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T/c Hawken Hammer Throw?

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Joined
Jul 15, 2007
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Does anyone know what the length of the hammer throw is on a T/C Hawken percusson lock? If not, can some one explain the proper way to measure hammer throw length?? Thanks, RamblinMan
 
I for one am not sure I understand the question.
The lock internals are designed to allow for the hammer to be pulled back and the sear to engage at two fixed points on the tumbler...the half cock notch, and the full cock notch.

Then when the trigger is pulled, the sear is moved out of the full cock tumbler notch and the hammer is driven forward by the cocked mainspring power until it comes to a crash-stop on top of the cap seated on top of the nipple.

These dynamics are a direct result of their design relationships and there are no normal adjustments to be made. Are you having some problem that you might be able to explain further?
 
I think he's looking for the distance from the face of the hammer to the nipple seat at full cock.Somebody messed with mine and its short, half cock barely clears the nipple.
Ryan
 
bucketthompson said:
I think he's looking for the distance from the face of the hammer to the nipple seat at full cock.Somebody messed with mine and its short, half cock barely clears the nipple.
Ryan
Oh.....every TC caplock I've ever owned was that way...never understood it...you have to go to full cock just to cap the rifle
:shake:
 
Its always been my understanding that Warren Center designed the half cock notch so that it would be LOW enough to keep a cap from coming off the nipple and falling off altogether. He expected you to cap the nipple with the hammer at full cock, then lower the hammer to the half cock notch. Mr. Center was concerned about accidents, as well as complaints of his customers that the caps would not stay on the nipples during a hunt. Since he did not manufacture Percussion caps, he could not control the sizing of them. So, instead, he made the half cock notch low enough that you cannot put the cap on the nipple when the hammer is on half cock. But, on the other hand, the skirt prevents the cap from falling completely off the nipple should it come loose.
 
"...expected you to cap the nipple with the hammer at full cock, then lower the hammer to the half cock notch...."
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I'm not disagreeing with this but I want to tell anyone who has a double set trigger on their gun, do not do this.

A lock with a fly in it like almost all guns with a double set trigger must always be lowered from the full cock position to a place below where the half cock notch will engage.
Then, raise the hammer back up until you hear the sear engage the half cock notch.

The fly in the lock will prevent the lock from going from full cock directly to half-cock.
The problem is that if the hammer is lowered slowly the sear can catch on the fly rather than jumping over it.
It can sit there until something bumps the gun.
That can cause the sear to jump over the fly (like it is supposed to do) and fire the cap.

Sorry to rant but this is a real safety issue that some folks are not aware of.
 
The throw of the hammer is the measurement from the center of the tumbler axle to the center of the recess in the hammer nose.

God bless
 
I don't have but two T/C's and the Hawken I can't cap at half but the White Mountain Carbine I can. Maybe it's because one is a set trigger and the other isn't. I don't know I just deal with it.
Ryan
 
ANY hammer gun I own I bring the the hammer below halfcocked before bringing it back up to halfcocked to make sure it is engaged. Hearing that "click" is a feeling of safety.

Just a thought.
 
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