet . before this was lucky to get 10 or 15 shots before having to replace flint . of course thats on my gun . i replaced bbl. as original one was junk 8" pattern at 50 yds. now only have to find a way to speed up ignition some.
Don Steele
45 Cal.
Ramrod...
Have you replaced the vent liner in your T/C BBL with one of the new T/C liners..??? Item # 7327. I found them at (of all places)...Dick's Sporting Goods. Install with a 1/8" Allen wrench, coned rear and about as BIG of a vent opening as you could want. I've done some T&E side-to-side with a couple of other vent liners and found them to EASILY be the best choice for my rifle.
I'm using one in my Green Mtn. BBL with a "New Style" T/C lock and folks at the range consistently comment on how fast the ignition is.
Also...FWIW: Mine seems to like a bit more 4f in the pan than some.
Have you replaced the vent liner in your T/C BBL with one of the new T/C liners..??? Item # 7327. I found them at (of all places)...Dick's Sporting Goods. Install with a 1/8" Allen wrench, coned rear and about as BIG of a vent opening as you could want. I've done some T&E side-to-side with a couple of other vent liners and found them to EASILY be the best choice for my rifle.
I'm using one in my Green Mtn. BBL with a "New Style" T/C lock and folks at the range consistently comment on how fast the ignition is.
Also...FWIW: Mine seems to like a bit more 4f in the pan than some.
This might help
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/1492971/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/1492971/
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don hepler
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To be quite honest, I've had better luck with cut flints. Perhaps it's just the length, but I also find it much easier to use a diamond file to sharpen the flint. That is the flints that TC sold to go with their rifle. The cut flints are very expensive, but reliable, and very consistent. I like the tradition of an English flint, and that's all I use in my Siler locks. I have a custom pistol, that will on fire consistently on cut flints. I was ready to give up on it, when I thought to try the cut flint, and "bingo" it worked.
You already have it. Try and then you tell us.
Hairy Clipper
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Roundball said:
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nwtradegun
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in actuality the frizen is also called the hammer, and the hammer is called the cock.
nwtradegun
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a soft frizzen is a flint eater.
in reply to don steele , yes replaced it when rmc was still in their own shop many years ago . have since moved on to a custom build by a retired school teacher close to home . may look at redrilling and tapping for a white lightning 7try that . wife bought it for me on our second xmas. together .she passed on last janurary and gun is quite special to me . even though i own much better made rifles this is my go to rifle for pa. deer .
Don Steele
45 Cal.
Isn't that the truth..!!!
My only issue with the "New Style" lock on my T/C is that the frizzen seems a bit softer than most, and as a result I don't get the life out of my flints that many report from other locks.
At the moment, that rifle is put away while I pursue other projects. When I get it out again...I am considering replacing the frizzen with one from Lyman. There was a mention here a while back of doing just that and it seemed to be a fairly easy thing to do and gave good results.
My only issue with the "New Style" lock on my T/C is that the frizzen seems a bit softer than most, and as a result I don't get the life out of my flints that many report from other locks.
At the moment, that rifle is put away while I pursue other projects. When I get it out again...I am considering replacing the frizzen with one from Lyman. There was a mention here a while back of doing just that and it seemed to be a fairly easy thing to do and gave good results.
You know that if your frizzen is too soft, you can harden it with some Kasenit or Cherry Red and either a propane or a MAPP torch to harden the face of the frizzen. The MAP torch burns a lot hotter and is the same size as a normal propane torch so it's easier to use. Sometimes you have to use 2 propane torches to get the frizzen hot enough (cherry red in color).
Another way to do it is the old-fashioned way, which is wrap it in leather (supplies the carbon) seal it in a container to keep the air out, and cook it in a fire. Here's a link to a you-tube video of someone doing just that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKKhIOx707M
Twisted_1in66:thumbsup:
Dan
Another way to do it is the old-fashioned way, which is wrap it in leather (supplies the carbon) seal it in a container to keep the air out, and cook it in a fire. Here's a link to a you-tube video of someone doing just that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKKhIOx707M
Twisted_1in66:thumbsup:
Dan
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There is no way that the little pile of kindling shown in that video will ever heat up the frizzen in the can to the 1500+°F sustained temperature needed to actually carburize and harden the frizzen.
If it hardened at all it was due to the fact that almost every frizzen on a modern flintlock is a thru hardening steel that does not need to be carburized for it to harden.
If it hardened at all it was due to the fact that almost every frizzen on a modern flintlock is a thru hardening steel that does not need to be carburized for it to harden.
