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tap and die for an amateur

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rcbelding

36 Cal.
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I'm adding sling swivels to a yaeger rifle I made a while back. My last class in metal working was a general shop class 30+ years ago where I got a "C" grade and I have no special equipment. Threading a 6-40 screw has been a disaster, each one tilted. There's a good gunsmith down the road, but I'd like to do it myself, any suggestions?

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Flintlock, round ball and black powder - Life is sweet.

Notice on powder container -"Be certain no embers are smoldering in the barrel before loading", so I ALWAYS blow down the barrel after firing. Its easier than wet swabbing each time.
 
Why not buy some #6-32 screws...a very common thread?.... Unless something is already tapped #6-40?. Also, are you using the "lead in" side of the die to start?....Fred
 
Drill a hole 90 deg. thru a thick steel plate, put the screw shank up thru the hole, put the cutting die over it & start the die on it as you slowly feed the shank thru, keeping the die flat on the plate of steel.. Once ya get it started straight , it will go on straight unless you torque it one way or the other.

Keith Lisle
 
The plate idea will work. I generally try to tap all holes using my drill press or mill as a guide right after I have drilled them. This helps to ensure that everything stays square.
 
In my shop class more than 50 years ago, now, we had to use a tap and die set to thread holes in a small set of parallel clamps we made with hand tools from scratch. Use a Tapered tap to start the threads. The taper helps you center the tap in the hole. The hole should be drilled to Tap size- use a chart to get the correct size. As Keith notes, of you get that tap hole drilled at 90 degrees, the tapered tap will follow at the same angle, unless you horse it. Don't!

The technique you should use with these small taps is to turn the tap so it cuts 1/3 of the circumference. Then stop, and back the tap up 1/8 turn to break lose the chips and push them into the long smooth flutes of the tap, so that they will flow away from the cutting edges of the tap.

The same technique is also used when using a die to thread a piece of round stock.

Use plenty of Tap OIL- it different from other oils, and made specially for this kind of work. Buy it at your hardware store. Remove the tap from any blind hole( Ie. a hole with a bottom) and brush the chips out of the flutes, and the teeth of the tap often. Then, re-oil the tap before running it back down into the threads you have already cut.

I buy two tapered taps for each size, and then grind down one of them to remove the tapered section so I can use it as a " BOTTOMING TAP". IN A BLIND HOLE, once the tapered tap goes to the bottom, I change over to my bottoming tap, and finish cutting the full threads down to the bottom of the hole. Mark the depth of the hole on the tap, so you don't break the tap trying to turn more threads when you have already hit bottom! Taps are very hard, and very sharp, but they are also very brittle. :shocked2: :idunno: :surrender:

Thank you for not asking me how I know about that last piece of advice. :shocked2: :bow: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

Oh, you can order "bottoming taps from suppliers, but the cost is so much higher than that of the tapered taps that it doesn't make a lot of sense to spend your money for them. All you need is a grinder to shorten a tapered tap to make that bottoming tap. Only if you have a long, deep hole to thread and need a long shank on the tap would I ever consider buying a bottoming tap. Even then, it probably would be cheaper to find a friendly welder and just weld a longer rod to the existing shank on an inexpensive tapered tap. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup:

Did I tell you I am basically genetically wired to being "frugal", as my father used to say?? :grin:
 
What Keith said: If you don't have a drill press use an alignment block to keep the drill square.

A fellow named Harry Higley used to sell hardened steel "dies" called "Tap-N-Drill Guides" with assorted holes for freehand drilling. He just sold out to Sullivan, Inc. These are GREAT for wood modelmaking and working in places where you can't get the part out (like boatwork).

higr1515.jpg

http://harryhigley.com/75TapNDrillGuide.htm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL780&P=0
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Alexander L. Johnson said:
The plate idea will work. I generally try to tap all holes using my drill press or mill as a guide right after I have drilled them. This helps to ensure that everything stays square.

Keep in mind he is Cutting Threads ... on a 6-40 Screw, if I understood him correctly. Not drilling and tapping a hole. Thus why I suggested a hole in a plate to stick the screw blank up thru & put the Die flat on the plate & turn the screw into the die to start it straight. :hmm:

You can also tap a hole reversed, using a plate with hole drilled as a guide for the tap to keep it straight.

Keith Lisle
 
Wow. Thanks to ALL who responded. I got it!!

No big deal to all of you, but you're talking REAL amateur here.

Again, thanks to ALL for your help, now when I climb the mountain (Appalachians) behind my house deer hunting, I won't have to pull my rifle along with a drag rope.

------------

Flintlock, round ball and black powder - Life is sweet.

Notice on powder container -"Be certain no embers are smoldering in the barrel before loading", so I ALWAYS blow down the barrel after firing. Its easier than wet swabbing each time.
 

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