T/C Hawken woes

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I too replaced my tc frizzen with a lyman.
I also reharden my own frizzens using MAP gas and CherryRed case hardening.
 
I built my TC Hawken from a kit in the late 80's (I think). Used to have issues with busting flints and wearing frizzens as others did. Thinking it was in the later 90"s or so TC redesigned their hammers and frizzens and offered to replace earlier lock parts if you sent your old lock in. I sent mine in and they sent me a completely new lock assy at no charge. After several years of fairly heavy use, frizzen still looks good and sparks great. If you can find a later TC lock they are as good as L&R in my book.
Also, I have been using RMC liners for years, very happy. One thing with them, I usually pull the liner when cleaning and after so many times the shallow hex socket gets rounded so wrench slips. I take #15 torx bit and drive it into the hex, bites much better and just snug liner does not need to be very tight.
 
I built my TC Hawken from a kit in the late 80's (I think). Used to have issues with busting flints and wearing frizzens as others did. Thinking it was in the later 90"s or so TC redesigned their hammers and frizzens and offered to replace earlier lock parts if you sent your old lock in. I sent mine in and they sent me a completely new lock assy at no charge. After several years of fairly heavy use, frizzen still looks good and sparks great. If you can find a later TC lock they are as good as L&R in my book.
Also, I have been using RMC liners for years, very happy. One thing with them, I usually pull the liner when cleaning and after so many times the shallow hex socket gets rounded so wrench slips. I take #15 torx bit and drive it into the hex, bites much better and just snug liner does not need to be very tight.
I have had similar results. Funny thing us , the TC flintlock kit was a wee
Bit intimidating in the early’70”s , and because of the price, I assumed it was a piece of junk. I have hunted this big heavy ole lug around the wilds of Pennsylvania for more than 47 seasons. It is probably my most reliable and trusted tool for BP! I have harvested over 30 some Whitetail with it. I have my baby a Jacob Sell inspired build by George Kieffer that is absolutely the piece de resistance of flintlocks. Nothing compares to the absolute quality and beauty of his work( God rest his soul) ! I also have a Tennessee Original Jack Garner, before the “other guy “ took over, which is my range rifle and is the finest fitting weapon to fire I have ever owned …. Just saying 🦮
 
This was my own fault. I got a tc hawken flinter a few weeks ago and it appeared in great shape. Bore was clean and shiny but I gave it a thorough swabbing anyway. Today I decided to take it out and sight it in. It is to serve as a back up rifle to my .58 flinter for the PA primitive season.
Well the first attempt was a flash in the pan. OK I thought. Maybe some oil in the vent hole. Reprimed the pan and boom. Second shot a good deal of delay and boom again. (Before you say anything I know not to overfill the pan). After that it was hit or miss. No flash, flash in the pan, delayed firing. Some of this could have been the high humidity even tho I was wiping frizzen and flint after every shot.
Any how...I was able to get it shooting close and figured I had enough frustration for one day. When I got home I checked for spark in a dark room and the English flint didn't produce many.
I cleaned up the rifle and replaced the well worn frizzen with a new one. Sparking good now. Next was the vent liner. It was an original T/C. That went in the trash and a new RMC liner installed.
Hopefully things will go smoother next outing.
The Patent Breech is likely the source of your problems.
They can be reliable, but you have to constantly work at it.
I swore off of them decades ago. They add unnecessary complexity to what should be a pretty straightforward barrel/breech design.
 

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