T/C Maxi Balls and Elk

[Whiteoak15]

My .54 Maxi-balls come out at 410 grains and my Maxi-Hunters come out at 455 grains. Neither one shows any propensity for stopping unless you line up a LOT of one gallon milk jugs of water. Penetration just isn't a question with either so I go with the Maxi-Hunter for the expansion.

 

[longcruise]

There is a way to have the best of both worlds.

Use a bullet with a wide meplat (flying trash can if you will). Cast with a wheel weight nose and pure lead body then heat treat harden to get the nose up to around 20 BHN.

This is a proven penetrator and will have the benefits of a pure lead bullet for obturation and a flat meplat for a strong wound channel that won't over expand and lose penetration.

 

[HighUintas]

There is a way to have the best of both worlds.

Use a bullet with a wide meplat (flying trash can if you will). Cast with a wheel weight nose and pure lead body then heat treat harden to get the nose up to around 20 BHN.

This is a proven penetrator and will have the benefits of a pure lead bullet for obturation and a flat meplat for a strong wound channel that won't over expand and lose penetration.

How does one cast a bullet like that?

 

[longcruise]

How does one cast a bullet like that?

There are two methods that I'm familiar with.

One involves pouring a specific quantity of WW Into the mold to create the nose only and then insert the pre poured nose into the mold and pour the pure lead on top.

The other is to do a two pot double pour. First the ww and then immediately add the pure lead. In either case you need to use a ladle that holds the amount of ww that you want.

If you want a harder nose than just as poured, you can put the final product I. The oven at 450 deg for an hour and then dump quickly into cold water. The nose will be hardened and the pure lead unaffected.

 

[HighUintas]

There are two methods that I'm familiar with.

One involves pouring a specific quantity of WW Into the mold to create the nose only and then insert the pre poured nose into the mold and pour the pure lead on top.

The other is to do a two pot double pour. First the ww and then immediately add the pure lead. In either case you need to use a ladle that holds the amount of ww that you want.

If you want a harder nose than just as poured, you can put the final product I. The oven at 450 deg for an hour and then dump quickly into cold water. The nose will be hardened and the pure lead unaffected.

Thanks. I was thinking of whether or not the molten nose lead would bond to a solidified and cooled body or if you would have to do a quick double pot pour.

 

[64Springer]

I had very bad results trying to combine a soft base with a hard nose.

Even when running two pots and working quickly.

The nose separation rate was unacceptable.

 

[Rudyard]

I have a TC Maxi mould in 50 cal found it markedly improuves accuracy in my 50 cals if I only shoot at 55 yards in my tests . What it might do on game ? . I cant emagine it being a poor result . Not that I've ever had or wanted their rifles but I do like their moulds .
Rudyard

 

[longcruise]

I had very bad results trying to combine a soft base with a hard nose.

Even when running two pots and working quickly.

The nose separation rate was unacceptable.

You gotta run very hot

 

[64Springer]

775

The nose solidifies before the ladle of soft lead can be grabbed and poured.

 

[azmntman]

"Not one critter has went more than a few steps"

If one can shoot

 

[coupe]

Have to add wads are great for maxi balls but the sacrificial patch is best for round ball shooting

 

[BS]

I want to hear about the testing results! Thanks!

Shot them with Power Coating and lube. Two different guns.
Accuracy was nothing that I would hunt with!

 

[BS]

View attachment 252159

I took the TC mold and made the top ring larger and thicker, hoping for better bite on the rifling.

Also opened the second groove up, and made the body larger.

I have not tested these yet, but also made some that are a bit harder. [Red in color]

Blue are soft , red are harder.

Eastwood power paints, shake and bake.

Sized to fit bore, painted and sized again.

Shot them with Power Coating and lube. Two different guns.
Accuracy was nothing that I would hunt with!

 

[poinlaw]

For what its worth, I shot a smallish bull at 40 yards this year with a pure lead .54 Maxi ball over 90 gr. of P-RS. Unfortunately, I hit him high enough to miss the heart and aorta, so just double lung'ed him. The bullet broke the offside shoulder and lodged just under the skin. He didn't run, just turned to face me and stood there wheezing for about 10 minutes. No blood showing at all, except for his nose and mouth. Fortunately, he turned sideways again and I put another into the heart and that dropped him. I felt terrible about the high miss. As one poster said above, "location, location, location!" I was lucky he couldn't run, because that high lung shot wouldn't have slowed him down for quite a ways. I promised myself to do better next time. Also, I may go to a PRB, because I dont contemplate shooting beyond 100 yds. and really dont need the extra penetration. Here are pictures of the Maxi Ball I recovered. The shoulder smashed one side of the bullet fairly well, but you can still see the flat pointed nose intact on the other side.

 

[Leatherbark]

The maxi ball molds are calibrated for pure lead. Been there done that. Any tin/antimony will increase the diameter of the bullet enough to where the 2 lower bands which are supposed to slip into the barrel wont even start without a hammer. Then they won't obturate worth a doodly squat upon firing. Been there and done that 35 years ago. Pure lead. 40-1 would probably work.

 

[64Springer]

Any tin and the bullet won't work and a 40:1 bullet which has tin in it can't operate in the same universe.

Tin is 2 BHN above pure lead and will not harden a mix.

That's why it's OK to use tin in 10:1, 20:1, 30:1 and 40:1 mixes.

 

[deerstalkert]

Any tin and the bullet won't work and a 40:1 bullet which has tin in it can't operate in the same universe.

Tin is 2 BHN above pure lead and will not harden a mix.

That's why it's OK to use tin in 10:1, 20:1, 30:1 and 40:1 mixes.

what he says! it is antimony and some other metals that harden a lead alloy. Tin increases the flowability. add enough tin and you can shoot pewter balls!

 

[azmntman]

So I can melt down the nose plate on the Mountain and add some tin and keep a huntin?

 

[Idaho Ron]

I know for a fact what works in that barrel.
The Lee 500S&W bullet paper patched sized to .501 with a .62 over powder wad. 64.5 actual grains of pyrodex P. Keep the speed at 1300 to 1375.
I harden mine to between 6&7 BHN. I use reclaimed lead shot to harden but 40-1 will work fine.
I've killed several elk with this bullet. In smaller yearlings this bullet will blow through at any angle. On large elk past 60 yards and under 150 yards expect up to 3 foot of penetration in elk.
The bull below was killed at 248 yards. Because of the proximity of private land I held for a high shoulder/spine shot. Dropped him in his tracks. The bullet started out at 458 grains. It still weighs 454 grains after smashing the shoulder and spine.
Like I said I've taken several elk with the Lee 500S&W bullet paper patched. It's a fantastic game bullet.
If the OP doesn't want to use this bullet. I would go with No Excuse bullets.