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Targets; Opinions wanted

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What do you consider to be best target offered for 100 yd range? I have tired old eyes and bifocals and shooting iron open sights to try and comply with NMLRA rules. At 50 yards the green 5 bull rifle targets almost dissappear so that I have to blacken them in. At 100 yrd The black red bull dirty bird targets are a indistinguishable blurr. I am a cheapskate, so before I run-out and willy-nilly buy a bunch of different styles. What are your go to options.
In 1976 I made this target to sight in at 100 yards. Make a vertical and horizontal line with magic marker or use colored duck tape trimmed to the width of your preference. I still use this style today.
Larry

44" Golden Age barrel, Hadaway flintlock


IMG_1895.JPG
 
What do you consider to be best target offered for 100 yd range? I have tired old eyes and bifocals and shooting iron open sights to try and comply with NMLRA rules. At 50 yards the green 5 bull rifle targets almost dissappear so that I have to blacken them in. At 100 yrd The black red bull dirty bird targets are a indistinguishable blurr. I am a cheapskate, so before I run-out and willy-nilly buy a bunch of different styles. What are your go to options.
All my rifles are sighted for a 6 o'clock hold. That way I can hold just below the black blur where I can see the sights against the white background. Works surprisingly well.
 
I wish I could understand the 6 o'clock hold. It doesn't make sense to me how you can put the black on top of the front sight and always hit the center of the target. How does that work for a 6" round target, or 8", or 16"?
Not unless your target is always the same size and has a standard. Like bullseye shooting at a set distance.

When I'm shooting a round target and I can't actually see the bullseye, I try to split the target in half. That way I know my elevation is at least on the same plane as the bullseye.

If I'm shooting a silhouette it takes me a bit longer to find the ten X.

I just never understood it or had it explained to me to where the light bulb went off.
 
Human eye can only focus on one thing at a time. Young eyes can switch from target to rear sight to front sight fast enough that all three seem to be in focus at the same time, but in truth, they are not. Aging slows down that ability, so we eventually have to conciously switch our focus from one thing to another. Ideally when using open sights, the target and rear sight are blurred as focus should be on the front sight as the trigger is gently pulled rearward.

So ..whatever target is chosen, for best accuracy, the target needs to be as sharp (and simple) as possible. Likewise, the open rear sight must "fit" the front sight to enable the shooter to not only adjust his sight picture vertically but also horizontally. "Ears" - like the common buckhorn sights sport block portions of the target, are distracting, and serve no purpose. Some like a bead front and corresponding round slot in the rear sight. Others prefer a squared front and squared rear sight where, when aligned, everything is in straight lines.

Ideally, the target should be as great a contrast as possible with the sights. Easiest target/sight combination for me is a peep sight with a circular front sight that encircles a round black bullseye. "Shoot 'n See" targets are great as long as the bull is against a white background. The bold vertical/horizontal "cross" is good, as is the "X". Contrast is the key, IMHO.
 
I wish I could understand the 6 o'clock hold. It doesn't make sense to me how you can put the black on top of the front sight and always hit the center of the target. How does that work for a 6" round target, or 8", or 16"?
Not unless your target is always the same size and has a standard. Like bullseye shooting at a set distance.

When I'm shooting a round target and I can't actually see the bullseye, I try to split the target in half. That way I know my elevation is at least on the same plane as the bullseye.

If I'm shooting a silhouette it takes me a bit longer to find the ten X.

I just never understood it or had it explained to me to where the light bulb went off.
I'm not the one to adequately explain the target size limitation, but there has to be one. I've always used a 6 o'clock hold, it's how I was taught as a kid. But most everything I shot at or shoot at with open sights is bird sized, or say a 2-3 inch circle. Now I need something larger to see, at least a 4" square or circle and the 6 o'clock hold isn't working out as well. I hope someone well versed can give us both more information.
 
