Tang Screw

[Sidney Smith]

I don't agree with drilling a 1/16th pilot hole first for the tang. If it's a maple stock, they are hard, and a thin little 16th drill bit will assuredly walk of target. I've always used the sized drill bit for the tang(read hole before tapping threads in trigger plate). The larger drill bit tends to walk off target much less than drilling a small pilot hole first. I'm telling you, you are asking for trouble if you pilot hole the tang first. Draw the angled line from your tang location, down the side of the stock toward the front of the trigger plate, remembering to keep this line as close to 90 degrees as you can. Drill slowly, and have another set of eyes watching so you drill the hole matching your drawn line. Side to side you watch yourself. I've done it this way for all my builds and have never had a tang hole wander off.

 

[SDSmlf]

What type of head do you use on the 10/32 screws.

I typically use oval head screws on tangs, but would use a different style if it suited the gun or particular application.

 

[MattU]

I just finished the lock inlet.

View attachment 116122
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So, the top one is the one I have.... Lots of great info in this post for me! So, I will work on getting one like the one on the bottom of this photo! I have not inlet the triggers yet.

 

[SDSmlf]

I just finished the lock inlet.
View attachment 116122
So, the top one is the one I have.... Lots of great info in this post for me! So, I will work on getting one like the one on the bottom of this photo! I have not inlet the triggers yet.

The reason I posted the photographs of the triggers was to show the trigger plate and the potential room to tap a hole for your tang screw(s). The exact trigger in my photograph may not work in your application. The trigger needs to mate up well with your lock and stock geometry. Have you sketched up a plan like @Phil Coffins suggested? And as previously suggested by more than one, could you post some photographs of what you have? Good chance someone here could offer some real and specific assistance if there was more information to go on, but that is up to you.

 

[MattU]

The reason I posted the photographs of the triggers was to show the trigger plate and the potential room to tap a hole for your tang screw(s). The exact trigger in my photograph may not work in your application. The trigger needs to mate up well with your lock and stock geometry. Have you sketched up a plan like @Phil Coffins suggested? And as previously suggested by more than one, could you post some photographs of what you have? Good chance someone here could offer some real and specific assistance if there was more information to go on, but that is up to you.

So, as it is my first build, I had it all drawn out, but no detail at the trigger/lock connection as I figured that the trigger would not work well. My pattern was from an old original half-stock, and it was not super well drawn, but good enough. My dad built a couple full stock 50-60 years ago, and he is all I have had for advice up until this point.... The fact you all figured out my problem exactly is crazy! Wow!

 

[COTNTOP]

I bought a tool with a spring loaded drillbit made to center holes for door hinges. Worked great to keep hole lined up with the tang.

 

[Col. Batguano]

The small 1/16" pilot hole is for the metal tang, not the wood. You are quite correct in that wood is of varying consistencies. The main purpose of it is to locate the hole with a minimum of risk of drill bit walking.

Once the tang hole is drilled, the tang is used as the jig to drill the wood hole, at least until it gets down a little bit. After that you don't need it.

While some fellas are confident enough in their skills to drill from tang to trigger plate in one operation, I'm not. I go down a little way from the top, and then up a way from the bottom (the trigger plate isn't drilled yet). Once the holes meet (they're usually off by a little bit) then I run the drill all the way through from the top. If there is a lot of "offness" in the meeting place (meaning extra wood got hogged out that shouldn't have) then I'll goop in some acriglass and let it set up. That will fill the hole, but be softer than the wood. Then I'll run my bit down through it to re-bore the hole. The bit will naturally seek the softest material. After it's through, THEN I'll re-install the trigger plate, clamp it in place, drill it through (from the top), and run my tap through it to thread it.

 

[geb324]

Go Slow!

 

[SDSmlf]

So, as it is my first build, I had it all drawn out, but no detail at the trigger/lock connection as I figured that the trigger would not work well. My pattern was from an old original half-stock, and it was not super well drawn, but good enough. My dad built a couple full stock 50-60 years ago, and he is all I have had for advice up until this point.... The fact you all figured out my problem exactly is crazy! Wow!

You definitely have an older TC trigger that gives no real option to tap and drill for any tang screw. You may want to look at the L&R Hawken triggers TOW has.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/917/1/TR-LR-1300Once you get the trigger lined up correctly with your lock’s sear bar, you can trim the trigger plate to a length that would allow you to drill and tap for two tang screws with the length of the tang that you have.

Others may come along with other options. Personally, I have not used L&R triggers before and can’t comment on how they perform.

 

[MattU]

I ordered and received a proper set of triggers and the project is now complete! Thanks for all the help!

Half stock 45 percussion. Patterned off an old original in the backwoods of Idaho. I used ebony for the forend, wood under-rib and am still looking for appropriate lock bolt plate to inlet on the left side.

 

[Vaino]

I've never had this problem but w/ the exception of 2 set triggers, single triggers have always been used. Forgot the brand of set triggers I used, but lucked out in that these triggers didn't pose the problem that's mentioned......Fred

 

[Eric Krewson]

Nice looking gun, I would shim that gap at the back of the barrel if that is what it is, the barrel may move back a little when you shoot the gun in. Barrel movement backward can cause bad things to happen as I just found out.

I just finished rebuilding a TC stock that the previous owner must have shot monster powder loads with maxi balls. The barrel had moved back a little, bent the lock bolt and caused a crack that ran from the lock bolt hole to the lock sear hole but not to the outside of the stock.

I fixed everything to be twice as strong as new with hickory dowels and threaded brass bushing for the tang new tang bolts and a hickory dowel where the tang bolt went through. I replaced the wood where the crack ran from the lock bolt to the sear hole.

 

[colimr]

Go to Deer Creek search CVA trigger old style or new style both have the front trigger spring offset to allow a threaded tang bolt $ 55.00 approx shipped old style is thinner than new style either would work depending on trigger pocket depth . .Most Traditions that are double set also use the off set spring but are back ordered 2+ months now I own both.Here is the Traditions. The CVA is similar only the spring is beefier and wrapped around the tang hole. TC trigger spring runs center and unless you reposition and offset the spring you can't drill and thread a hole. EBAY Currently have the style trigger assembly with

$75.00 for a complete used one. I believe there is 1 trigger last I looked 5/21/2022

 

[Tn poor boy]

Yeah is does. It will work. You need to draw everything on the side of the stock in minute detail before you cut anything. I normally glue some quality paper to the side of the wood for ease of drawing and erasing. Once you have all the parts laid out on the paper you can cut wood with no guessing.

This guy goes through the process:

I called him he called me back great guy