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T/C set trigger adjustment

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thumbs

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Long story but I put a .50 T/C Hawkin percussion together a couple of years ago I bought from a buddy that had it under his bed as a kit for 20 years. Anyway

I want to take it out for deer this season. I am using it for my second deer. Is there an adjustment for the set trigger? Not the trigger. The set trigger is real stiff. I don't know if it's supposed to be that stiff or not. Once set the trigger is fine. Also is there a trick to take out the click when you set it? On my other rifles I pull the trigger cock the rifle and reliese the trigger. This takes the click out of the thing so as not to allert the deer. Is there a way to take the click out of the set trigger?\

thanks
 
The only way to soften up or lighten up the amount of pull required for the set trigger is to weaken the spring that drives it. If this is carried too far, there won't be enough spring energy to propel the trigger blade into the sear arm and release the sear reliably.

If you want to set the set trigger without it making any noise, it is a two hand operation. I recommend that you do it with the hammer at half cock because there is a chance that the front trigger may not fully engage the rear set trigger at first. If that happened and the rear set trigger was released, it would fire the gun.

To set the rear trigger silently, using your left hand finger, pull the front trigger back and hold it back. Now, using your right hand, pull the rear set trigger back. With it in this position, release the front trigger. Then release the set trigger. This should catch the rear trigger in the set position but just to make sure, pull the rear set trigger one more time to make sure the front trigger is fully engaged.

I would suggest that you try this 20 or 30 times to get the feel of it and while your doing this make sure the hammer is in the fired (down) position so releasing the set trigger won't break off the sear or half cock notch.
 
Zonie

Yep that's it thanks. On my other rifles I can hunt without the set trigger. This one is way to heavy a pull.

Thanks
 
thumbs said:
Zonie

Yep that's it thanks. On my other rifles I can hunt without the set trigger. This one is way to heavy a pull.

Thanks

Also...it's not uncommon to find a TC Hawken, Renegade, etc, where the wood has not been properly relieved in the area where the sear bar travels, causing the sear to rub on wood and making the trigger feel too heavy...especially if an older stock has had years to dry out further and shrink enough to start having these problems...or a new style sear installed which has a bar that is an eyelash longer than the originals and goes deeper into the hole, rubbing the back wall...or a new lock is installed altogether with the same results.

But in either case, when the lock is removed you’ll see the round hole that’s drilled into the stock that the sear bar slides down into when the lock is installed...sometimes these holes are not drilled quite deep enough, or large enough in diameter...and the end of the sear bar can drag against the back wall of wood, and/or as the sear bar raises up, it can just barely contact the side of the hole if it's too small in diameter.

Lastly, the tip of the front trigger itself can contact wood as it nears the very top of it’s upward travel making the front trigger seem heavy as it’s pushing against wood at the very moment it’s trying to push the sear bar.

It’s easy to use a slightly larger diameter drill bit to enlarge the hole that the sear bar slides into, and let the tip of the bit barely bottom out against the back wall of wood to relieve a tiny surface amount to ensure the end of the sear bar does not contact wood...or, just enlarge the diameter of the hole, then use a grinder on the end of the sear bar to shorten it 1/8” as there’s plenty of excess length on TC’s sear bars.

Then looking in from the trigger mortise, you can also get up in there to gently relieve the wood in the area of the front trigger travel to ensure it is not contacting any wood at the top of it’s travel...(I use a dremel tool)...takes longer to explain this than it does to do[url] it...in[/url] addition to the sear & tumbler polishing, I’ve improved a couple of very heavy front triggers on TC Hawkens this way by just giving them free travel.

But after having said all that, I’ve become a dedicated set trigger user anyway...deer / squirrel hunting gives plenty of time to slip off a glove and use the set triggers which for me, are always more accurate than a front trigger no matter how smooth I might get them.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
roundball

Thanks for the info. Yeah it seems real heavy.
I just measured it with my Lyman trigger pull gauge. This thing is about the heaviest trigger I have ever had. Trigger pull it 8.7 lbs!!! Now with the set trigger it's 1.2 lbs. There must be something in there like you said. I'll have to check it out and see what the problem is. This is way to heavy even by todays standards.

Is there a way to get instant email notification as to a post your subscribed to? I can't seem to find how to enable it if there is one.
 
thumbs said:
roundball

Thanks for the info. Yeah it seems real heavy.
I just measured it with my Lyman trigger pull gauge. This thing is about the heaviest trigger I have ever had. Trigger pull it 8.7 lbs!!! Now with the set trigger it's 1.2 lbs. There must be something in there like you said. I'll have to check it out and see what the problem is. This is way to heavy even by todays standards.

Is there a way to get instant email notification as to a post your subscribed to? I can't seem to find how to enable it if there is one.
I think so...up in the profile area should be a series of options you can set to yes or no and I think that's one of them
 
Mornin thumbs
I cleaned my mortise one time and I tighten the screw that holds the spring, Put it together and found that my trigger was way too hard. I took 1/2 turn off that screw and it was back to normal. I used blue loc tight on it and all's 0k now. Just a thought
 
I think he's talking about the front trigger being too heavy when used by itself...not when being used after the set trigger & spring have been cocked
 
hmmm, I thought he was talkin bout the set trigger bein to stiff. I know when I set that screw to tight, it was a bear to use.. My bad.... :v
 
hey your both right. Without the set trigger that pull on the trigger is over 8lbs. The set trigger is real heavy also. Once the set trigger is set it's a nice pull on the trigger. I hope you underestand what I am saying.
 
Setting the set trigger should be heavy because you're cocking a big spring.

Then the front trigger becomes a hair trigger after the set trigger has been set (cocked)...all the front trigger is doing then is releasing the cocked set trigger and the set trigger is what flies up and trips the sear, not the front trigger.
 
hobbles

I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens. The trigger is over 8 pound pull. The set trigger is well over that. It actually hurts my finger to try to set it.
 
thumbs said:
The set trigger is well over that. It actually hurts my finger to try to set it.
The set trigger "set spring weight" has nothing to do with the manual operation of the front trigger...totally independent of each other
 

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