About 15 yrs.ago , I made a change in targets used at the range. For iron sights , out to 75 yds. , I make a 4" to 6" square of fluorescent orange tape on blank target back. 4" at 25 yds. , and 50 yds. , and 6" at 75 yds. , and 100 yds... Somehow this adjustment has allowed me to see a bullseye good enough to keep shooting. Two yrs.ago , I went to peep sights to enhance the front sight and target to their old sharpness,. I love to shoot , and as long as I can see the center of the paper , I'll try to keep shooting.
 
I wish I could understand the 6 o'clock hold. It doesn't make sense to me how you can put the black on top of the front sight and always hit the center of the target. How does that work for a 6" round target, or 8", or 16"?
Not unless your target is always the same size and has a standard. Like bullseye shooting at a set distance.

I Only shoot club competition, so yes, I'm shooting on known targets at set distance. Another way of explaining it is to say my rifle is sighted to shoot 6 inches high.
 
About 15 yrs.ago , I made a change in targets used at the range. For iron sights , out to 75 yds. , I make a 4" to 6" square of fluorescent orange tape on blank target back. 4" at 25 yds. , and 50 yds. , and 6" at 75 yds. , and 100 yds... Somehow this adjustment has allowed me to see a bullseye good enough to keep shooting. Two yrs.ago , I went to peep sights to enhance the front sight and target to their old sharpness,. I love to shoot , and as long as I can see the center of the paper , I'll try to keep shooting.
I am having trouble with color contrast particularly at 100 yds. I have thought about acquiring the Marble peep sight that attaches in the rear sight grove since my tang and wrist drop aren't really suitable for other peeps. Just more money and time for a maybe possible fix.
 
I am having trouble with color contrast particularly at 100 yds. I have thought about acquiring the Marble peep sight that attaches in the rear sight grove since my tang and wrist drop aren't really suitable for other peeps. Just more money and time for a maybe possible fix.
Depending on where the sun is I have that problem too. I put a tang mount peep on my Renegade and it helped, but I haven't shot it enough to be comfortable with it. And I even bought the little Lyman peep patch that sticks to your shooting glasses. I've used it on several shooting sessions now but I'm always taking it off and repositioning it on my glasses for a more natural line up. Still can't get it to were it feels right, but it does help somewhat.
 
Depending on where the sun is I have that problem too. I put a tang mount peep on my Renegade and it helped, but I haven't shot it enough to be comfortable with it. And I even bought the little Lyman peep patch that sticks to your shooting glasses. I've used it on several shooting sessions now but I'm always taking it off and repositioning it on my glasses for a more natural line up. Still can't get it to were it feels right, but it does help somewhat.
I have looked at stick on's and harbor freight sells monocular lenses that attach to glasses which can be switched out to a peep. I guess I am going to quit being such a tight a** and spend some funds.

I know my eyes aren't good, from the discussion so far everyone has pointed to fixing the issue of sight picture rather than the picture.
 
For many years I've been using 2 & 3 in orange targets on butcher paper (1000' roll lasts decades). Lately the orange was fuzzing out at the edges against the white. I found some contrasting colors in some printer paper I had laying around and now use blue , green, or any color that is dark enough to contrast the orange. I've also filed down front sight beads to just leave a nub above the pedestal (?). On the one rifle that has a black wide post I epoxied a narrow (1.5mm) fiber optic on top and i like it. Nearly all my rifles wear peeps now even though I disliked them when I was younger.
 
TDM.........Because I have never been able to master the 6 o-clock hold , at the range or in the field , to me , the center of the cross hair on a scope , is the top of my front sight. I've , all my life , been able to go to any of my guns , modern or m/l , using that sight point. No guessing , or interpolation necessary. Top of the front sight in the center of the orange 4" square , I will hit the square. Do something for 70+ years , it all becomes second nature , and automatic.
 
TDM.........Because I have never been able to master the 6 o-clock hold , at the range or in the field , to me , the center of the cross hair on a scope , is the top of my front sight. I've , all my life , been able to go to any of my guns , modern or m/l , using that sight point. No guessing , or interpolation necessary. Top of the front sight in the center of the orange 4" square , I will hit the square. Do something for 70+ years , it all becomes second nature , and automatic.


That's how all my guns are sighted in that have blade front sights.
 

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