T/C hammer replacement

[KyHeadhunter]

Is there anything especially difficult about replacing the hammer on a T/C flint lock? On my lock, the hammer appears to be the only thing different from the "new" style locks (frizzen is jet black). Thinking about ordering one from Cain's.

I know T/C would probably upgrade for free if I send in the lock. But since the lock is functioning pretty well as-is, not sure I'd feel right about sending it in as a warranty claim. Sparks well, & ignition is fast. If there's a delay, I can't discern it. Only issue is it's rough on flints (destroys black English & sawn agates), but even that isn't so bad since I switched to Rich Pierce flints. Getting ~30 shots per rock with those.

Would rather order the hammer & do it myself if it's simple & doesn't require special tools. On the other hand, if it's something a novice will likely screw up, I'll let the trained folks at T/C do it.

Thanks, & Merry Christmas to all!

 

[roundball]

Is there anything especially difficult about replacing the hammer on a T/C flint lock?

No, but there is a caution.

After removing the hammer screw from the end of the tumbler shaft, some hammers have enough 'wink' in their fit that you can gently slide them off the end of the shaft, may even have to wobble your finger pressure a little while doing it.

BUT...some are very snug and the lock needs to be taken apart from the rear then the lock laid across the handles of a pair of pliers or something so the tumbler is suspended hanging down.
Then using a punch as large as possible on the end of the tumbler shaft, gently tap the tumbler down and away from the hammer.

The caution is this:
DO NOT think you can slide a screwdriver tip under the edge of the hammer and pry it off...that can result in marring the finish on the lock surface and/or snapping off the tumbler shaft altogether.

 

[KyHeadhunter]

Thanks for the tutorial roundball. Sounds like I should be able to handle it.

Prying (especially with a screwdriver) seems like a bad idea in general when working on a firearm. :shocked2: I hold this rifle in high regard, so only the proper tool for the job :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

Just to get picky -Percusion guns have hammers, Flinters have cocks. There was an article in Muzzle blasts about this and other terminology.

 

[SAJones]

Roundball covered the mechanics of cock removal well, especially the caution. Unfortunately, I don't have my old TC flintlock any longer; put it on a rifle I made for my daughter. However, I got a lot more than 30 shots out of an English black flint. It shouldn't eat up flints like that. A new cock may help, but the lock geometry needs to be looked at. The flint should just scrape the frizzen ("Steel" for the purists) in a smooth arc. My old TC flintlock did. If you can find a good blackpowder gunsmith he may be able to check the lock geometry and maybe even correct it w/ judicious heating & bending.

 

[roundball]

TC redesigned their locks back in the 90's, and the two primary redesigned componments are the hammer and frizzen...he already has the new style frizzen, and is now getting the new style hammer.

The new style hammer is much taller with a slightly different angle of attack on the jaws and this improves the geometry significantly...brings the flint into the frizzen at a perfect hight and angle now.

The new style locks average 50-75 shots on a 3/4" BEF, or up around 100 with knapping every so often...even a little more if you really want to coax one but after a couple of range sessions, I just put in a new flint...would rather shoot than knapp :grin:

 

[roundball]

By the way...you can't reuse the old jaw screw and upper jaw on the new style hammer as they don't fit/work...because of the slight difference in the angle of attack of the lower jaw, the bevel on the back of the top jaw and the jaw screw threads pinch/bind when screwed in about 1/4 of the way.

So you need to specifiy you also want the new style top jaw and screw...unless TC has changed, the new style hammers are not a complete assembly and do not include them.
And TC customer service doesn't connect the dots when you order a new hammer and ask if you also need a new jaw and jaw screw...you have to tell them.

 

[KyHeadhunter]

ohio, I remember reading that terminology, guess it will take awhile to break the habit of breech-loading terms Only been at the flintlock game for ~6 months now, but this site has really helped flatten the learning curve.

Fergetful Jones... man, I love that handle! I hope the new geometry will increase flint life. 30 doesn't seem so bad to me, but the more the better. Sometimes feels like I'm stealin' when thinking about how cheap flintlocking is compared to cartridge guns or "primer goes behind instead of to the side" muzzleloaders:

30 (for now) shots @ $1 per flint, ~ $0.04
homemade pillow tick & tallow patch ~ $0.02
.490" round ball ~ $0.12
80 grain fffg charge, + prime ~ $0.20

Total $0.38 per shot, will be even less when the round ball mold I ordered gets here :thumbsup: And all that smoke comes free with the black powder!

Thanks for the heads up on additional parts roundball.