I was going to go from pictures for locating sights and rail but would appreciate any help. If someone has one of these and would be able to give me measurements that would be great. Thanks, John.
T/C Hawken help wanted
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I was going to go from pictures for locating sights and rail but would appreciate any help. If someone has one of these and would be able to give me measurements that would be great. Thanks, John.
That is an aftermarket barrel that someone bought for the stock and never put together, even the early TC kits in the white had all the components attached to the barrel. I shudder think of all you will have to do to get the barrel in the stock, you have to time the breech plug, drill and tap for the rear sight and under rib and cut the dovetail for the front sight and wedge pin clevis. You will need a very small bottoming tap for the sight and rib holes.
Here you go; from the factory TC Hawken barrel in my hands right now.
The rear sight is centered 7 1/2" from the back of the barrel with breech plug installed.
The center of the wedge pin dovetail is 8 1/8" from the back of the barrel.
The center of the front sight dovetail is 1" from the front of the barrel
Your under rib and thimble holes are already drilled, you can use these to locate the screw holes for the under rib. It goes in even with front of the barrel.
You may need a TC breech plug wrench to tighten the breech plug, on an aftermarket barrel you may be able to time it (line up the flats) without the gazillion pounds of torque TC put on their factor breech plugs. The plug wrenches come in two sizes; one for 15/16" barrels and a different one for 1" barrels.
Plug wrench, there is a guy making aftermarket ones for about $20, he is usually on eBay but I didn't see his listed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953004583...MdtbyDiSLaGrLmcJLvX0ETUA==|tkp:Bk9SR9Dh2oPsYA
Another thing; all TC factory guns had a bad wood to brass fit except for the patch box.
Here you go; from the factory TC Hawken barrel in my hands right now.
The rear sight is centered 7 1/2" from the back of the barrel with breech plug installed.
The center of the wedge pin dovetail is 8 1/8" from the back of the barrel.
The center of the front sight dovetail is 1" from the front of the barrel
Your under rib and thimble holes are already drilled, you can use these to locate the screw holes for the under rib. It goes in even with front of the barrel.
You may need a TC breech plug wrench to tighten the breech plug, on an aftermarket barrel you may be able to time it (line up the flats) without the gazillion pounds of torque TC put on their factor breech plugs. The plug wrenches come in two sizes; one for 15/16" barrels and a different one for 1" barrels.
Plug wrench, there is a guy making aftermarket ones for about $20, he is usually on eBay but I didn't see his listed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953004583...MdtbyDiSLaGrLmcJLvX0ETUA==|tkp:Bk9SR9Dh2oPsYA
Another thing; all TC factory guns had a bad wood to brass fit except for the patch box.
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You didn't say what caliber the barrel is; If it is 15/16" for a .50 or .45 it will need a stock for a 15/16" barrel, it is a .54 it will be a 1" barrel and need a 1"-barrel channel in the stock. It would be a good idea to make sure the barrel fits the stock before you start. You might check the rate of twist in the barrel, all TCs except the PA hunter were 1-48, the barrel you have may be different, if it is fast like 1-26 it is for bullets, if it is 1-66 it is for patched round balls.
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Re-read and save what Eric said in his post. You have the makings for a very nice rifle. But, some of the steps do require some experience. Fitting the breech plug requires not only experience but some good expertise. Do be sure to consider having this done by someone qualified. Doing it wrong can cause a whole host of problems, including safety. Personally, I would refinish the wood to make it look more like a real rifle than a factory product. Keep us informed of your progress.
It would be easier and more cost-effective for you to buy a complete barrel on eBay, also removing and installing breech plugs on T/C barrels is a bear, good luck which ever way you decide to go
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15/16 or 1 inch between flats must be verified 1st ,Then pick up phone and talk to Rice barrels and be prepared to spend some money ! He makes a drop in barrel with sights and every thing needed/Ed
I also agree with @Eric Krewson. That is a Thompson Center Kit that has an aftermarket barrel. Read, heed and save Eric's instructions. The machine work is not for the amateur. Find a gunsmith that is knowedgable about work on muzzleloading firearms.
Is that a Rice barrel?
The OP's son posted about these parts last week and contacted Rice, and was told not one of their barrels. The seller said the "R" was for right side -I'd guess to properly account for runout. However, it is my understanding that generally the bottom flat is marked to manage runout...it's clearer what is the barrel's vertical and the mark is not visible on a finished gun.
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no TC breech plug wrench needed for that one. soft vice jaws and a big crescent wrench applied to the hook from the bottom get it done.
there are many threads on cutting slots for the tenons, sights etc.
there are many threads on cutting slots for the tenons, sights etc.
I cut dovetails in a x y vice on drill press then finish under cut with triangle file smoothed on one side.
ffg has good point if you don't have the stuff or experience if one with really good bore is available or have a machinist do it if less expensive.
ffg has good point if you don't have the stuff or experience if one with really good bore is available or have a machinist do it if less expensive.
I don't know if these are in stock, they appear to be, I bought one a couple of years ago from these folk.
https://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?ProductID=1059&do=detail&Cat2Option=yes
https://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?ProductID=1059&do=detail&Cat2Option=yes
TerryK
40 Cal.
As was said, I would get a finished barrel on ebay, and blast away.
I could be wrong and I know Bubba 50 or Eric would know but I dont think TC made any Hawken Flintlocks in 54 caliber. Im thinking this stock is 15/16 and a 50 caliber barrel. I agree with the find a TC barrel on ebay and blast away. Although on further close in View the jag is saying 54 to 56 caliber.
Thanks for all the replies. The bore is .50 cal and about 1-40. I have the files for cutting the dovetails and taps although
Thanks Eric, that is exactly what I was needing.
Sorry for that last message I started and forgot where I was. I have done a fair amount of metal work including opening up and deepening dovetails. The breech plug feels as though it will torque in for the flats to align but I haven't put it in the vise yet. The barrel fits in the channel perfectly. The tang needs to go back about 3/32" but it hasn't been screwed in yet which is a plus. The only thing that appears off is the touch hole will be off center towards the hammer but still in the pan. Thanks again for the help.
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One nice thing is the barrel can be breeched on all 8 flat locations instead of one of 8 since it's new and the sights have not been installed. If you don't have a local gunsmith who can install the brech plug and cut the front sight dovetail, you can always contact several other gunsmiths who could do the work by mail order. Check into having it finished, the Fee to finish it up may be cheaper than locating a used barrel.
My bad! Hadn't had the second cup of coffee.
I looked through the eBay barrels none were flint, all almost all of them had bores listed as some rust which went from pitted to way beyond hope that looked like sewer pipes and some listed with a shiny bore that had obvious pitting. Most of the barrels didn't have sights, underlugs or wedge clevis with them. One guy had a bunch of new old stock GM drop in barrels in ,32, .40 and .54, he wanted $600 for each of them. The Gun Works listed theirs at $285, the one I bought was a little over $300 shipped.
True, but only after checking for any runout between the bore and the barrel’s exterior. Usually not a concern with the newer CNC produced barrels, but a real PIA if not taken into account with older barrels such as this one appears to be.
