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T/C hammer

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hobbles

50 Cal.
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
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Hi boys,,
roundball, This is what my hammer looks like,, It works just fine but it dose look like a problem in the makin,It came from the factory this way,, Should I pull it off and take a hammer to it and move it over a bit (bend it)??? Do I just unscrew it and will it come off easy with no parts left over on the floor??

hammer.jpg
 
I would wait until it starts to give you trouble, it's just a cosmetic brain teaser at this point, and just might last a lifetime the way it is. Also, there might be another fix without bending, like by placing a thin shim of some sort under the hammer, but I'm not sure. :m2c:
 
Hi boys,,
roundball, This is what my hammer looks like,, It works just fine but it dose look like a problem in the makin,It came from the factory this way,, Should I pull it off and take a hammer to it and move it over a bit (bend it)??? Do I just unscrew it and will it come off easy with no parts left over on the floor??

hammer.jpg

First, check three things:

Is the tang and tang mortise dead center in the top of the stock...not positioned slightly (1/16"-1/8") offset towards the right side of the stock to throw off the alignment of the barrel/nipple?

Next, make sure that the hammer is actually fully seated and squared up on the hammer shaft, not canted.

Next make sure the lock is fully seated and square in the mortise...not canted...ie: if the top edge or the front edge of the lock is in deeper than the bottom or the back end of the lock, it'll be 'canted in' an eyelash, throwing off the hammer alignment to the nipple.

If those are perfectly aligned and you suspect the hammer itself is actually bent out of specs, if it was me, I'd mail the lock assembly back to TC, explain the problem and get a replacement (no charge - warranty).

(If you try to bend the hammer it'll probably snap and you'll void the warranty).

If you want to remove the hammer and only send it back, you can but there's a caution.

Sometimes you can remove the hammer screw and gradually wiggle the hammer off the end of the tumbler shaft with fingers...BUT...very often they are so tight you can't do that and here comes the caution:

Do not slide the end of a screwdriver blade under the edge of the hammer and try to pry it off...at a minimum you'll mar the finish on the sideplate, and very probably snap the shaft off the tumbler.

The way to do it is:

With the lock off the rifle, relax the hammer all the way forward and disassemble all the internals:

Mainspring, bridle plate screws & plate, AND DON'T LOSE THE FLY OUT OF THE TUMBLER, remove the sear, sear return spring & plunger.

Flip the lock back over with the hammer facing up, laying the lock across a couple of pieces of wood so the tumbler is suspended up off the bench surface.

Then using a flat faced punch as big as the end of the tumble shaft, gently tap the tumbler down and away from the hammer.

Takes more time to explain it than it does to do it.

But first things first:
-ensure the tang is dead centered in the stock;
-ensure the hammer is setting down and square on the tumbler shaft/parallel to the side plate;
-then ensure the lock alignment in the mortise is sitting properly so it's square with the axis of the bore...(you can remove the lock bolt and slightly wiggle the lock in and out a few thousands to see what that does to the alighment of the hammer to the nipple).
 
Roundball.
I think I better get a book on this, part list and all. The tang does look like it is set deeper in the back then in the front, that would fix the fore and aft part, the side to side part would still be the same, (I think), arcticap might have good advice bout leavin it till I do have problems,, I can sea the first problem I WILL have is when the nipple wears down, Then the hammer will hit the base of the nipple and not the cap, Solution= carrie an extra nipple,,,,
As for sendin it back,, maybe I will, but it is my weapon now and I should learn how to fix it, Know a good book I should get ??
 
roundball
Is the tang and tang mortise dead center in the top of the stock...not positioned slightly (1/16"-1/8") offset towards the right side of the stock to throw off the alignment of the barrel/nipple?

ahhh, the side to side fix,,, I got to learn to read better,, thanks all,
 
I recently had a problem with a used Renegade trigger/lock. The TC customer service lady understood it could have been either, so she told me to just send in the complete stock which I did. I think it cost about $6.00 (U.S. Mail). They rebuilt the lock in a few weeks and paid for return shipping. No fuss, no muss. I'm sorry I failed to mention the possibility of a warranty issue. I wonder if it slipped by inspection like that originally, or if it's a problem that developed. I would let the experts handle it considering the low cost to ship.
 
hobbles. Maybe its just me or the angle in your picture but it looks like the lock is set deep in the mortice. The picture looks like wood standing proud at the back of the lock. If so shim the mortice, if not I would follow Roundballs advise and let the experts correct the problem.
Fox :thumbsup:
 
silverfox
Mornin,, is there a web site where I can find out what parts of my weapon is called ??
mortice = ?
 
I had the same observation as Silverfox. Looks like your lockplate is a little too deep at the rear of its mortice. Try shimming that out a little, and see if that helps. I'm sure T/C would fix it under warranty, if you want to wait for it.
 
silverfox
Mornin,, is there a web site where I can find out what parts of my weapon is called ??
mortice = ?

I've got a softcopy image of a TC Hawken parts diagram at home...will send it to you tonight
 
SCATTERSHOT
The lock plate in the Mortice looks 0k here, must just be the angel I took the picture,,, but,,, the rear of the tang looks deeper THEN THE FRONT, that would throw off the hammer like it is,,, I got to think on this one before I start "FIXIN" IT,,
 
Well, to fix the tang, which will fix the hammer I can,
1. shim the rear of the tang up,
or
2. move the front of the tang down,,, One is shimmin and the other is permanent ,,
Heck,, that was easy, guess I better have a beer,, I need shim stock,,,,
 
Well, to fix the tang, which will fix the hammer I can,
1. shim the rear of the tang up,
or
2. move the front of the tang down,,, One is shimmin and the other is permanent ,,
Heck,, that was easy, guess I better have a beer,, I need shim stock,,,,

Hobbles, shimming the tang up higher won't correct the "right to left" misalignment of the hammer to the nipple.
The hammer is too far in to the left (or the nipple is too far out to the right)
 
roundball
Hobbles, shimming the tang up higher won't correct the "right to left"

Yes sir I know, but it will take care of the fore and aft problem,, I haven't open the beer yet,,, still thinkin,,
 
roundball
I just look at the hammer real REAL close and the fore and art ain't the problem, It has to be moved to the right,,
I knew the other way would be to easy,,
 
flaming canvas
Looks to me like it should work ok as it is. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

WHAT??!!
Just cause it works you want me to leave it alone ?? ME ?? ahh mannn,, where's the fun in that ? sides,, I can't learn nothin that way,
but you do have a good point,
 
If you take hold ot the hammer while it is cocked, can you move it side to side any? I've had some that you could. The tumbler shaft(that is the piece that the hammer fits over) may be worn. Or the square hole in the hammer may be worn. Check for movement of the hammer and see if you have any. If so, it may need a trip to T/C for replacement.
 

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